When was polyester created?

Polyester fabric hasn’t been around forever. Our great-grandparents were clothed in plant- and animal-based materials such as wool, linen, and cotton. By the end of World World II, the latter accounted for over 80% of fibre consumed.

Chemical advances in the 1940s introduced artificial fibres, and so began a gradual shift away from cotton, turning towards cheaper and faster textile production methods. Nowadays, polyester dominates the clothing industry. According to the Textile Exchange Material Market Report 2023, polyester production volumes increased from 61m tonnes in 2021 to 63m tonnes in 2022. Polyester continues to be the most widely produced fibre, making up a staggering 54% of the global market in 2022.  

So what exactly is polyester?

The term “polyester” describes a category of polymers produced by mixing ethylene glycol (derived from petroleum) and terephthalic acid.

Chemical jargon aside, polyester is a common plastic with a wide range of applications extending beyond the fashion industry.

It ranks third behind polyethylene (packaging and water bottles) and polypropylene (ropes, stationary, and modern banknotes) as the most commonly used plastic. In this article, we’re focussing on PET polyester, which is the most commonly used in fashion.

Polyester is not biodegradable

Conventional polyester is not biodegradable, meaning that polyester fabric shirt you bought last season will not decompose for 20 years at best and 200 years at worst.

Despite innovations in the space, polyester fibres as a whole are still not reliably biodegradable outside of a lab setting, and we don’t consider any form of it to be a lower-impact material at this stage.

What’s more, polyester is partially derived from petroleum, and the oil manufacturing industry is the world’s largest pollutant and a key driver of climate change.

Polyester dyes are not lower-impact

Polyester dyes, known as disperse dyes, are insoluble in water. Like polyester, they have a complex molecular structure that doesn’t readily decompose.

Wastewater from textile factories containing leftover dye is difficult to treat, and when it enters the environment, its toxicity causes serious problems to local plant and animal life.

In addition to causing environmental problems, disperse dyes are toxic to humans. Dye workers worldwide report higher incidences of cancers and lung disease than the general population.

Polyester manufacturing is water-thirsty

Polyester is created through an energy-intensive heating process and requires large quantities of water for cooling. If not managed properly, this can result in groundwater levels dropping and a local reduction in access to clean drinking water—particularly in vulnerable communities where polyester is often manufactured.

What about recycled polyester?

Recycled textiles’ market share slightly decreased from around 8.5% in 2021 to 7.9% in 2022, according to the Textile Exchange Material Market Report 2023, and less than 1% of the global fibre market was from pre- and post- consumer recycled textiles in the same year, meaning that textile-to-textile recycling is seriously lagging behind.

In the past few years, the sustainable fashion sphere has been introduced to recycled polyester fibres, which have been touted as a “more sustainable” replacement for virgin polyester fabrics. Recycled PET plastic is usually made from recycled plastic bottles, and while it sounds like a good solution for repurposing plastic waste, it’s not so clearcut just yet. As The Guardian reported, “recycled polyester created through a mechanical process can’t be recycled again and again. This raises some concerns when fast fashion brands increasingly rely on the material. It also likely sustains demand for single-use PET bottles, not something we want to see.” The article goes on to explain that recycled polyester is often still blended with virgin polyester, “furthering the reliance on fossil fuels. And at the end of these garments’ lives, they’re still often destined for the landfill.”

Worth noting is chemical recycling—a burgeoning recycling process that breaks down polyester into its monomer components, thereby creating recycled polyester with the same properties as virgin polyester. However, this kind of recycling is still extremely limited and not likely to be picked up by major fast fashion labels any time soon.

So it’s worth keeping in mind that when fast fashion brands simply replace a small portion of their collection with recycled-PET products, it doesn’t suddenly make them a brand worth supporting, as their impact often remains hugely wasteful across the board. Not to mention that recycled polyester still sheds microplastics.

If you do purchase recycled-PET garments from better brands, be extra careful with fleeces. Studies have shown that plastic microfibres are polluting waterways at an alarming rate and that fleece made from recycled PET plastic may be more polluting than its original form.

More on those microfibres

Multiple studies have shown that synthetic fibres make up a good share of microplastics found in waters and are widely implicated as the source of pollution. It’s been suggested that more than 4,500 fibres can be released per gram of clothing per wash, according to the Plastic Soup Foundation.

Microfibres are so tiny they can easily move through sewage treatment plants. They do not biodegrade and bind with molecules from harmful chemicals found in wastewater. They are then eaten by small fishes and plankton, concentrating toxins and travelling up the food chain until they reach us. The consequences of microfibres on the human body have yet to be researched and revealed. Until then, here are our top tips on dealing with microfibres in clothing.

What can we do to dress more sustainably?

• Look for garments made from lower-impact materials, like organic cotton, hemp, linen, or TENCEL, or from reused, upcycled, and recycled materials and coloured using lower-impact dyes.
• Choose well, buy less. Even garments made with non-synthetic fibres have ethical issues. Cotton is a thirsty fabric, and the wool industry has sometimes been criticised for unethical practices. By choosing well and buying less overall, you help discourage the unsustainable overproduction of fibres, which comes at a cost to the environment and the world’s most vulnerable people and animals.
• Buy from second hand and charity shops. An even better alternative to buying fewer new things is buying more pre-loved garments from second hand stores. Since polyester garments are both common and durable, you will find plenty of options in thrift shops that show few signs of wear and tear and will stand the test of time.
• Wash less and wash better. Solutions to avoid microfibre shedding during washing are appearing, such as special laundry bags and laundry balls. You can also wash on cold, with a fuller load, and using liquid detergent to reduce shedding. And line-drying is always a better option than machine drying for the environment, your clothes, and your power bill.
• Choose brands with policies that protect and respect the planet and the people making their products. Good On You helps you uncover brands that perform better on the issues you care about. Check out the app or directory to discover brands that tick all your boxes.

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What is viscose?

Viscose is often touted as a more sustainable alternative to cotton or polyester and is popular in the fashion industry as a cheaper and more durable alternative to silk. It’s often used to create those drapey summer dresses, skirts, soft blouses, and synthetic velvet. But viscose isn’t just found in our clothes—it’s also used in the manufacturing of upholstery, bedding, and carpets.

A brief history of viscose

Viscose rayon has a truly European story. French scientist and industrialist Hilaire de Chardonnet (1839-1924) is credited with inventing the first commercial viscose fibre, as a cheaper alternative to silk. But the fabric was so flammable it was quickly taken off the market until a safer process was developed by the German Bemberg Company. In 1892, British scientists Charles Frederick Cross, Edward John Bevan, and Clayton Beadle discovered and patented the production process, and by 1905 the first commercial viscose rayon was on the market.

How is viscose made?

Viscose is derived from the cellulose (or, wood pulp) from fast growing, regenerative trees such as eucalyptus, beech, and pine. This cellulose material is dissolved in a chemical solution to produce a pulpy viscous substance, which is then spun into fibres that can then be made into threads.

Another variation of viscose is bamboo viscose, which is  made in the same way using cellulose derived from the bamboo plant.

So, is viscose more sustainable?

As a plant-based fibre, viscose is not inherently toxic or polluting. However, because of the growing fast fashion industry, much of the viscose on the market today is manufactured cheaply using energy, water, and chemically intensive processes that have devastating impacts on workers, local communities, and the environment.

There are two main areas of concern when it comes to the production of viscose: the source of the wood pulp, and how it is turned into a usable fabric.

The wood pulp that viscose is made from is manufactured by treating it with chemicals, which is then filtered and spun into a fine thread. This is a highly polluting process and releases many toxic chemicals into the air and waterways surrounding production plants. Carbon disulphide, one of the chemicals used, is another toxic ingredient which has been linked to higher levels of coronary heart disease, birth defects, skin conditions, and cancer, not just in textile workers, but also in those who live near viscose factories.

In 2017, an investigation was undertaken by the Changing Markets Foundation that linked fashion brands such as Zara, H&M, and Marks & Spencer to highly polluting viscose factories in China, India, and Indonesia. Concerns have also been raised regarding the devastating impact of wood pulp production on forests, people, and vulnerable animal populations.

What’s more, the production of viscose is contributing to the rapid depletion of the world’s forests, which are being cleared to make way for pulpwood plantations. It is estimated that “more than one third of wood fibre [or, wood pulp] used in clothes is still at high risk of coming from Ancient and Endangered Forests”. Not only does this lead to habitat destruction—creating a significant threat to endangered species—but it also often involves human rights abuses and land grabbing from Indigenous communities. Organisations like Canopy work to make sure that viscose is not from high-risk areas.

Though the viscose production process is multifaceted, retailers play a significant role in the problem. Fast-fashion giants are placing pressure on manufacturers to produce and distribute clothes at ever increasing speeds and cheaper costs. This encourages unsustainable social and environmental practices. Big brands have the money and power to step up and encourage more responsible manufacturing, but we are yet to see enough meaningful action. Disappointingly, according to a report by the Changing Markets Foundation, “While viscose suppliers have made considerable strides to eliminate endangered forest fibres from their feedstocks over the years, some 75% of the world’s leading brands have made few to no commitments to sourcing more sustainable viscose.”

Are there better options?

As technology progresses, new materials and processes are created. ECOVERO, produced by Lenzing, is a viscose fibre made using more sustainable wood from controlled sources that are certified in Europe by either the Forest Stewardship Council or the Program for Endorsement of Forest Certification Schemes. When compared with conventional viscose production, ECOVERO manufacture uses 50% less water and has half the carbon emissions. And nearly all of the chemicals used during the fibre’s production are recovered and reused.

TENCEL Lyocell, Modal, and upcycled viscose are more ethical and sustainable alternatives to viscose. They aren’t the only options—just the most widely available at present. As technology improves and there is a demand for more versatile lower-impact fabrics, innovations are emerging all the time. Some materials to keep an eye out for are bamboo Lyocell, REFIBRA, and Eastman Naia (specifically Naia Renew, made from a combination of responsibly sourced wood pulp and acetic acid derived from recycled materials), both of which have been well-rated in our methodology.

Some bonus fibres are Infinna and Circulose—man-made cellulosic fibres that are made using cellulose derived from textile waste materials. There’s also Orange Fiber—a version of TENCEL Lyocell made using cellulose derived from waste orange peel. Note that these newer fibres may not yet be widely commercially available, and may not have been analysed by our methodology, so we cannot guarantee their eco-credentials at this time. However, they are promising developments in viscose and rayon alternatives and are worth looking into over conventional viscose.

According to Textile Exchange, in 2022, just 0.5% of all man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs) produced were created using recycled materials. But the market is seeing increased investment in this area, so with the support of brands we can expect more recycled options to become available in the coming years.

Check out the “Good” and “Great” brands using alternatives to viscose

What else can we do?

Purchase garments made from plant-based, organic, or recycled fibres, such as organic cotton, hemp, and linen, and ensure lower-impact dyes are used. Keep in mind that some “natural” materials such as conventional cotton and wool have their own ethical issues regarding environmental sustainability, labour rights, and animal welfare.

Finally, buy less and buy second hand. Choosing well and buying fewer things is a great way to reduce your impact on the environment. When you do want to add to your wardrobe, buying pre-loved clothes is a great way to build your own unique style that is better for the environment and your bank account.

Learn more about preferred materials

The post Material Guide: What Is Viscose and Is It Sustainable? appeared first on Good On You.

Is the silky alternative to rayon as sustainable as they say?

When producing clothes, the fashion industry uses a wide variety of materials. They can typically be separated into basic categories including plant-based like cotton, synthetic like polyester, animal-derived like silk, or man-made cellulosic fibre like viscose.

Cupro is a man-made cellulosic fibre which is made from cotton linters. Cotton linters are short, downy fibres which are a by-product of the manufacture of cottonseed oil. It’s one of the less well-known man-made cellulosic fibres, as consumers are generally much more familiar with TENCEL and viscose.

But exactly what is cupro fibre? How is it made? And is it a more sustainable and ethical option? Read on to find out.

What is cupro, exactly?

Cupro is a “regenerated cellulose” fibre made from cotton waste. It’s made using the teeny tiny silky cotton fibres, known as linter, that stick out of the cottonseed and are too small to spin. The linter is dissolved into a cuprammonium solution, which is a mixture of copper and ammonium, dropped into caustic soda, then spun into fibre. Much like TENCEL Lyocell and modal, cupro is a plant-based material that is chemically processed to produce the resulting fibre.

Cupro is said to have all the positive qualities of silk: it’s silky-smooth and drapes just like the luxurious material, although unlike silk cupro ignites easily and leaves behind copper-containing residue. First invented in the 1900s in Germany, cupro is now solely manufactured by Asahi Kasei in Japan under the trademark Bemberg. You might also see it called “ammonia silk” and “cuprammonium rayon”.

Is cupro a lower-impact fabric?

There’s no straightforward answer just yet, but you can consider this one to watch.

Cupro is a by-product of cottonseed oil production. We know by now that cotton production is a very wasteful and intensive process—it requires a massive amount of water and pesticides when it’s not organic, and even organic cotton can come with its own sourcing issues. So using every bit of the cotton plant helps reduce waste.

Since cupro is plant-based—unlike silk, which comes from silkworms—it is vegan and cruelty-free. Plus, unlike silk again, it is machine washable, which has a lower impact than the dry cleaning required for delicate silk garments. It is also a lot cheaper to produce and more affordable to purchase.

Production of cupro has undergone a positive transformation in recent years, and now its sole manufacturer employs a closed-loop system: “We strictly control the chemical substances used in the manufacturing process and have introduced a closed-loop production system that recovers and reuses copper and ammonia,” they say.

Being made from a pre-consumer material obtained from the manufacturing process of cottonseed oil, it isn’t clear the conditions in which the cotton was originally farmed and processed, but you can view the partner factories on the Bemberg information website.

One to watch, according to our expert analysts

It’s important to note that Good On You’s methodology does not yet classify cupro as a lower-impact fabric, but the improvements made to the fibre in recent years could see that change in the near future. The fibre is currently being reviewed by our expert analysts now that the manufacturer has disclosed more information relating to the processes behind the fibre and provided some traceability information.

To summarise our current observations, there are pros and cons to consider. The positives of cupro are that it’s made from waste materials, some renewable energy is used in the manufacture of the fibre, and a closed loop system is used for the recovery of chemicals. On the other hand, the water consumption associated with the manufacture of the fibre is unclear, and we need to review a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) before we conclude whether or not to classify it as a lower-impact material.

Other options to consider

While cupro is technically a cruelty-free alternative to silk, since its sustainability isn’t entirely clear yet, there are other vegan silk alternatives out there worth looking into too, like TENCEL Lyocell and recycled satin. If you must buy it, check if the brand shares information about where its cupro is made and how it’s handled. It’s equally important to consider the working conditions and manufacturing when thinking about the sustainability of a fabric. Be sure to choose brands that are transparent about their processes to make the most ethical choice for people, the planet, and animals.

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The great fabric debate

What’s in a label? What do we look for when we’re choosing lower-impact fabrics? Whether you’re a clothes maker or a fashion lover who doesn’t love fashion’s impacts, selecting more responsibly-made fabrics is one area where our choices can have a tangible impact on the wellbeing of people, the planet, and animals.

But there is a lot of debate about which fabrics are better. Does plant-based always equal good and synthetic equal bad? What new and innovative materials are backing up their claims with evidence? And what happens when we wash or dispose of these materials? Let’s find out.

Plant-based fibres

Recycled cotton

Cotton is one of the most common fabrics in the world. This plant-based fibre is light and breathable, which makes it a wardrobe staple. But growing cotton can be problematic: conventional cotton is one of the thirstiest and most chemical-intensive crops to grow. It requires a lot of pesticides and, as a result, harms the planet and the people who grow it.

Organic cotton can be a lower-impact alternative to conventional cotton, and has been booming in recent years. In theory, it aims to minimise the environmental impact of cotton production by trying to remove harmful pesticides and other chemicals from the production process. GOTS certified cotton is often the go-to recommendation for consciously grown cotton that is gentler on the planet and the people who create it. However, organic cotton certification recently came under fire when it was discovered much of the fibre marketed as organic may not be so: according to a report by The New York Times, “at the heart of the problem is an opaque certification system rife with opportunities for fraud.”

If you’re looking for the most responsible cotton, go for recycled. Recycled or upcycled cotton is made using post-industrial and post-consumer cotton waste. According to the Textile Exchange’s Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report 2022, recycled cotton is a lower-impact alternative to both conventional and organic cotton. It has the potential to help reduce water and energy consumption, as well as help keep cotton clothes out of landfills⁠.

Organic hemp

It seems like hemp is everywhere at the moment. Marijuana’s “sober cousin” is extremely versatile: it’s used as a food, a building material, in cosmetics, and it has been cultivated and used for hundreds of years as a fabric.

The great thing about hemp is that it’s grown all around the world, and it requires very little water, no pesticides, and naturally fertilises the soil it grows in⁠—making it much better for the environment than other crops. However, it’s important to be aware that hemp does not always mean organic, and many farmers still use environmentally damaging fertiliser. When going for hemp, make sure it’s organic and thoroughly study the brand you’re considering buying from.

One of the oldest fibres in the world, hemp helps keep you warm in winter, cool in summer, and gets softer the more you wash it, making it a great option for pieces that will stay in your wardrobe rotation for years to come.

Organic linen

Linen is another plant humans have been growing for centuries. Similar to hemp, it’s derived from a very versatile crop: the flax plant. Linen requires minimal water and pesticides, and even grows in poor-quality soil. Plus, every part of the plant is used, so nothing is wasted.

Because of the dense nature of the fibre, to get a pure white linen, it has to go through a heavy bleaching process. Sticking to its natural-toned hues will ensure a more environmentally-friendly garment afterlife.

Linen is strong, naturally moth resistant, and⁠—when untreated⁠—fully biodegradable. In addition to being good for the planet, it is also light and can withstand high temperatures, absorbing moisture without holding bacteria. What’s not to like?

TENCEL Lyocell

TENCEL Lyocell is a man-made cellulosic fibre (MMCF) created by dissolving wood pulp. The fibre is produced by Austrian company Lenzing AG. It’s been growing in popularity recently, and is said to be 50% more absorbent than cotton, and requires less energy and water to produce. Plus, the chemicals used to produce the fibre are managed in a closed-loop system. This means the solvent is recycled which reduces dangerous waste.

There’s another version of the fabric, called Refibra, made from upcycled cotton scraps. The cotton scraps are transformed into cotton pulp, which is then added to conventional dissolving wood pulp.

TENCEL has moisture-wicking and anti-bacterial properties, making it a perfect activewear alternative to pesky polyester.

Animal-derived materials

Recycled wool

Wool is a durable animal-derived fibre known for its longevity, warmth, and comfort. In its original form, wool is a resource-intensive material to produce and has associated ethical concerns.

Recycled wool, like that traditionally processed in Italy by Manteco, reduces the environmental and ethical impacts significantly and, with so much of the fibre already in circulation, is becoming a desired recyclable option.

It’s also diverse and easy to blend with other fibres such as fleece. The industry is beginning to see less demand for virgin wool with the higher value placed on discarded garments or offcuts in the manufacturing process.

Futuristic and innovative fabrics

ECONYL

Another recycled material to consider is ECONYL. This yarn, created by Italian firm Aquafil, is derived from recycled synthetic waste such as industrial plastic, waste fabric, and fishing nets from the ocean. Despite being derived from recycled materials, ECONYL yarn is said to be of the same quality as virgin nylon yarn.

The manufacture of ECONYL uses less water and generates less waste than the manufacture of conventional nylon yarn. In the manufacture of ECONYL, waste is collected, cleaned, and shredded, and then depolymerised to extract a raw material called caprolactam. The caprolactam is then repolymerised and transformed into ECONYL yarn.

A clear downside of ECONYL is—like other synthetics—it emits microfibres. While this means it’s not the best choice for clothing that is frequently machine washed, it can be a practical and lower-impact option for shoes or clothing that is rarely washed or generally handwashed like activewear, swimwear, and outerwear. Pick yourself up a Guppy Bag for when you must machine wash.

Bananatex

Launched in 2018 by Swiss brand QWSTION, Bananatex is the world’s first durable fabric made purely from banana plants. Cultivated in the Philippines through a mix of agriculture and forestry, the banana plant is said to be self-sufficient, and requires no pesticides, fertiliser, or extra water.

In addition to winning a variety of international sustainability awards, such as the Green Product Award 2019 and the German Sustainability Award Design 2021, the Bananatex fabric was certified Cradle to Cradle Gold.

In short, Bananatex has the potential to be a truly circular alternative to synthetic fabrics already on the market, contributing to reforestation in areas once eroded due to monocultural palm plantations while enhancing biodiversity and the economic prosperity of its farmers.

CIRCULOSE

CIRCULOSE is a new material made by recycling cotton from worn-out clothes and production waste.

Made from 100% recycled textiles, like that worn-out pair of jeans at the back of your closet, it is a “dissolving pulp” that can be used to make viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate, and other types of regenerated fibres. These fibres are then spun into yarns, woven or knitted into fabrics, and finally cut and sewn into new high-quality textile products.

By using existing products and materials, CIRCULOSE embodies circular fashion principles and “closing the loop”, a crucial component of a more sustainable fashion industry.

Learn more about lower-impact materials

The post What Are the Best Lower-Impact Fabrics and Fibres on the Market Right Now? appeared first on Good On You.

How sustainable are our clothes?

A lot of a garment’s sustainability comes down to what it is made from. Materials—fabrics—are one of humanity’s oldest technologies, but most of them chew up enormous amounts of resources as they are transformed from “animal, vegetable, or mineral” into the clothes, shoes, and accessories that we wear.

The life cycle of a fabric uses countless resources, from oil, land, and water, to pesticides, chemical agents, and dyes. Just think: how is it possible that fluffy cotton, knobbly wood, and gooey oil end up as the smooth, soft, colourful fabrics that feel good on your skin and brighten up your day? And then there are all the hands that manipulate those fabrics before they end up in yours. No matter where you are on your ethical fashion journey, becoming informed about the impact of what your clothes, shoes, and accessories are made of is a fantastic tool to have in your (responsibly-made) belt.

With new materials going into production all the time, and industry standards shifting for ones that have been around forever, we know it can be overwhelming trying to figure out which ones are up to scratch ethically and are worth investing in as a conscious consumer.

Choose materials based on your values

We appreciate that materials and fibres in fashion is a complex issue. Through our research, we found there is no established hierarchy of sustainability for materials in the fashion industry, and very limited comparable data (eg Life Cycle Analysis). What is clear is that every single material on the market today has some sort of trade off and impact on the planet and a mixture of preferred materials is needed going forward.

At Good On You, we do our best to make sense of the complex materials world by independently analysing the information that is out there and consulting with industry experts. We recognise that the impacts of a given material can vary based on where and how it was produced. We also welcome all the innovation around novel materials. But as always, we are looking for solid science to assess them against all the main areas of environmental impact

Our list of more more responsible materials is not static and is constantly evolving as more research and data comes to light.

We believe that you are the final decision maker when choosing materials for yourself. Figure out what is most important to you and let information guide your process.

Of course, materials are not the only issue a brand should be addressing. For example, a brand using organic cotton but not addressing greenhouse gas emissions in the supply chain, textile waste, or labour rights issues is far from best practice, but using lower-impact materials is a good base upon which to build a responsible brand.

To learn more about our process for ranking brands and materials, be sure to check out our How We Rate page

A note on ‘natural’ fibres

Before we begin, let’s clear up one common misconception. Often, so-called “natural” fibres are neither natural nor necessarily more sustainable. As we’ll learn below, conventional cotton production is one of the most environmentally harmful agricultural activities around. And that’s before we even look at how cotton is transformed into cloth. Be mindful of brands greenwashing by claiming their clothes are “all natural” when that doesn’t necessarily mean they are taking any steps to source fabrics that are made with people, the planet, and animals in mind.

Plant-based

Bamboo

This fast-growing crop is having its time in the limelight as an apparently lower-impact option. While the crop itself is easy to grow, requiring little water and no pesticides, the processes used to turn it into a usable fabric vary on the sustainability front. While mechanically-made “bamboo linen” is inherently more sustainable, the resulting fabric is coarse, unsuitable for the soft, intimate products for which bamboo is most in demand, and not widely available.

Most bamboo fabric on the market is grown and processed in China using the viscose process. Two issues need to be addressed: ensuring the bamboo is grown responsibly and avoiding the release of harmful chemicals used in production into waterways. While in the last few years, the Chinese government has cracked down on the more problematic production processes, we remain concerned about the absence of any system of assurance that specific bamboo is grown more sustainably and processed using safe or unsafe processes. The exception is Monocel, a bamboo fabric made with the lyocell process, but it appears to be very difficult to source at this stage. It is now considered bad practice in the industry not to have robust chemical management and waste treatment, which means bamboo fabric can be likely a safer bet than conventional cotton or polyester.

Our verdict:

Bamboo fabric has a lot of potential as a good option. So as long as the brand is transparent about cultivation and processing, it can be a good choice. Otherwise, consider TENCEL Lyocell, made using a 99% closed-loop system, meaning chemicals are captured and reused.

Cotton

Soft, light, and breathable, cotton is a fibre often associated with quality clothing and can be found in many wardrobe staples such as jeans and t-shirts. It has the advantage of being entirely biodegradable when not blended with synthetic fibres. However, conventional cotton (GMO and otherwise) is an extremely thirsty crop with the highest market share of insecticides measured by sales and is often associated with child slavery and forced labour. The process of turning cotton balls into soft or shiny coloured cloth uses a vast array of chemical processes for treating, dyeing, printing, and finishing.

Organic cotton addresses many of the problems of conventional cotton. It’s grown without the use of pesticides, from seeds that have not been genetically modified. Organic farming practices avoid using harmful chemicals while aiming for environmental sustainability and the use of fewer resources. Chemical-free agricultural land stays fertile much longer than land hampered by the constant use of pesticides, so organic cotton farmers generally have a longer lifespan than otherwise. Organic cotton is overall better than regular cotton for the planet and people, including you.

Our verdict:

Avoid traditionally farmed cotton and opt instead for recycled cotton or organic cotton, specifically with the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification. Not only is it organic, but the GOTS system certifies a brand’s entire supply chain, following its practices—including the dyeing stage—and addresses a range of labour rights issues to be sure high standards of ethics are being maintained throughout the production process.

Note, however, that recent stories have revealed issues with some organic cotton certifications, with “one half and four-fifths of what is being sold as organic cotton from India” not being genuine, according to Crispin Argento in the New York Times. So be careful and check how the organic cotton was certified.

Denim

And what about denim? Denim is made from cotton, which is known to be one of the world’s thirstiest crops. While cotton takes up 2.4% agricultural land, it accounts for more than 11% of global pesticide use. Pesticides can be highly toxic and create a hazardous working environment for cotton farmers. As for “distressed” denim, the look is achieved through a controversial technique called sandblasting. The process poses significant health risks to workers as the fine dust particles can lodge themselves in people’s lungs.

Our verdict:

Denim production can have serious social and environmental consequences. However, this is not the way it has to be. There are more sustainable denim brands, both big and small, that are committed to people and the planet. The best way to reduce the footprint of your denim purchase is to look for jeans made from certified organic cotton, which most brands will proudly promote this on their websites and tags. You can also opt for pre-loved jeans to further reduce the impact of your denim purchase.

Hemp

Hemp, from the cannabis plant, is a type of “bast fibre”, which means it’s one of a number of fibres derived from the stems of plants. It is one of the most sustainable crops that requires little water and no pesticides—however, only organic hemp guarantees that no harsh chemicals are used. The fabric has various intrinsic advantages such as keeping you warm in winter, cool in summer, and even protecting you from UV rays. The fibre produced from pure hemp is similar to linen in texture.

Our verdict: 

Hemp is a far better option than similar fabrics like conventional cotton, and organic hemp is top shelf. To guarantee sustainability, look for GOTS certified options.

Linen

Linen is one of the most biodegradable and stylish fabrics in fashion history. It is strong, naturally moth resistant, and made from flax plant fibres, so it is fully biodegradable when untreated (ie not dyed). Linen can withstand high temperatures, and it absorbs moisture without holding bacteria. In fact, it’s actually stronger when wet than dry and becomes softer and more pliable the more it’s washed.

Our verdict:

Linen is one of the better options on the market—just be sure to purchase garments in its naturally occurring shades of ivory, ecru, tan, and grey, and especially avoid bright white linen, which has to go through an intensive bleaching process. Go for organic linen, one of our top ranked materials, to ensure no harmful chemicals were used in production.

Modal

Modal is a type of man made cellulosic fibre (MMCF) derived from wood pulp, usually from beech trees. Breathable and silky smooth to the touch, Modal is around 50% more water-absorbent per unit volume than cotton. Boasting similar properties to other cellulose fibres like TENCEL Lyocell and viscose, it’s designed to absorb the dye and stay colour-fast when washed in warm water, making it a popular choice in the manufacture of underwear and activewear alike. It is also also technically biodegradable and can be recycled, according to Textile Exchange.

Today, one of the best-known producers of Modal is the Austrian company Lenzing AG, which now markets its version under the name TENCEL Modal (previously Lenzing Modal). TENCEL Modal is protected by a global certification system which is registered worldwide, and while its production process is more sustainable, they do not produce ready-to-wear fabrics. Lenzing sells fibre to mills and others who use the yarns to make fabric and other goods, which means it could be mixed with less responsible fabrics before turning into your next clothing purchase.

Our verdict: 

Be sure to choose brands with transparent production processes to make sure you’re making the most ethical choice. Rest easy if the brand can assure you that their fabric is made from 100% TENCEL Modal.

TENCEL Lyocell

TENCEL is actually a brand name used by the Austrian company Lenzing AG. TENCEL Lyocell is a cellulose fibre that is made by dissolving wood pulp, usually from eucalyptus, oak, and birch trees. After chemical treatment, the lengths of fibre are spun into yarn and woven into a breathable cloth suitable for activewear. Lenzing has built TENCEL’s reputation by sourcing its wood and pulp from certified and controlled sources like responsibly-managed plantations and ensuring TENCEL is made in a closed loop system, meaning that the chemical solvent is recycled time and time again to produce new fibres and minimise harmful waste. Lenzing Group says their lyocell fibre’s solvent recovery rate is 99%. Recently Lenzing has started using their TENCEL brand to apply to their modal fibre as well (see Modal above).

In recent years, TENCEL has developed its Refibra technology, which allows the company to create a variant of TENCEL Lyocell. The raw material used in the manufacture of TENCEL Lyocell with Refibra technology is 70% wood pulp, and 30% cellulose derived from pre-consumer and post-consumer cotton scraps which would otherwise be sent to landfills or incinerated.

Our verdict: 

TENCEL Lyocell is a good replacement for cotton or silk in everything from shirts to underwear. It’s breathable, absorbs moisture, and is soft on the skin. It’s also technically biodegradeable and can be recycled. While it is pricier than your average workout tank top, something we always try to prioritise at Good On You is quality over quantity. Opt for TENCEL over viscose and rayon, which are typically less sustainable.

Viscose/Rayon

Viscose is both derived from the “cellulose” or wood pulp from fast growing, regenerative trees such as eucalyptus, beech, and pine, and sometimes plants such as bamboo, soy, and sugar cane. This cellulose material is dissolved in a chemical solution to produce a pulpy viscous substance, which is then spun into fibres that can then be made into threads. Despite being a plant-based fibre, there are two big problems with viscose. First, it’s the third most popular clothing material after polyester and cotton, and second, the fast fashion boom means there is as much wood pulp used for viscose manufacture as for creating paper, and so it’s now one of the leading causes of deforestation in places like Indonesia, Canada, and the Amazon. What’s more, viscose production leads to untreated waste being dumped into lakes and waterways causing harm to lives and livelihoods.

Some viscose is made from more sustainable forest products—look out for brands that use only FSC certified forest inputs or work with the Canopy NGO. Note that while FSC only looks at the management of the world’s forests, a huge amount of hazardous chemicals can still be used in production. ECOVERO is another type of viscose, which is made using wood from controlled sources

Alternatives to viscose include TENCEL Lyocell (closed loop capture of chemicals).

Our verdict:

You might want to check out Circulose, a pulp derived from textile waste that can be used as an alternative to wood pulp in manufacturing viscose. Using a breakthrough process powered by 100% renewable energy, the company transforms discarded textiles into new material that needs no cotton fields, no oil, and no trees.

And if a brand isn’t upfront about the eco status of their viscose, give it a miss.

Cupro

Cupro is a “regenerated cellulose” fabric made from cotton waste. It is made using the teeny tiny silky cotton fibres, known as linter, that stick out of the cottonseed and are too small to spin. The linter is dissolved into a cuprammonium solution, which is a mixture of copper and ammonium, dropped into caustic soda, then spun into fibre. Much like Tencel and Modal, cupro is man made cellulosic fibre.

Our verdict:

The positives of cupro are that it’s made from waste materials, some renewable energy is used in the manufacture of the fibre, and a closed loop system is used for the recovery of chemicals. On the other hand, the water consumption associated with the manufacture of the fibre is unclear, and we need to review a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) before we conclude whether or not to classify it as a lower-impact material. Good On You’s methodology does not yet classify cupro as a lower-impact fabric, but the improvements made to the fibre in recent years could see that change in the near future.

Animal-derived

Angora

Angora is a long, silky fibre obtained from one of the four breeds of angora rabbit. The fur is highly prized for its softness, warmth, and strength. It is often blended with other wools to add softness to things like jumpers and scarves. The production of angora has come under fire since PETA released information about the appalling conditions in which it was being produced in several Chinese factories. As a result, many major fashion labels ceased using the controversial fibre.

Our verdict:

There is no recognised welfare standard for harvesting angora hair that ensures a pain-free experience for the rabbits, so we recommend avoiding angora products entirely.

Cashmere

Cashmere is one of the rarest and most luxurious fibres in the world. This exceptionally silky material is said to be three times as warm as wool and is known to be long-lasting. However, cashmere is not as sustainable as you might think: the goats this fabric comes from being the first to pay the price of cheap cashmere production. As they have very little fat, shearing them too early mid-winter means they can freeze to death. Cashmere production can also have a social impact—there’s growing concern about the working conditions of cashmere goat herders.

The increased demand for cashmere has meant herd sizes have increased, driving the desertification of Mongolian grasslands. And climate change is exacerbating these impacts: the changes in temperature in Mongolia has meant poor quality cashmere as goats need to be sheared in a narrow range of temperatures.

Our verdict:

Buy recycled or second hand cashmere if you must have it.

Fur

Traditionally, fur was worn as a source of warmth and protection. For centuries, animals were killed for meat, with their pelts providing a practical and durable material that would keep people safe from the elements. In the 20th century, fur became a regular feature of luxury fashion when Hollywood stars appeared draped in exotic pelts. Since then, fur has been marketed as a measure of wealth and glamour—expensive and desirable. As fur’s popularity grew, fur farming became big business. At the same time, the animals involved became commodified—opening the door to inhumane practices, like being skinned alive. For many of us, wearing fur is simply cruel and to be avoided at all costs. Campaign groups such as PETA have long highlighted the inhumane practices of fur farms. That isn’t to mention all the environmental and labour issues fur-farming has, many the same as leather.

While second hand fur is available, it still perpetuates the idea that it is okay to wear the bodies of our fellow earthlings. Numerous brands and countries have banned the farming and distribution of fur products, so don’t stay stuck in the past on this one.

Importantly, for some remote indigenous populations, animal skins and furs are one of the only sources of income available to help their communities thrive. Putting indigenous practices under the microscope while ignoring cattle farming in the West is inconsistent at best and likely has roots in racist and colonial thinking.

Our verdict: 

An ethical consumer motivated by the interests of animals would avoid any new product made from fur.  At Good On You, we take a zero-tolerance approach to brands that use fur or other non-domesticated animals.

Leather

From James Dean to Prada, punk to professional, leather has earned staple status in many wardrobes. But despite their longevity and versatility, leather garments and accessories are unlikely to be an ethical investment. Leather is the skin of animals, the most common being livestock, but it can also be sourced from pigs, goats, sheep, crocodiles, snakes, sting rays, seals, emus, deer, fish, kangaroos, horses, cats, and dogs. Aside from the obvious issues with animal welfare, leather production has negative impacts on the environment and workers, too. It requires more water and land than almost any other material, and the tanning process involves extremely harmful chemicals like chromium 6 that end up in waterways and labourers’ bodies.

Vegetable tanning, which has long been considered “the sustainable option for tanning”, is under scrutiny about how sustainable it really is. It’s a bit better, but likely not as good as previously thought.

There are many innovative materials emerging designed to mimic the qualities of leather, from pineapple leather to cork to upcycled rubber. While the full environmental impact of these new materials has not been fully assessed, they are certainly preferable to “faux leather” made from PVC, or likely the more common vegan or “faux” leather made from polyurethane (PU). While PU has significant environmental impact, it’s a better option than other synthetics like PVC, and has a lower impact than animal leather in production.

Our verdict: 

Depending on your personal ethics, go for second hand or recycled leather or avoid it altogether.

Silk

Silk is spun from the long threads that make up a silkworm’s inner cocoon. The fibres are in fact saliva, produced by the worm to insulate itself until it is time to transform. The raw silk threads are harvested and then reeled together for commercial use. The silkworms are killed during the process of extracting the silk. There have also been reports of the abuse of child slaves in India in silk production, so checking sources is important.

It is possible to find less lethal alternatives to the silk-making process. Ahimsa silk, also known as “peace silk”, allows the moth to evacuate the cocoon before it is boiled. Some silks that fall under the Ahimsa umbrella include “Eri silk” and “Tussar silk”. Unfortunately, peace silk isn’t necessarily much better for the environment.

For those who want to avoid animal silk for its negative impacts, one vegan silk innovation that is worth looking out for is vegan spider silk. Microsilk is the trademarked name of a lab-made spider silk produced by California-based company Bolt Threads. It is a synthetic fabric, but one which requires no land or chemicals to produce—only water, yeast, sugar, and a pinch of DNA.

Our verdict: 

When it comes to buying silk or its alternatives, check sources to ensure that you don’t buy into exploitation or environmental destruction.

Currently, Microsilk is only commercialised to a limited extent, but the fabric has already received a stamp of approval from renowned brands like Stella McCartney.

Wool

Wool, a breathable fibre that comes from sheep, is a renewable resource with benefits like stain resistance and, in some cases, biodegradability. However, the impact of wool production on the planet and animals is significant. There is controversy over the practice of mulesing the sheep (cutting away skin to reduce flystrike, usually done without anaesthetic). We recommend against purchasing wool from mulesed sheep for this reason. Industrial scale livestock grazing can also increase land clearing and degradation, and though more holistic land management methods for grazing livestock animals are gaining popularity and support, they aren’t yet widely practiced. Wool that is “superwashed” (aka infused with plastic) or blended with synthetic fabrics also loses its biodegradability.

Wool does last well, and so it’s always worth looking out for pre-loved or vintage wool items to ensure the garment gets a longer, useful life.

Our verdict:

Look for clothes made from recycled wool, or resale and vintage items. Wool certified by the Responsible Wool Standard, ZQ Merino Standard, or the Soil Association Organic Standards can be a decent option, baring in mind the welfare guarantees for the animals differ.

Down

It can be easy to forget that people wear down feathers at all as it’s hidden inside our clothes. Sadly, like fur and leather, the down industry is a slaughter industry.

Down comes from live plucking of ducks and geese, who sometimes have their feathers plucked out of their bodies while fully conscious. Their feathers are then sold, and when their new feathers grow back, they’re plucked again.

Not only does down production harm ducks and geese themselves, but the planet is also impacted. While down may be biodegradable, feathers are always kept inside of jackets and coats, and normally, this outer shell is not made from a biodegradable material. Even if a puffer jacket is made from recycled polyester, making it slightly more sustainable, this synthetic acts as a barrier between the outside world and the down—meaning it won’t be able to effectively biodegrade.

Our verdict:

All down comes from ducks and geese who have been slaughtered or plucked alive. Unfortunately, there is no getting around that. Even when considering certifications like the Responsible Down Standard, birds live in factory farms up until they are killed far short of their natural lifespan and often face all sorts of harm until then.

Opt for pre-loved down coats or seek out a more ethical alternative like PrimaLoft P.U.R.E, PrimaLoft Bio, Thermore, or Flowerdown.

Synthetic

Faux fur

The significant ethical and environmental impacts of the fur industry have caused a shift in the industry towards fur-free, which is great news. But the look of fur is still, unfortunately, in vogue, and the mass-produced faux fur alternative is far from conscious. Faux fur is generally made from plastic-based materials (hello, microfibres), and that automatically speaks to negative impacts on the planet, but even more shockingly, it has come out that since fur is in such high demand, a significant amount of faux fur products actually contain animal fur.

Our verdict:

Steer clear of this harmful material. If you must have it, look out for second hand options, but seriously consider a completely different material—you don’t have to buy real or faux fur to make a bold statement with your outfit.

Glitter

Much of the glitter available for cosmetics, craft, and clothing is made from sheets of thin plastic such as PET, coated in a shiny substance like aluminium, and cut into millions of tiny pieces—in other words, glitter is microplastic. That means every time we rinse our glitter-laced clothes, wash our glitter adorned hair and face, or let our glitter-encrusted accessories shed little pieces of sparkle, we’re likely contributing to microplastic pollution in our oceans, and that’s bad news for everyone.

But glitter fans, don’t fret. Several companies have created more responsible glitter alternatives made from biodegradable materials, so you don’t have to give up sparkles if you care about the planet.

Our verdict:

Avoid plastic glitter in all products. Look for products with glitter made from biodegradable sources.

Conventional nylon

Nylon was the first entirely synthetic fibre, created in the time of World War II. Essentially, nylon starts as a type of plastic derived from coal and crude oil that is then put through an intensive chemical process to create the strong, stretchy fibres that make it so useful as a fabric. In addition to supporting some of the world’s dirtiest industries, the manufacture of nylon has several other direct environmental impacts that means it’s bad news across the board.

ECONYL is an innovative alternative made from recycled plastic in a closed loop system. Note that products made from nylon and ECONYL are both likely to shed microfibres.

ECONYL, created by Italian firm Aquafil, uses synthetic waste such as industrial plastic, waste fabric, and fishing nets from oceans, then recycles and regenerates them into a new nylon yarn that is exactly the same quality as virgin nylon. This regeneration system focuses on six steps that form a closed loop that uses less water and creates less waste than traditional nylon production methods. Waste is collected, cleaned and shredded, depolymerised to extract nylon, polymerised, transformed into yarn, and re-commercialised into textile products.

Our verdict:

Avoid traditional nylon and instead go for ECONYL while remaining vigilant about microfibre shedding.

While ECONYL is a fantastic innovation that is helping to clear plastic waste from our oceans and protect sea life, it’s still a plastic fabric that sheds microfibres when washed (one of the biggest water pollutants). Although washing is not the only way microfibres can be shed, we recommend choosing ECONYL items that are less frequently washed like footwear, and make sure to use a washbag or washing machine filter if you buy clothing made from this (and other plastic-based) material. Companies are in the process of creating a form of ECONYL that doesn’t shed, so keep your eyes peeled for that.

Conventional polyester

Polyester is a common plastic derived from petroleum with a wide application that includes and extends beyond the fashion industry. It’s the most used fibre in the world, with polyethylene terephthalate (PET) being the most commonly used variety of polyester in clothing. The majority of polyesters are not biodegradable, meaning that the polyester fabric shirt you bought last season will not decompose for 20 years at best and 200 years at worst, depending on conditions. What’s more, polyester is partly derived from petroleum—and the oil manufacturing industry is the world’s largest polluter.

In the past few years, the sustainable fashion sphere has been introduced to recycled PET. Recycled PET is usually made from recycled plastic bottles. Buying recycled PET means you’re minimising waste and cutting out the fossil fuel industry, but it doesn’t erase the issue of microplastic pollution.

Our verdict: 

Avoid virgin polyester. Consider buying recycled PET products that don’t require frequent machine washing like shoes.

Fleece

Fleece is a synthetic insulating fabric made from a type of polyester called polyethylene terephthalate (PET), derived from petrochemicals or other synthetic fibres. It is very comfortable due to its lightweight and anti-perspiration qualities, making it ideal for outdoor and activewear. Unfortunately, fleece is made from non-renewable resources and needs an extra chemical coating to make it windproof and/or water resistant—not great for the environment. Eco-fleece, which is made from recycled polyester, can be seen as a better option since recycled polyester is derived from waste materials such as post-consumer recycled plastic bottles.

Synthetic fibres, recycled or not, pose a problem as they are not biodegradable and tend to bind with molecules of harmful chemical pollutants found in wastewater, such as pesticides.

Fleece, especially when it is used in frequently washed clothing, is one of the main shedders of microfibres on the market. If you opt for eco-fleece, you should learn how to care for it so minimal shedding occurs.

Our verdict:

As far as possible steer clear of fleece.

PVC

PVC is a petrochemical product that is heavily processed from start to finish and can take an enormous variety of forms. Vinyon, as the textile derivative of PVC, is popular for its weather-resistant qualities in coats, jackets, and even skiing equipment, artificial leathers, or fetish fashion. PVC/Vinyon requires oil to extract the base components and lots of energy to react the chemicals together, and that means it’s hugely reliant on fossil fuels. Couple that with the potential health risks of phthalates, and the overwhelming pressure of plastic waste on our oceans, and you have yourself one of the most unsustainable materials on the market.

Our verdict:

For a more sustainable wardrobe, avoid PVC.

Velvet

The word “velvet” refers to the structure of the fabric, not the actual fibre or material used. You can recognise velvet thanks to its short pile, raised loops, tufts of yarn that cover its surface. Velvet can be woven from any type of yarn. While in the past it was traditionally woven from silk, today cheaper materials are commonly used alone or in combination, such as cotton, linen, wool, or synthetic fibres. The fashion industry, and especially fast fashion retailers, mostly replace silk or other plant-based materials with polyester.

Our verdict: 

If you really want a velvet item in your wardrobe, we recommend shopping second hand, in order not to increase the use of new plastics or silk. Alternatively, try and look for velvet made out of a modal rayon which is made from more sustainably harvested beech trees and better processing methods.

Rubber

Rubber is a strong, elasticky, and super stretchy material that can either be natural or synthetic. It can be soft or hard, and this versatility means it can be used in a wide variety of items.

Natural rubber is made using latex, the runny, milky-white sap that oozes from certain plants and trees when you cut into them. But because we can’t produce enough natural rubber to meet our needs, we also make synthetic rubber, which is made with chemicals. The most well-known synthetic rubbers are neoprene (the material used in most wetsuits) and emulsion styrene-butadiene rubber (E-SBR), used for making tyres.

Our verdict:

Overall, new rubber, even when natural, isn’t the most sustainable or ethical material, but we are seeing some progress. If you’re interested in buying an item that contains rubber, we recommend checking where the material comes from and if it is fairly and responsibly sourced. Recycled rubber is also an excellent, more sustainable option.

Once your item has reached the end of its life, check with your local waste processing facilities to see if they will accept it for further recycling.

Acetate

Acetate is a human-made, semi-synthetic material derived from cellulose. Because of its silk-like qualities, it’s used as a fibre to make wedding or graduation gowns, lining, curtains, or furnishing. And because it can soften when heated and return to a hardened state when cooled, acetate can also be used to make accessories like jewellery, glasses, and sunglasses. Acetate has gained popularity in recent years, being touted as a more responsible alternative to plastic to produce eyewear.

Our verdict:

Be wary when buying items made from acetate. At Good On You, we don’t treat acetate as a sustainable material—”It’s better than virgin plastics, but it’s more like choosing the better of two evils,” says our Head of Ratings, Kristian Hardiman.

If you do opt for acetate, good terms to look out for are “bio-acetate” or “bio-plastic”, which generally mean a higher percentage of the material is made from plants, increasing the chance of biodegradability.

You should also pick a high-quality, long-lasting, and timeless product, as the best thing you can do with acetate is keep it in circulation for as long as possible. Finally, double-check the wood pulp comes from responsible sources like FSC or PEFC-certified plantations and is produced in a regulated environment

Other

Deadstock

Deadstock means any leftover fabric that can’t be used for its original purpose or order fulfilment anymore, so the sustainability of the fabric itself comes down to what it is, from viscose to cotton and beyond. It might come from brands who ordered too much fabric, mills producing incorrect colours or damaged or flawed fabric, or cancelled orders.

Deadstock can often be a more sustainable option than virgin materials, but the answer to the question of whether it’s sustainable across the board isn’t a simple yes or no. In fact, the very existence of deadstock is a symptom of a much deeper-rooted problem in fashion relating to purposeful overproduction of fabric.

Our verdict:

In our current system and until the issue is addressed at an industry level, supporting otherwise ethical brands that use quality leftover fabric in their designs is a good option. That is, as long as they implement other meaningful waste-reduction and climate change-fighting strategies into their business and don’t attribute the use of deadstock as their leading sustainability initiative. If they do, chances are there’s a bit of greenwashing going on—intentionally or not.

The post What Are You Wearing? The Ultimate Clothing Material Guide appeared first on Good On You.

Many brands use modal in their products as a lower-impact alternative to viscose due to its specific characteristics—but its sustainability status is complicated. Read on as we answer the question: how ethical and sustainable is modal?

What is modal and how is it made?

Modal is a man-made cellulosic fibre that has found fame in the age of activewear. Breathable and absorbent, this cotton alternative is used to manufacture underwear, pyjamas, bathrobes, bed sheets, and more.

The manufacturing process involves spinning reconstituted cellulose mainly from beech trees. The wood fibres are pulped into liquid form and then forced through tiny holes, creating the thread. The resulting fibres are then spun into yarns—sometimes in blends with other fibres such as cotton or elastane. These yarns can then be woven or knitted into fabric.

Modal is the generic name for a variant of viscose (viscose aka rayon—here’s our take on the sustainability of viscose). Essentially, modal goes through an additional process that makes it somewhat stronger than traditional viscose. Breathable and silky smooth to the touch—and with impressive resistance to shrinkage and pilling—modal is around 50% more water-absorbent per unit volume than cotton. Boasting similar properties to other cellulose fibres, it’s designed to absorb the dye and stay colour-fast when washed in warm water, making it a popular choice for garments that sit close to the skin. Some modal is still made in Japan, where it was originally developed in 1951, but the vast majority is now produced in China.

How does modal impact the environment?

Modal is not inherently sustainable or environmentally-friendly, but it can be a lower-impact fibre under certain circumstances. It is also technically biodegradable and can be recycled. According to the Sewport guide on modal, “It is up to individual manufacturers to follow the manufacturing processes that will result in environmentally-friendly fabrics.” So, what issues does modal production face?

There are two main environmental issues to be aware of when it comes to modal. As modal is created from tree fibres, consumers should be aware of both the trees’ source and the effects of processing them into fibre.

Forest destruction

As with viscose, sourcing wood to turn into modal risks the destruction of native forest. Although, as garment production platform Sewport says, many manufacturers “only use cellulose from trees that have been grown on land that is not suitable for any other agricultural purposes” or use more sustainable types of wood like bamboo. But where the trees come from is essential, and according to Textile Exchange, without responsible forestry, man made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs) like modal cannot be deemed sustainable.

For example, in 2020, the Rainforest Action Network alleged less reputable manufacturers of forest destruction in Indonesia. According to sustainable fashion commentator Summer Edwards, “Modal that has been produced in Indonesia is known to be manufactured with plantation woodstock that is grown in areas of rainforest that have been clear-felled to make way for monocrop timber plantations”.

Harmful chemicals

The second issue is the chemicals. During the production of viscose fabrics, concentrations of caustic soda are used to dissolve and purify the cellulose. This step, called “xanthation”, uses the infamous neurotoxin carbon disulphide, which can then be introduced into the environment through the air or contaminated water. Not only does this harm any animals who come in contact with it, but it’s also devastating for the people who make the clothes, who can experience serious medical problems from liver damage, to blindness—even death.

Thankfully, modal manufacturing is slightly lower-impact than viscose, as it uses less chemicals in its production process. Many rayon manufacturers have also started to use chemical scrubbers or machines to trap the chemicals before they make their way into the ecosystem, further reducing harm.

However, while conventional modal didn’t make the cut in the top three tiers of our internal fabric ranking because of these contentious issues, not all hope is lost. One version of modal is ranked “third best”, putting it ahead of the most damaging fabrics like polyester and conventional cotton.

Better modal

For modal to be better, we want to be assured it was sourced from renewable forests and that the chemical processing was done at the highest standards, including minimising chemical emissions to air or water.

Today, one of the best-known producers of modal is the Austrian company Lenzing AG, which now markets its version under the name TENCEL Modal (previously Lenzing Modal). Note that “tencel” is often used to mean TENCEL Lyocell (a more sustainable alternative we talk about below), but that brands saying TENCEL could now refer to the Lyocell or Modal fabric, so it’s worth clarifying.

TENCEL Modal is protected by a global certification system. Lenzing has developed environmental processes for manufacturing its modal, which are not currently commercially available to others. These less toxic technologies allow Lenzing to have high recovery rates of process ingredients, minimising emissions and conserving resources.

The trademarked TENCEL Modal is harvested from PEFC or, less commonly, FSC more sustainably-managed beech tree plantations in Austria and surrounding European countries. Other modal fibres on the market are often less transparent and may not be harvested from renewable sources.

The environmental footprint of TENCEL Modal is lower than other forms of modal—it has reduced carbon emissions, requires less land per tonne than cotton fibres, and has a water consumption level that’s 10-20 times less than that of cotton. Many brands, therefore, see TENCEL Modal as a good lower-impact choice for their garments.

The catch

However, a key factor in all of this is that Lenzing does not produce ready to wear fabrics. Instead, the company sells yarns to mills and manufacturers who, in turn, make fabrics. The environmental impact involved in weaving fibres into fabrics can be significant, with conventional methods using high levels of water and chemicals.

As a consumer, it’s hard to know where the modal used in your clothes comes from unless the brand is transparent. Be sure to look out for Lenzing and TENCEL branding in the product descriptions when shopping for modal clothes.

Recent innovations

In February 2021, Lenzing unveiled pioneering TENCEL Modal fibre with Indigo technology to help elevate sustainability in the denim industry. Lenzing has partnered with leading supply chain partners, including denim mill Candiani Denim, a client of our friends over at Eco-Age. The new TENCEL branded modal fibre with Indigo technology uses a one-step spin-dyeing process to deliver indigo colour while using substantially fewer resources and was awarded the EU Ecolabel for meeting high environmental standards.

According to Textile Exchange, the market is also seeing increased investment in recycled man made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs), and with the support of brands, we can expect more recycled options to become available in the coming years.

How does modal compare to other semi-synthetic cellulosic fibres?

Due to its properties and smooth handfeel, modal is often compared to viscose and lyocell.

Although the production for modal and viscose are similar, modal fibres are much stronger and more durable (especially when wet), but also lighter and more breathable. Conventional modal is somewhat less harmful than viscose as it produces fewer chemical emissions; as noted above, TENCEL Modal is better again as the fibre sources come from more sustainably-managed forests, and far less chemicals are emitted. But it’s far from the least harmful material going.

Of all man-made cellulosic fibres, we consider lyocell–particularly Lenzing’s TENCEL Lyocell–to be the most environmentally-friendly. Indeed, we classify TENCEL Lyocell as a second-tier or “good choice” fabric.

TENCEL Lyocell is made using an organic solution that replaces the sodium hydroxide used in modal production. It also uses a closed-loop solvent system, which means that no solvent is wasted or dumped into the ecosystem. As with modal, it is also technically biodegradable and can be recycled.

In summary

It is essential to consider both the source materials and fibre processing, and the weaving, cutting, and transportation process when thinking about the sustainability of a fabric. In addition, different countries and manufacturers apply different environmental standards.

Be sure to choose brands with transparent production processes to ensure you’re making the most ethical choice. We recommend assuming that modal is only a little more sustainable than viscose unless the brand is clear that it is TENCEL Modal or specifies both that the source fibre comes from PEFC or FSC certified forests and that it is processed in a high quality facility with high environmental standards, including the capture of a high percentage of chemicals in the processing stages.

Here are some “Good” and “Great” rated brands using more sustainably-produced modal.

The post Material Guide: What Is Modal? And Is It Sustainable? appeared first on Good On You.

TENCEL is a popular fabric of choice for more conscious clothing brands. It’s light and versatile, and used in everything from casual wear to underwear to activewear. But what impact does it have on people, the planet, and animals? Is TENCEL ethical and sustainable? We’ve put together a cheatsheet to help demystify this fabric and put the power back in your hands.

What is TENCEL?

In a world facing environmental catastrophe, consumers are catching onto the fact that their choices must extend beyond style and comfort. More sustainable fashion has emerged as a powerful way to reduce our ecological footprint and promote more ethical practices within the industry. While navigating the water of responsible fashion, you might have noticed one material continuing to crop up: TENCEL Lyocell. This versatile fabric has captured the attention of more environmentally-conscious brands and consumers alike. Below, we delve into the intricacies of TENCEL Lyocell, exploring its sustainability claims, impact on our planet, and the factors that make it an attractive option for those seeking more eco-friendly wardrobe choices.

Note that the TENCEL brand name is owned by the Austrian company Lenzing AG. The company provides two types of fibres under the TENCEL brand—TENCEL Lyocell and TENCEL Modal. In this article we’ll be putting the spotlight on TENCEL Lyocell.

How is TENCEL made?

TENCEL Lyocell is a man-made cellulosic fibre, similar to viscose and modal. To make TENCEL Lyocell, wood pulp is dissolved in a solvent, and this mixture is pushed through a spinneret (a device which looks similar to a shower head) to form fibre strands in a solvent spinning process. The resulting fibres can then be spun into yarns, and later woven or knitted to make cloth. Sounds simple enough—but what kind of environmental footprint does this process have?

So how does TENCEL impact the environment?

TENCEL Lyocell is better for the environment than other similar fabrics, but not as low-impact as top-tier fabrics like organic linen or recycled cotton.

In production, TENCEL requires less energy and water than conventional cotton. As a plant-derived fibre, TENCEL is also biodegradable, but check that it isn’t mixed with other synthetic fibres like nylon when it comes time to dispose of the garment. Although like most materials, it is often coloured with harmful conventional dyes, TENCEL requires a lot less dye than cotton. It is also pure white when produced, so no bleaching is necessary and undyed is always an option.

Another version of TENCEL incorporates REFIBRA technology, which uses a mix of wood pulp and cotton pulp as a raw material. The cotton pulp is derived from recycled cotton scraps, further reducing environmental impact.

TENCEL v traditional viscose/rayon

There are two main ways TENCEL Lyocell differs from most other fabrics made from wood fibre.

First, at the chemical treatment stage. The traditional viscose process is chemically-intensive, using harmful sodium hydroxide. TENCEL replaces it with the NMMO process. The solution of N-Methylmorpholine N-oxide is more easily recoverable, and a closed-loop solvent system means almost no solvent is dumped into the ecosystem. Instead, it is recycled time and time again to produce new fibres and minimise harmful waste. Lenzing AG says the solvent recovery rate for their version is an impressive 99%, and it also recycles the process water.

Second, TENCEL is made from responsibly-sourced wood, while around 30% of rayon and viscose used in fashion is made from pulp sourced from endangered and ancient forests. Lenzing AG states it sources from more sustainably-managed PEFC or  FSC tree plantations. This is good news, considering concerns about the increasing impact of viscose production on deforestation.

Other sources of lyocell

Lyocell fabric is also manufactured by a company called Birla, under the name Birla Excel. In 2017, the Rainforest Alliance assessed Birla Excel as at low risk of sourcing products from ancient or endangered forests or other controversial sources. Birla also claims to recover over 90% of chemicals used in Excel production. This is an industry-leading result, so clothing made from Birla-sourced lyocell is another good option.

As versatile as it gets

TENCEL fabric is extremely versatile. Depending on the length of the fibre chosen in production, varying thickness and texture can result. From a cottony feel to a silky one, the fabric adapts to a wide range of clothing types, from activewear to flowy dresses. casual wear and intimate apparel.

According to Lenzing, TENCEL has incredible absorption characteristics: 50% more than cotton. Because it’s more breathable and less susceptible to odorous bacteria growth like environmentally-damaging synthetics, this fabric is ideal for activewear. So if exercising is part of your daily routine, consider investing in high quality, durable garments that are good for your skin, such as those made from TENCEL. Perfect for a sweaty gym or hot yoga session.

Worth the investment

While it’s true that TENCEL garments may come with a slightly higher price tag than conventional fabrics, it’s essential to view this investment through a long-term lens. The added cost reflects a commitment to quality, durability, and sustainability. TENCEL Lyocell’s inherent resilience ensures that your clothing will withstand the test of time, reducing the need for frequent replacements. Moreover, the lower environmental impact of TENCEL’s production and its biodegradability contribute to a more responsible fashion ecosystem. By choosing TENCEL, you’re not just purchasing a piece of clothing; you’re making a contribution to a greener future and redefining the value of your fashion choices.

Caring for your TENCEL garments

Caring for your TENCEL garments properly is essential to help them last as long as possible. Fortunately, keeping TENCEL in top notch condition is relatively simple. Follow these guidelines to ensure your clothing stays in great shape:

• Washing: machine wash your TENCEL garments on a gentle cycle using cold water. Use a mild, more eco-friendly detergent to minimise environmental impact. Avoid harsh detergents and bleaches, as they can damage the fabric’s integrity.
• Drying: opt for air-drying whenever possible. If using a dryer, select a low heat setting to prevent excessive shrinkage or damage to the fibres.
• Ironing: use a low-heat iron setting for TENCEL clothing. If your iron has a steam setting, that can help remove wrinkles effectively.
• Storage: hang TENCEL garments to allow them to breathe and prevent creasing. Avoid direct sunlight, which can cause colours to fade over time.

Here are some ‘Good’ and ‘Great’ rated brands that use TENCEL

The post Material Guide: What Is TENCEL Lyocell? And Is It Sustainable? appeared first on Good On You.

What is bamboo fabric?

This fast growing grass has made its mark as an “eco-crop”. From construction to homewares to fabrics, bamboo is having its moment in the limelight. But given that some claims associated with bamboo have been disputed, such as its sustainability, UV protection, and antibacterial properties, is it really the miracle crop many are claiming it to be? Is bamboo fabric sustainable?

Growing the bamboo

It starts out looking good. Bamboo can be a easily sustained and maintained: a fast-growing grass, it requires no fertiliser and self-regenerates from its own roots, so it doesn’t need to be replanted. When compared to cotton cultivation, which requires large amounts of water, pesticides, and labour, the advantages are pretty clear.

But before you run off to restock your wardrobe, there are a few things to consider. For starters, although bamboo is fast-growing and requires no pesticides, that doesn’t mean that it is being grown responsibly. The majority of bamboo is grown in China, and there is limited information regarding how intensively bamboo is being harvested, or what sort of land clearing might be underway in order to make way for the bamboo. Also, although bamboo doesn’t need pesticides, there is no guarantee that they are not being used to maximise outputs. However, in the last few years the Chinese government has cracked down on these more intensive processes and it is now considered extremely bad practice in the industry, which is great progress.

Creating the fabric

Okay, you think, so bamboo might have some issues, but it still uses way less chemicals, and is better than cotton, right? While this is almost certainly true for the cultivation phase, the same can’t necessarily be said about the manufacturing process.

There are several ways to turn bamboo into a fabric. The first process involves combing out the bamboo fibres and spinning these into thread. This results in a slightly coarse fabric that is usually called “bamboo linen”. Creating this “linen” is labour intensive and expensive and the result isn’t suitable for the soft, intimate products for which bamboo is most in demand.

The second and much more popular method is the process used to make the silky soft bamboo fabric you find in sheets, underwear, and more. This “bamboo rayon” is produced through a highly intensive chemical process, similar to the process used to turn wood chips into rayon. This is where the sustainability of bamboo gets a little… prickly. Rayon is essentially a raw material converted through a chemical process. The source of the cellulose can be cotton, wood, and yep, bamboo.

Bamboo rayon is most commonly made through what is known as the viscose process, which involves dissolving cellulose material (in this case, bamboo) in a chemical solution to produce a pulpy viscous substance. This is then pushed through a spinneret, and “spun” into the fibres that can then be made into threads and fabrics. The chemicals used in this process like caustic soda and carbon disulfide are highly toxic and a risk to human health. About 50% of hazardous waste from rayon production (including the bamboo variety) cannot be recaptured and reused, but that doesn’t mean they are being dumped directly into the environment. Thankfully, wet processors in the last three years have been made to revamp their practices and there has been a great deal of improvement in chemical management and waste treatment.

The resulting bamboo viscose fabric is highly breathable, and much stretchier than cotton, making it perfect for garments that sit close to the skin like underwear and socks. It’s also easy to weave into fabrics with high thread counts to create a thin yet strong material suitable for a wide range of uses, from dresses to sheets.

As a side note, sadly there is no conclusive evidence that many of the claimed qualities of bamboo, such as its antibacterial properties or UV resistance, are still present in the fibre after it has been put through such an intensive process.

It’s worth considering a similar fibre called lyocell (also known by the brand name TENCEL Lyocell) which uses a closed-loop process to recapture and reuse 99% of the chemical solution. TENCEL Lyocell is often made from more sustainably farmed eucalyptus trees, and the fabric was awarded the “European Award for the Environment” by the European Union. The lyocell process can also be used to create fabric from bamboo, and this fabric is usually called bamboo lyocell, so look out for this label on clothes, though very few brands are using it at this stage. Boody is one top rated brand using such a fabric. It is worth noting that while the industry is pushing for lower-impact options like TENCEL Lyocell and bamboo lyocell, they still only make up a small portion of the fabric available on the market, so realistically we should be continuing to work with the viscose industry to improve standard practices since the chances are it will never be replaced completely.

So is bamboo fabric sustainable or not?

Bamboo itself can be a highly sustainable crop, if grown under the right conditions. While most bamboo fabrics on the market are a form of rayon where the manufacturing process is intensive and involves harmful chemicals, recent years have seen an improvement in how these chemicals are managed, which is a step in the right direction. Bamboo fabrics are certainly a step up from polyester and conventional cotton, so as long as the brand is transparent about its origins, it can be a safe bet as a more sustainable option for garments.

While bamboo lyocell is likely a better alternative, it’s harder to find. For some types of clothing, look for lower-impact fabrics like organic hemp. In other cases, organic cotton or TENCEL Lyocell will be a better choice from the point of view of the environment, all other things being equal, especially the fabric dyeing process.

It’s important for shopper to know that the majority of products labelled as “bamboo” are actually rayon, involve intensive chemical emissions, and likely without the same beneficial properties as the unprocessed bamboo plant. And as Sewport explains, “Since bamboo fabric made with the viscose rayon process is transformed into a semi-synthetic substance, it is impossible for this substance to be considered organic. Be wary of companies that claim to offer organic bamboo rayon.”

But bamboo fabric has potential—it can be much less costly to produce than cotton, can avoid the extensive use of pesticides found in non-organic cotton production, and production can be far less chemically intensive than polyester. Buying from responsible and transparent brands can also help to mitigate some of this risk.

There’s a lot of work being done to develop and make widely available cost-effective and environmentally-responsible ways of creating the soft and silky bamboo fabrics that we’re dreaming of, so it’s one to keep an eye on.

Learn about more lower-impact materials

The post Material Guide: Is Bamboo Fabric a More Sustainable Option for Fashion? appeared first on Good On You.

Why avoid animal-derived materials in the first place?

When many of us think of animal-derived materials, we think of natural materials. Across the United States and Australia, most consumers believe that “natural” materials come from nature without harm to nature, but unfortunately this isn’t always true, and it’s certainly not the case for animal-derived materials.

Not only are materials like leather and wool often highly processed (standard chromium and formaldehyde tanning renders the former non-biodegradable, while wool scouring often results in massive amounts of water pollution), raising animals as commodities is inherently inefficient, harming the planet.

Enormous, potent methane emissions are associated with raising cows and sheep in fashion supply chains, while factory farming ducks and geese for down results in phosphorus emissions that can devastate surrounding aquatic ecosystems. All of these animals require more land to feed on (whether directly, or when soy meal is produced for factory farms) than would be needed to simply grow plants for eating and wearing, instead.

And of course, when we talk about animal-derived materials, we can’t forget to talk about animals themselves. Cows get excited when they learn new things, sheep recognise different emotions on the faces of their friends, and young ducklings show abstract thought. In the ways that matter most, humans and our fellow animals are the same: capable of thought and feelings, undoubtedly able to feel pain and seeking to avoid it. And yet, animal-derived materials exist by transforming individuals into objects through cruelty and ultimately, killing.

Plastic fashion isn’t the answer

Opting out of a long held societal belief that animal-derived materials are necessary and desirable helps the planet and all those living on it. But unfortunately, many of the widely available alternatives to these materials are made from fossil fuels. PVC and polyurethane synthetic leather, acrylic knitwear, and polyester jacket filling—they’re all plastic.

While it’s worth being aware that producing some synthetic materials actually has significantly smaller climate and other environmental impacts compared to materials like leather and wool, “less bad for the planet” is not the same as “good for the planet”.

Synthetic material production relies on the continued extraction of fossil fuels, something that we must move beyond in order to protect our planet. Did you know that fashion’s annual use of oil to make synthetic fabrics exceeds that of all of Spain?

Additionally, synthetic fibres don’t biodegrade (nor do natural fibres which have been processed or dyed with non-biodegradable substances) and if you put an acrylic or other synthetic sweater in the washing machine, it will shed synthetic microfibres that will flow into our waterways, contributing to the pollution of the ocean and life within it.

Moving past false dichotomies

Fashion can do better than both of these material types. While plenty of articles push clickbaity headlines debating whether animal or synthetic materials are better, we actually don’t need to choose either of them.

Fortunately, there are solutions out there, and a growing number of them. While your most sustainable option will always be wearing and caring for what you have, as well as shopping pre-loved, new and innovative materials offer exciting opportunities for better choices, too.

Plastic-free leather alternatives

Here are three of our favourite animal-free and plastic-free, “next-gen” leather materials:

MIRUM

This material is made from all natural inputs like rice hulls, coconut husks, charcoal, clay, latex rubber, plant-based oils, and waxes. Certified as made from 100% bio-content, MIRUM has a far smaller climate impact than both animal and synthetic leather alike, according to an early life cycle assessment.

Excitingly, when this material is no longer in use, it can be recycled into new MIRUM material, or it can eventually biodegrade.

Cork

Not all futuristic materials are made with new technology: sometimes we only need to look to nature to find fashionable solutions. When cork trees, or quercus suber, are harvested of their outer bark, it actually helps the tree to absorb and securely store more carbon from our atmosphere, rather than hurting them.

Cork is naturally water resistant, and when backed onto a material like cotton, can be used as a great leather alternative, able to be dyed and embossed into a range of finishes.

Washable paper

Another solution found amongst trees is washable paper. So long as this material is sourced with a certification that ensures no old-growth or native forest logging, this is a great option. Fast growing tree plantations can produce materials efficiently on a relatively small amount of land, and washable paper is water resistant, tear resistant, as well as nice to look at.

Some start-ups, like Biophilica, are further improving this material solution. The company’s material, Treekind, is a wood-based material made only from discarded and already dead wood. It is compostable at its end-of-life, too.

Plastic-free wool alternatives

If you’re worried that you won’t be warm without wool, let us tell you a little secret: according to fashion academic Dr Rebecca Van Amber, a big part of what keeps us warm isn’t what fibre we wear, but how thick and tightly knit that fabric is, so that wind and cold aren’t getting through.

When we’re seeking plastic and wool-free winter materials, here’s what we look out for:

TENCEL Lyocell

TENCEL Lyocell is a material made from wood cellulose, which means it starts out as a (responsibly-grown and harvested) eucalyptus tree. While some cellulosic materials are polluting, this one is made in a closed-loop, so solvents are recycled and reused, not released.

TENCEL Lyocell has similar thermo-regulation and moisture-wicking properties as wool, with a far smaller land footprint (helping protect biodiversity), and no associated animal cruelty or methane emissions. An even better version to look out for is TENCEL Lyocell with REFIBRA technology which is  made from a mix of wood pulp and textile waste as opposed to 100% wood pulp.

Hemp

You can’t go wrong with this classic, especially if it’s grown organically. Hemp gets softer and softer the more you wash it, while remaining hardy and long-lasting. This plant can be grown with minimal water and land, and when blended with responsibly-sourced cotton, it’s super soft, like wool.

Responsibly-sourced cotton

This category can include recycled cotton, cotton grown with more holistic management practices and that’s rain-fed, as well as certified organic (and Fairtrade) cotton. The beautiful cotton plant seems as though it were designed for wearing, transforming from fluffy bolls into fabric ready to be cosy in.

Keep in mind the stats on water consumption associated with cotton production vary widely, so while sticking to these more responsibly-sourced versions of cotton may improve sustainability in some regards, it is still up to your values and discretion when choosing brands to support.

Plastic-free down alternatives

Avoiding live-plucking, the feathers of slaughtered birds, and plastic alike might feel like a challenge, but it’s only getting easier. While companies like PrimaLoft offer commercially biodegradable synthetic, as well as totally recycled options, there’s one alternative that reigns supreme.

Flower down (FLWRDWN)

Created by PANGAIA, which has also made puffer jackets and a vest from the good stuff, this material is made from wildflowers which are made into a bio-polymer, thanks to an aerogel that is derived mostly from recycled paper. Life cycle assessment shows reduced global warming potential and energy demand to make this material, instead of a synthetic jacket filling.

This material does make use of a bio-polymer, which is a kind of plant-based plastic, but it’s totally biodegradable, insulating, and water repellent.

Kapok

Although not yet widely used, Kapok—a natural fluffy fibre that comes from the kapok seed pod—is being used more and more as a down alternative in things like pillows. Biodegradable and compostable, this filling is often used as a more health- and planet-friendly alternative to feathers and is worth keeping an eye out for in future.

The post A Guide to Plastic-Free Alternatives to Animal-Derived Materials appeared first on Good On You.

Linen is the luxurious fabric you want to wear every time summer rolls around, or spread across your bed year-round. But the big question remains: how sustainable is linen? Rest assured, we have some interesting news for #linenlovers. This is one lower-impact fabric it’s well worth investing in from your bed to your closet.

Linen lovers unite

Linen is one of the most biodegradable and stylish fabrics in fashion history. It’s strong, quick-drying, naturally moth resistant, and made from flax plant fibres, so when untreated (ie not dyed) it is fully biodegradable. Its naturally-occurring colours include ivory, ecru, tan, and grey.

Linen can withstand high temperatures—making the fabric ideal for raiding the jungle or lounging on a tropical island. It also absorbs moisture without holding bacteria. In fact, it is actually stronger when wet than dry and becomes softer and more pliable the more it is washed. It basically ages like a fine wine.

But what exactly is linen fabric, how is it made, and is it a more sustainable option than other materials in fashion? Let’s take a look.

Linen is older than you think

All the characteristics of linen have lead many European cultures to form traditions of handing down linen bed sheets as heirlooms. Unlike cotton, linen that’s been well cared for can last for up to three decades. It’s one of the oldest fibres known, dating back at least 36,000 years. The Egyptians used it as currency, and it formed an integral part of the mummifying process. At one point it was even used in a form of battle armour called Linothorax.

Linen is used in a variety of ways, its sturdiness making it ideal for upholstery and industrial products. Curtains, tablecloths, bed sheets, and tea towels are all common linen items found in the home. Linen has also been used as canvas for oil paintings, by artisan bakers, and even as part of the material that makes up the American dollar bill. In contrast, linen can also be woven to a soft and breezy finish, making it ideal for your summer wardrobe.

These days, linen is mostly produced in China for clothing and in the US for homewares, however, as Sewport highlights, “the production of high-quality linen products remains an important part of the cultures of many European countries, and Ireland, Italy, and Belgium remain significant linen producers.”

How is linen fabric made?

Linen is made from the inner stalk fibres of the flax plant—yes, that very same flax you might sprinkle on your breakfast. According to Sewport, the plant goes through nine stages—from planting through to drying—before it becomes the yarn that turns into the breezy fabric we know and love. It is quite a laborious and time-intensive processes, hence the higher price tag.

Is linen a lower-impact option?

Like every material, linen production has good and bad points for both workers and the environment. Here are some of the most important points to consider when deciding whether linen is a fabric you want to invest in.

The pros

Flax is extremely versatile. Every part of the flax plant has traditionally been used to create a worthwhile product—nothing is wasted, and production is cost effective. A common by-product of flax is linseed oil, which is great for wood preservation, especially in varnishes, and flaxseed oil is also rich in omega-3.

Flax is resilient and can grow in poor soil, using far less water in its consumption than cotton. According to the European Confederation of Linen and Hemp, “Across its lifecycle, a linen shirt uses 6.4 litres of water” compared to thousands of litres for a cotton shirt.

The United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation state that flax uses 13 times less pesticides than potatoes, but is only approximately 1% of the world’s apparel fibre consumption. But why is this the case?

The Truth About Thread Count explains:

Because of the laborious time it takes to produce linen yarn, and the manual processes that have to be undertaken, linen has become a higher-priced commodity and considered among many to be a ‘luxury’ fabric.

The cons

The area of most concern both for the surrounding environment and its human population is the chemical-driven retting process. Alkali or oxalic acid are normally used, which are toxic in relatively low concentrations. This can be avoided entirely if manufacturers opt for water retting instead, a common feature of certified organic linen. This process is much less cost-effective, however, hence the higher price point on organic garments.

In addition, because of the dense nature of the fibre, to get a pure white linen, it has to go through a heavy bleaching process. Sticking to its natural-toned hues will ensure a more environmentally-friendly garment afterlife. Dyes can also be problematic: if you buy non-organic linen, there is no guarantee that no harmful dyes have been used.

Although linen doesn’t technically need much fertiliser or pesticides, that doesn’t mean they’re never used. In fact, most non-organic flax is grown using nitrates. Excess nitrates can get into water streams and harm our ecosystems. On the pesticides front, linen usually needs less than other crops, but again, unless the linen brand or product is certified organic (the good news is that the Global Organic Textile Standard also applies to linen), there’s no guarantee no harmful pesticides have been used.

Finally, we have to acknowledge that while linen (especially organic linen) may be environmentally sound, forced and underpaid labour is still extremely common for the millions of garment workers around the world, so unless a brand specifies that they pay living wages or have other labour rights initiatives in place, there’s no guarantee the hands that planted, grew, harvested, processed, spun, and sewed the linen fibres were treated right.

Linen in daily use

Linen can become crinkled easily. Sometimes all you have to do is look at it, and it crinkles. Ironing vigilance is necessary unless you decide to embrace the rumpled look with blasé confidence, which can also work. However, you should be aware that a constant creasing in the same areas can lead to tearing in the material, and colour fading.

As a luxurious fabric, linen is also typically more expensive than comparable fabrics like cotton. However, investing in a high-quality linen garment that has been made to stand the test of time means that the cost-per-wear will be greatly reduced, so it just means a higher up-front cost which may or may not work for everyone.

In short, if you want to invest in the best lower-impact linen, look for organic certifications or for brands that trace the product all the way back to the crop, be prepared to fork out a little extra cash for your items, and learn to care for your linen to get the most of out of it for many seasons to come.

Overall, linen is a winner

Linen gets our vote because it’s durable, can be made more sustainably than most other materials, and—bonus—it makes you feel like you’re on a yacht in the Mediterranean when you’re wearing it. In our Ultimate Material Guide, we rank organic linen at the top with “Your best bets”, and even regular linen gets a spot in our list of “Third bests”.

Linen is one of the least environmentally damaging textiles. “Unlike synthetic textiles, natural fabrics like linen are biodegradable, which means that their constituent molecules reabsorb into the surrounding environment within a matter of years instead of centuries,” explains Sewport. “Natural fibres also don’t contribute to the ongoing micro[plastic] pollution crisis in the hydrosphere, which threatens aquatic and human life.”

Time to invest in some linen?

These brands have some great linen lines worth checking out.

The post Material Guide: How Sustainable Is Linen? appeared first on Good On You.

Plastic in your wardrobe

PVC. It’s that hard plastic piping you can see under your kitchen sink, right? What’s it got to do with sustainable fashion?

The first thing to know about PVC, or polyvinyl chloride, is that it’s everywhere, in and around our homes, cars, and wardrobes. It can be manufactured as a hard material or a flexible fabric, sometimes known as Vinyon in the US. You’ll most likely find it in a faux leather coat. But given that it’s another form of plastic, how sustainable is PVC for your wardrobe? Let’s break it down.

What is PVC, and how is it made?

PVC is made by reacting chlorine, carbon, and ethylene (a petrol product) together to create a compound called Vinyl Chloride Monomer, or VCM. The VCM then undergoes a process called polymerisation, which results in a base PVC. The base PVC looks like a white powder or pellet, which is then ready for one of a suite of additives that transform the material into its desired shape and texture, ie underground pipe, window frames, pencil cases, or clothing.

Transforming base PVC into clothing requires plasticisers, usually phthalates, which are clear, oily liquids that help the plastic go soft and flexible enough to simulate a textile.

Quite simply, PVC is a petrochemical product that is heavily processed from start to finish and can take many forms. Vinyon, as the textile derivative of PVC, is popular for its weather-resistant qualities in coats, jackets, skiing equipment, artificial leathers, or fetish fashion.

So what are the environmental and ethical costs?

Whether you’re a savvy conscious shopper or new to the movement, you likely have an inkling that any fibre made with petrochemicals is generally an unsustainable choice. You’d likely find PVC or Vinyon at the lowest tier of any materials index if they get a mention at all—the (now obsolete) Made-By Benchmark for Fibres doesn’t even list PVC or Vinyon in their matrix of assessable fibres.

PVC requires oil to extract the base components and lots of energy to react the chemicals together. That means it’s hugely reliant on fossil fuels—which we as a society are desperately trying to turn our backs on. Couple that with the potential health risks of phthalates and the overwhelming pressure of plastic waste on our oceans, and you have one of the most unsustainable materials on the market.

There are also ethical concerns. While the use of PVC and other leather alternatives prevents direct harm to animals, explains Sewport, animal life is ironically harmed by the steady accumulation of this non-biodegradable material in the world’s ecosystems. This harm extends to humans, who are ingesting plastic through food and other sources in the form of microplastics.

The bottom line is, for a more sustainable and ethical wardrobe, avoid PVC.

What are the alternatives to PVC?

Recycled PU

While similar to PVC in composition, PU is less harmful in production since it doesn’t release toxic substances and dioxins during use or disposal. But while it is technically a better option than PVC, virgin PU is far from perfect. Luckily, it can be made from recycled sources, which assists with waste reduction and making use of already available resources, so it’s a decent alternative—especially for garments that don’t require much laundering to mitigate microplastic release.

Natural rubber or latex

Believe it or not, natural rubber or latex (as opposed to synthetic rubber) used to be the go-to material before PVC came along. Natural rubber comes from trees found mainly in parts of South America, Africa, and South East Asia. Rubber trees are “tapped” to extract the milky-white latex fluid and left to repair over a period of months or years. Natural rubber is free from the chemical load of PVC and performs just as well, especially for water-resistant applications. Just be aware that natural rubber can be linked to deforestation, so look for products that uphold responsible production processes.

MIRUM®

An exciting new material on the market is MIRUM®. Completely plastic-free and certified as 100% bio-content through the USDA bio-preferred program, it is made from a combination of plants and minerals. The resulting material is adaptable and suitable for use in footwear, fashion, automotive, accessories, upholstery, and more.

Cork

It may come as a surprise to learn that cork is an alternative material increasing in popularity thanks to its leather-like properties. This sturdy and waterproof leather alternative is renewable, completely recyclable, and easy to keep looking good as new. Cork oak trees are harvested for their bark each decade, but the trees continue to live and grow, going on to produce more cork, so it’s a more sustainable option for people, the planet, and animals.

Learn about more innovative leather alternatives

The post Material Guide: How Sustainable is PVC? appeared first on Good On You.

Hemp fabric has undergone an image transformation in recent years, as shoppers and brands alike are learning of its versatility, strength, and potential sustainability. 

Hemp on the high ground

Hemp is the sober cousin of marijuana, and industrial hemp contains only a tiny amount of the psychoactive component of cannabis, so the only high you’ll get from hemp fabric is the moral high-ground you’ll stand on knowing you’re wearing a  more sustainable fabric.

In fact, industrial hemp is the fashion equivalent of the boring sibling who wants to stay home every weekend and knit socks for fun. But despite its boring properties, hemp’s association with cannabis has copped it a bad rep over the years.

It also doesn’t help that hemp clothing has been historically associated with baggy grunge-style clothing in khaki hues. Not that there’s anything wrong with hippy clothing if that’s the goal, but the trend certainly hasn’t done much to improve hemp’s image among the general populace.

But hemp has started to redeem its image in recent years, and its potential is undeniable. The environmental benefits of hemp cultivation, combined with its durable characteristics as a fabric, mean it can feature in clothing that both feels and looks great, by even the highest of standards.

So what is hemp?

Hemp has a very long history of being used as a fibre. In fact, it has been cultivated for thousands of years and on almost every continent. It has been used in clothing, ropes, and sails. Rumour has it that the word “canvas” is derived from “cannabis”.

Hemp is a type of bast fibre which means it’s one of a number of plant-based fibres derived from the stems of plants such as flax (where linen comes from), jute, and stinging nettle. The fabric has various natural advantages such as keeping you warm in winter, cool in summer, and even protecting you from UV rays.

The fibre produced from pure hemp is similar to linen in texture. It can also be blended with other plant-based fibres to create fabrics with the durability of hemp and the softness of cotton or bamboo. Extremely versatile, materials produced from hemp fibres can be used for a variety of fabrics, “from jersey to denim to hessian to canvas”, according to Textile Exchange.

But why all the fuss about the little green leaf? Is it really any different to its alternatives?

What makes hemp fabric a more sustainable option?

It’s no coincidence that hemp bears the nickname weed. A densely and quickly growing plant, hemp literally chokes out any competing plants. This means harsh chemical herbicides aren’t necessary. Hemp also naturally reduces pests, so no pesticides are usually needed. Amazingly, it also returns 60-70% of the nutrients it takes from the soil. As Textile Exchange points out, since hemp plants have deep root systems, soil quality is replenished, which in turn captures carbon from the atmosphere.

Not only is hemp gentle on the earth, it also requires very little water, especially when compared to cotton, which, according to Slate uses “about 50% more water per season than hemp.” But that’s not all. According to the same article, “when you add processing into the equation, cotton uses more than four times as much water as hemp.”

Hemp also requires a relatively small amount of land to cultivate. According to the Guide to Sustainable Textiles, this means it can produce up to double the fibre yield per hectare than cotton. It also makes a great addition to crop rotations throughout the year for farmers.

However, it’s important to be aware that hemp does not always mean organic, and many farmers still use environmentally damaging fertiliser. When going for hemp, make sure it’s organic and thoroughly study the brand you’re considering buying from.

So from an environmental perspective, the benefits of hemp are pretty clear. But how does it compare once we start processing the raw product into a fabric?

How is hemp turned into a fabric?

Hemp fabric is made from the long strands of fibre that make up the stalk of the plant. These fibres are separated from the bark through a process called “retting.”  These fibres are then spun together to produce a continuous thread that can be woven into a fabric. The processing methods for hemp were originally developed in the early 1900s, and are only now being updated and expanded to meet rising demand.

The various stages of the process can be done organically through a mechanical process that requires no chemicals. However, many companies now produce hemp fabric chemically, in a process that is much more intensive on the environment, but faster and cheaper to create. Often you can tell that a hemp fabric has gone through this intensive process if it is labelled as “hemp viscose”, which normally involves the same harmful processing with toxic chemicals as regular viscose. Some companies may use the less impactful lyocell process, so it is worth double checking before purchasing something made of hemp.

Cost of production is another factor to consider, says Textile Exchange. Since hemp is bulky, transporting it to processing centres can be “expensive and energy-intensive”. Shorter, localised supply chains are one possible solution here.

The impact of the fabric doesn’t just stop once it has been woven, either. Once the fabric has been created, it may be dyed, which again can result in various environmental outcomes, depending on the technique used.

So the production phase is a bit less clear-cut. Although hemp is a more eco-friendly crop to grow, we still need to be sure that the process being used to turn the plant into a fabric is lower-impact. Producers have a responsibility to ensure their manufacturing process considers the environment, workers, and consumers, along with profitability.

So, what’s the verdict?

The good news is that hemp generally constitutes a more sustainable, lower-impact crop that can be converted into fabric responsibly. It’s important to make sure, however, that companies are not just greenwashing their hemp. Wondering where to start looking?

Check out these brands using hemp, rated “Good” or “Great” in the Good On You directory:

The post Material Guide: How Sustainable Is Hemp Fabric? appeared first on Good On You.

Leather alternatives that are worth checking out

There’s no denying that leather is a classic, durable material. For thousands of years, humans have benefited from animal hide as a by-product of hunting, using it for clothing, shelter, and tools. These days, in the era of factory farming and mass production, leather is considered a profitable co-product, which comes with its own set of ethical issues. And for consumers who are concerned about the impact of their fabric choices on animals, workers, and the environment, leather can be a questionable investment.

The good news is that innovators the world over are developing alternatives to be as hardy as leather, and that address the welfare issues associated with animal-derived hides.

The industry is constantly evolving, and there are many exciting materials to discover, but it is important to keep in mind that few of them have been widely adopted by the industry at the time of writing. Not only does this indicate challenges in a broad mindset change from fashion’s biggest brands, but in the industry’s trust that these new materials can truly rival traditional leather’s characteristics and, crucially, its durability—after all, if a brand is designing for longevity, it must be confident that the materials involved will stand the test of time.

Plastic and leather alternatives

Another important aspect of leather alternatives to consider is that many of them, including some of the materials in this article, still rely on some element of plastic or fossil-fuel-derived materials for durability. This is often in the form of a coating or bonding that strengthens the material or adds a quality, such as water-resistance, or a finish, such as a metallic sheen. And while the use of plastics in this space might not be to the same levels as traditional PVC leather alternatives, it still means that microplastics could be released into the environment, and that the material won’t be easily recyclable or biodegradable—if at all.

In some leather alternatives, bio-based plastics are used. This plastic is made using biological resources (in other words, not fossil fuels), but it doesn’t mean they’re biodegradable, as the resources have still been processed into a plastic material.

It can also be tricky to determine whether plastic is used in the manufacture of leather alternatives, but looking at the fibre content and the manufacturing process, if that information is available, can be really helpful.

A note on choosing materials based on your values

The use of plastic in many leather alternatives raises another question—is it better to avoid plastic-based leather or to avoid animal-derived leather?

Materials and fibres in fashion are a complex issue, and through our research, we found there is no established hierarchy of sustainability for materials in the fashion industry, and very limited comparable data (eg Life Cycle Analysis). What is clear is that every single material on the market today has some sort of trade-off and impact on the planet, and a mixture of preferred materials is needed going forward.

At Good On You, we do our best to make sense of the complex materials world by independently analysing the information that is out there and consulting with industry experts. We recognise that the impacts of a given material can vary based on where and how it was produced. We also welcome all the innovation around novel materials. But as always, we are looking for solid science to assess them against all the main areas of environmental impact

Our list of lower-impact materials is constantly evolving as more research and data comes to light.

We believe that you are the final decision maker when choosing materials for yourself. Figure out what is most important to you and let information guide your process.

Of course, materials are not the only issue a brand should be addressing. For example, a brand using vegan materials but not addressing greenhouse gas emissions in the supply chain, hazardous chemicals in dyeing, textile waste, or labour rights issues is far from best practice, but using more sustainable materials is a good base upon which to build a responsible brand.

Piñatex

Piñatex is a leather alternative made from pineapple leaf fibres. This innovative material manufactured by Ananas Anam, featured in Vogue, is taking the fashion world by storm.

The material is made by sun-drying long fibres derived from banana leaves, and then felting them together with a corn-based polylactic acid (PLA) to create Piñafelt—a base material. After that, special finishes are applied to the Piñafelt to achieve the range of commercial materials in Ananas Anam’s collection, including Piñatex. Not only is it a plant-based and more responsible material, but it also supports local farming communities by providing extra income from something that was previously discarded as waste.

Piñatex is not 100% biodegradable, however. According to Ananas Anam, the PLA used in the substrate/base material Piñafelt is only biodegradable under controlled industry conditions as it is formed of 20% PLA (the other 80% is banana leaf fibres), while Piñatex itself is coated by a REACH-compliant water-based polyurethane (PU) resin. “We have optimised the maximum amount of bio-based PU we can use while still ensuring longevity to our materials,” explains the company.

The fashion industry has shown a good level of interest in Piñatex, with the likes of Mashu (“Good”), NAE (“Good”), and H&M (“Not Good Enough”) choosing the material for their designs, but more is needed for Piñatex to gain momentum.

Mirum

Natural Fibre Welding (NFW), the company behind Mirum, describes it as the world’s first plastic-free leather alternative. Made from responsibly sourced natural rubber, plant-based oil, natural pigments, and minerals, Mirum has been developed as an adaptable material that can be customised in its colour, texture, finish, and thickness thanks to plant-based inputs. Mirum is “created using NFW’s patented plant-based curative – the first bioneutral alternative to petrochemical-based systems.”

Among those investing in the material are Pangaia (“Good”), Stella McCartney (“Good”), and Allbirds (“It’s a Start”), and back in September 2023, NFW agreed a partnership with industrial technology company IPCO to help scale up its Mirum production. Could this be the non-fossil fuel leather alternative the industry has been waiting for?

Bio-Tex

Another promising vegan leather alternative is Modern Meadow’s Bio-Tex using Bio Alloy technology, which is produced through a unique fermentation process using natural materials like sugar and yeast. This cutting-edge bio-based material has a soft, luxurious texture that rivals traditional leather. According to Modern Meadow, greenhouse gas emissions from producing Bio-Tex could be reduced by 91% compared to traditional chrome-tanned leather.

Like most materials on this list, Bio-Tex has been used in a small number of products, including by Everlane (“It’s a Start”). Most recently, Tory Burch (“We Avoid”) used it in a handbag design.

Desserto

Adriano Di Marti Company’s cactus leather, Desserto is another exciting vegan leather alternative. This material is made from the prickly pear cactus, which is abundant in Mexico and other parts of the world, and has a “water-efficient metabolism” that limits the amount of excess water needed to cultivate it.

The Desserto production process does not require harmful chemicals or excessive water usage thanks to local rainwater at the company’s ranch in Mexico’s Zacatecas state. Desserto can be used for everything from trainers to watch straps and wallets, and has seen good uptake across the fashion industry with the likes of Balenciaga (“It’s a Start”), Hublot (“Not Good Enough”), Onitsuka Tiger (“Not Good Enough”), and more applying the material in their designs.

In a February 2023 article, The Guardian reported that in 2021 the FILK Freiberg Institute investigated leather alternatives and found “the presence of chemicals and plastics in a range of leather alternatives suggested Desserto does contain PU, and found five restricted chemical substances in the sample tested”. The brand responded saying it was due to cross-contamination.

Malai

Made from agricultural waste from Southern India’s coconut industry, Malai material resembles real leather, but its maker notes that it shouldn’t be considered an animal leather imitation, since it has different properties.

Malai’s manufacture uses wastewater from coconut processing (which would otherwise be dumped into the environment, causing pollution) to feed bacterial culture in a fermentation process. After 12-14 days, a sheet of material is produced, and it is refined with gums, natural fibres and resins to achieve the durable Malai material. And because the material is made out of wastewater and natural fibres, you can pop it into the compost once you are finished with it.

However, Malai is vulnerable to humidity, and its maker explains that: “Although tough by nature… Malai will eventually start to break down. We cannot predict the exact rate at which this will happen because it is very specific to its treatment and the environment, but if properly cared for a product from Malai shall last anything from 4-8 years.”

So far, uptake by the industry has been slow, with a handful of small regional brands using the material in their designs.

Apple Skin

Another byproduct leather comes from apple harvesting. Made from discarded skin and cores, Apple Skin looks similar to real leather but has a paper-like feel. That’s actually a bonus, because the texture lends itself to easily adding different backings, coatings, and effects depending on the design it’s being used for. The material does incorporate water-based PU, and there’s no record yet of whether Apple Skin is biodegradable. “Good” brand VEERAH has used Apple Skin in a range of its heels, and a small selection of other brands have, too.

VegaTex, the company behind Apple Skin, has branched out into other alternative leathers, too. It also offers Lemon Skin—made from the citrus fruit’s pomace left over from the beverage industry, and Barley Skin, which uses spent grain from Budweiser’s brewing process alongside a water-based PU.

Mylo

A few years ago, mushroom leather Mylo was touted as the next big thing in lower-impact materials—and it still could be. But the material’s pioneer, Bolt Threads, paused production of Mylo in 2023 because of a lack of investment. Business of Fashion quoted the company’s statement as saying: “Despite our intensive efforts, the current macroeconomic climate has made it increasingly difficult to secure the necessary capital to support the scale up of emerging technologies.” Bolt Threads is still deciding whether it’s feasible to restart production, but the news symbolises an overarching challenge in the alternative materials industry—securing the funds and infrastructure for materials whose true longevity is yet to be proven.

Mylo is made from mycelium—the root structure of mushrooms, and Bolt Threads had even engineered a process to grow mycelium in a vertical farming facility powered by 100% renewable energy.

So far, Mylo has mostly been used to create handbags and shoes by a handful of major brands, and with its high quality and durability, there’s potential for it to be an important material for the fashion industry. In 2021, Stella McCartney (“Good”) used Mylo to create a bustier top and utilitarian trousers for a Vogue shoot, and later produced bags with it, too. Ganni (“It’s a Start”) had also invested in Mylo for its accessories.

Note that while Mylo is predominantly made of mycelium, it also contains “some lyocell and a water-based polyurethane (PU) finish for added strength and durability to ensure Mylo products have a long and useful life“.

MuSkin

Another mushroom leather is this organic textile by Life Materials, dubbed MuSkin, which comes from the fungus Phellinus ellipsoideus. Fungi can be grown to the specific size and shape required for designs. Waterproofing is necessary but can be done without harmful chemicals, making this a biodegradable alternative to leather. Softer than suede and antibacterial, this is a clever innovation to look out for in the future, but so far there’s little evidence of investment from the fashion industry.

Waxed canvas and (organic) cotton

Waxed fabrics have long been used for jackets and bags, and in recent years have expanded to other clothing items. The wax is more responsible and protects you from the elements like leather does, and can easily be made to look as good as new through rewaxing, meaning your waxed garment can stay in your wardrobe for years. In fact, waxed garments make ideal second-hand purchases because they’re so easy to restore.

Waxed cotton is used by many brands as a leather alternative, but not all of them use organic cotton, so make sure you double-check before purchasing.

Cork

If you are looking for a quirky, sturdy, and waterproof leather alternative, look no further. Cork leather has skyrocketed in popularity as a fashion material, because not only is it renewable, it is durable, light, and easy to keep looking good as new.

Cork is a plant fibre that comes from cork oak trees. With a lifespan of around 300 years, cork oak trees are harvested for their bark each decade, but the trees continue to live and grow, going on to produce more cork. The harvested material is dried over six months before being boiled and formed into a fabric. This fabric is often backed with a water-based polyurethane, though, meaning it can’t be composted at home.

Recycled rubber

If you’re after hardy leather accessories without the animal cruelty, recycled rubber could be right up your alley. While it is durable and easy to care for, it’s important to note that this material takes a long time to break down, so it’s best to invest for the long-term.

A lot of commercially available rubber doesn’t even come from rubber trees anymore—it is entirely synthetic. That aside, we recommend recycled rubber products. You’ll give new life to objects like tyres and even fire hoses.

The post Mushrooms, Cactus, Cork, and More: 10 Leather Alternatives to Watch appeared first on Good On You.

How ethical and sustainable are luxury fabrics?

From cashmere to silk, luxurious fabrics have captivated us with their silky softness, stunning drapes, and enduring quality.

But the production of these materials can be far from the idyllic images they evoke. For example, the real cost of cashmere production is often felt by goats who, when sheared too early, can freeze to death, or by their herders who face low wages and poor working conditions.

As you become increasingly aware of the impact your fashion choices have on people, the planet, and animals, it is more important than ever to learn how these expensive fibres are made and whether you should invest in them.

How are these luxury fabrics made? And what is the true cost associated with the production of these materials? Let’s have a look.

Choose materials based on your values

We appreciate that materials and fibres in fashion is a complex issue. Through our research, we found there is no established hierarchy of sustainability for materials in the fashion industry, and very limited comparable data (eg Life Cycle Analysis). What is clear is that every single material on the market today has some sort of trade off and impact on the planet and a mixture of preferred materials is needed going forward.

At Good On You, we do our best to make sense of the complex materials world by independently analysing the information that is out there and consulting with industry experts. We recognise that the impacts of a given material can vary based on where and how it was produced. We also welcome all the innovation around novel materials. But as always, we are looking for solid science to assess them against all the main areas of environmental impact

Our list of lower-impact materials is not static and is constantly evolving as more research and data comes to light.

We believe that you are the final decision maker when choosing materials for yourself. Figure out what is most important to you and let information guide your process.

Of course, materials are not the only issue a brand should be addressing. For example, a brand using linen but not addressing greenhouse gas emissions in the supply chain, hazardous chemicals in dyeing, textile waste, or labour rights issues is far from best practice, but using more sustainable materials is a good base upon which to build a responsible brand.

To learn more about our process for ranking brands and materials, be sure to check out our How We Rate page

Silk

Silk is said to have been invented in China in the 4th century and is known for its strength, smoothness, and sheen. It is also known for its wrinkle resistance and ability to keep its shape.

Silk is spun from the long threads that make up a silkworm’s inner cocoon. The fibres are, in reality, saliva produced by the worm to insulate itself until it is time to transform. Silk is made by harvesting the raw silk threads and then reeling them together for commercial use. The silkworms are killed during the process of extracting the silk.

Alternatives to the silk-making process are possible. Ahimsa silk, also known as “peace silk”, allows the moth to evacuate the cocoon before being boiled. Some silks fall under the Ahimsa umbrella include “Eri silk” and “Tussar silk”. Unfortunately, peace silk isn’t very good for the environment.

When it comes to buying silk or its alternatives, check sources to ensure that you don’t buy into exploitation or environmental destruction.

Cashmere

Cashmere is one of the rarest and most luxurious fibres in the world. This exceptionally silky material is said to be three times as warm as wool and is known to be long-lasting. However, cashmere is less sustainable than you might think: the goats this fibre comes from being the first to pay the price of cheap cashmere production. As they have very little fat, shearing them too early mid-winter means they can freeze to death. Cashmere production can also have a social impact—there’s growing concern about the working conditions of cashmere goat herders.

The increased demand for cashmere has meant herd sizes have increased, driving the desertification of Mongolian grasslands. And climate change is exacerbating these impacts: the changes in temperature in Mongolia have meant poor quality cashmere, as goats need to be sheared in a narrow range of temperatures.

People used to pay a lot more for cashmere than they do today. This isn’t unique to cashmere, as the fast fashion industry continues to spew out all kinds of garments for lower market prices while the people, planet. and animals foot the true costs.

As more people (particularly those in the West) demand more cashmere knitwear, an industry that requires four goats to be combed for a single sweater has had to ramp up its pace. This has led to far lower welfare standards for goats and reduced payments to herders and industry workers, causing socio-economic struggles.

While goats are not killed to produce cashmere, they are treated as commodities in the industry, and they don’t get to live out their entire lifespan, as once their hair thins and brittles with age, they are slaughtered.

If you want to invest in cashmere, we’d recommend looking at second hand options first, then recycled cashmere.

Pashmina

Like cashmere, pashmina is a fibre derived from goats, but they are different in terms of the type of goat and the quality of the thread.

Pashmina comes from the fine, soft undercoat of the Changthangi goat, which is native to India’s high-altitude region of Ladakh. The fibre is finer and softer than cashmere, but it is also more delicate and prone to pilling.

Pashmina production encounters the same issues as that of cashmere. Climate change is also said to have a dramatic impact on Pashmina production and the goats’ nomadic shepherds, the Changpa people. Warmer winters reduce the quality and quantity of the valuable Pashmina wool, reducing the returns for herders and weavers, who have significantly reduced in numbers as a result.

What’s more, to meet the ever-increasing demand for Pashmina, producers have started importing raw Pashmina from China and Mongolia: “Although the goats are the same breed, they are not reared in the extreme conditions required to stimulate the growth of the super-soft undercoat required to be considered 100% pure Pashmina”, says Andrew Newey for CNN.

If you’d like to add a pashmina shawl to your wardrobe, have a look at your local thrift store or on vintage online marketplaces for some second hand options.

Mohair

Mohair is a luxurious, strong, and durable fabric that is made from the hair of the Angora goat, which lives in the mountainous regions of Turkey. Known for its softness, warmth, and durability, mohair is a popular choice for sweaters, coats, and scarves. Despite its delicate appearance, mohair fibres are surprisingly strong, resisting pilling and matting even after repeated wear and washing.

However, according to PETA, mohair production negatively impacts the environment: goats must be fed between 40 and 50 pounds of high-quality feed to produce one pound of mohair, which can lead to land degradation due to overstocking and overgrazing.

Like cashmere and pashmina, we recommend buying mohair second hand.

Merino wool

Merino wool is a fine, soft, and durable wool that comes from Merino sheep, a species found mainly in Australia and New Zealand. The fabric is prized for its warmth, breathability, and softness.

However, the impact of wool production, including Merino wool, on the planet and animals is significant. There is controversy over the practice of mulesing the sheep (cutting away skin to reduce flystrike, usually done without anaesthetic), and we recommend against purchasing wool from mulesed sheep for this reason. Keep in mind mulesing is one small aspect of sheep husbandry, and even mulesing-free wool can have other welfare concerns.

Industrial scale livestock grazing can also increase land clearing and degradation. Though more holistic land management methods for grazing livestock animals are gaining popularity and support, they aren’t yet widely practised. Wool that is “superwashed” (aka infused with plastic) or blended with synthetic fabrics also loses its biodegradability.

Wool certified by the Responsible Wool Standard, ZQ Merino Standard, or the Soil Association Organic Standards can be better options, bearing in mind that the animal welfare guarantees differ.

Vicuña

Vicuña is a delicate and lightweight type of wool that is taken from the vicuña, a member of the camel family, which lives in the high mountains of South America.

The fabric is known for its warmth, softness, durability, and lightness. It is also one of the most expensive and rarest of all wools, as vicuñas can only be sheared every three years.

Unfortunately, due to the rarity of the vicuña and the high demand for its lustrous wool, the animal is often over-hunted, and its habitat threatened as a result. We recommend steering clear of this fibre.

Alpaca wool

Another type of wool from South America, alpaca wool, is a luxurious, soft, and lightweight wool taken from the alpaca, a relative of the llama. Alpaca wool is also known to be hypoallergenic and prized for its warmth and breathability.

Some people consider alpaca wool a kind alternative to sheep’s wool, as it is often marketed as small-scale and sustainable in the industry. Unfortunately, an investigation into the leading production country of alpaca wool, Peru, has shown the opposite to be true. Following the release of footage showing alpacas suffering as they are tied down for shearing, even UNIQLO has banned the fibre.

Opt for second hand alpaca wool or go for an alternative.

Linen

Linen is one of the most biodegradable fabrics in fashion history. It’s strong, moth resistant, and made from flax plant fibres, so it’s fully biodegradable when untreated (ie not dyed).

Linen can withstand high temperatures and absorbs moisture without holding bacteria.

Linen is one of the better options on the market—just be sure to purchase garments in its naturally occurring shades of ivory, ecru, tan, and grey, and especially avoid bright white linen, which has to go through an intensive bleaching process.

Go for organic linen, one of our top ranked materials, to ensure no harmful chemicals were used in production.

Egyptian cotton

Egyptian cotton is made from Gossypium Barbadense, a plant that produces long-staple cotton and which is grown in the Nile Delta and other parts of Egypt. The fabric was invented in the 18th century and is prized for its ability to remain soft and wrinkle-resistant even after multiple washings.

Like cotton, Egyptian cotton is a naturally-occurring fibre, but claims of pollution, exploitation, and slavery nevertheless haunt its production. What’s more, while Egyptian cotton refers solely to cotton made from Gossypium Barbadense, Egyptian cotton is often incorrectly used as a marketing term to include any cotton grown in Egypt.

If you can, go for garments made with recycled or certified organic cotton instead.

Fur

Traditionally, fur was worn as a source of warmth and protection. For centuries, animals were killed for meat, with their pelts providing a practical and durable material that would keep people safe from the elements. In the 20th century, fur became a regular feature of luxury fashion when Hollywood stars appeared draped in exotic pelts. Since then, fur has been marketed as a measure of wealth and glamour—expensive and desirable.

As fur’s popularity grew, fur farming became big business. At the same time, the animals involved became commodified—opening the door to inhumane practices, like being skinned alive. For many of us, wearing fur is simply cruel and to be avoided at all costs. Campaign groups such as PETA have long highlighted the inhumane practices of fur farms. That isn’t to mention all the environmental and labour issues fur-farming has, many the same as leather.

An ethical consumer motivated by the interests of animals would avoid any new product made from fur. At Good On You, we take a zero-tolerance approach to brands that use fur or fur from other non-domesticated animals.

Velvet

The word “velvet” refers to the structure of the fabric, not the actual fibre or material used. You can recognise velvet thanks to its short pile, raised loops, and tufts of yarn that cover its surface.

Velvet can be woven from any type of yarn. While velvet was traditionally woven from silk in the past, cheaper materials, such as cotton, linen, wool, or synthetic fibres, are commonly used alone or in combination. The fashion industry, especially fast fashion retailers, mostly replaces silk or other plant-based materials with polyester.

If you want a velvet item in your wardrobe, we recommend shopping second hand, in order not to increase the use of new plastics or silk. Alternatively, look for velvet made from a modal rayon from more sustainably harvested beech trees and better processing methods.

The post Your Sustainability Guide to Luxury Fabrics appeared first on Good On You.

What is silk?

Local legend goes, Chinese Empress Xi Ling Shi (also known as Leizu) was sitting beneath mulberry trees on a fine 27th century BCE day, enjoying a cup of tea when a cocoon fell into her cup. As the fibres of the cocoon began to unravel in the hot water, the Empress admired the beauty of the shimmering threads. And so the story goes that the young royal invented the reel and loom, going on to teach the ladies of her court how to weave silk fabric.

Demand for silk established an ancient trade route through Asia, the Middle East, and Europe which became known as the Silk Road. While Chinese Imperialists kept their silk-making method a secret to maintain power over its value, by 550 CE two monks smuggled silkworm eggs in their walking canes, hobbling all the way home to Constantinople upon the orders of the Roman Emperor Justinian.

Today, the cultivation of silkworms for silk—known as sericulture—is a big business. No longer a secret, silk is spun from the long threads which make up the inner cocoon of a silkworm. The fibres are in fact saliva, produced by the worm to insulate itself until it is time to transform. After being pulled from cocoons, raw silk threads are reeled together for commercial use. China remains the largest silk producer in the world, followed by India, Uzbekistan, Brazil, and Japan.

Is silk sustainable?

Despite being dubbed a “natural” fibre, the sustainability of silk can vary based on how it’s processed, and by how sericulture facilities are fuelled. Silk is also an inefficient material to produce, with 187kg of mulberry leaves required to be grown as feed for silkworms in order to make just 1kg of silk. So many leaves and so much land for them to grow on means that the mulberry leaf farm practices tied to silk matter a lot to the overall material impact.

The processing of conventional silk generates high volumes of greenhouse gases due to the large amounts of manure and fertiliser required to grow mulberry leaves, and because coal is used to power a lot of the sericulture facilities, which require energy to maintain boiling water and steam for production. These emissions aren’t inherent to the material like methane emissions from wool are, and could be limited as renewable energy increases, and by changing farm practices.

What about the people in silk supply chains?

The silk industry provides employment to millions of people across the world, most of whom live in rural areas where job opportunities are limited. While sericulture has aided community development and lifted some people—particularly women—out of poverty, for others, it is the industry they are enslaved by. Sericulture can also be dangerous if safe working conditions aren’t provided.

Forced labour

The global silk industry is rife with human rights abuses. While this isn’t the case across the entire industry, with very few brands able to supply information about how their raw materials are made (and by whom), it can be virtually impossible to know which brands are tied to this serious problem.

The four most significant silk-producing countries are reported by the Global Slavery Index to be associated with high modern slavery risks. In Uzbekistan and India, for example, forced labour has been widely documented. Child labour is also documented across both countries, with children as young as 5 in Uzbekistan reported to work from 4AM until midnight picking mulberry leaves and tending to silkworms. In India, one report shared the words of 12-year-old silk weaver, Mehboob, who said that he had learned nothing else in his life. Without diligently-reported assurance that a brand is not using silk made with forced labour, it should not be assumed to be fairly made.

Painful work

The boiling water and hot steam silkworms die in also commonly cause serious burns on the hands of sericulture workers. These burns can lead to secondary infections like dermatitis. A report from Kashmir, India, showed health problems like back pain, respiratory issues, headaches, eye irritation, and other ailments to plague the majority of silkworm rearers.

If silk isn’t produced organically, and instead with the use of dangerous pesticides, further health issues can persist. Chemical exposure through pesticides, as well as during the processing and dyeing of some silks, can cause skin irritation and damage to organs including the lungs, kidneys, and liver. It’s for this reason that sustainable farming and dyeing practices—for all textiles—are closely linked with fair working conditions.

Silk’s impact on animals

Despite being called “silkworms”, the little critters inside the silky cocoons used to produce the fabric are caterpillars. These caterpillars would naturally metamorphose into moths, specifically the bombyx mori moth, in the case of domesticated species. This soft, white species makes up as much as 90% of global silk production, but a variety of other species are bred across Africa and Asia, too.

Note: The following section explores the impact of silk production on silkworms, but the sentience of insects is still being researched by the scientific community and Good On You’s own methodology does not treat silk in the same way as materials like leather and wool. However, a brand cannot achieve our highest score of “Great” for animals unless it is entirely vegan, so you might choose to steer clear of virgin silk if you prefer cruelty-free and vegan fashion.

Debates around insects and cruelty-free

Exploring the ethics of using silkworms for fashion is complex. While a growing body of evidence suggests that insects have complex cognitive capacities, research in the space is still developing.

Some cruelty-free fashion lovers choose to err on the side of caution and follow an ethical philosophy that aims to reduce suffering among all lifeforms.

So what happens to silkworms and moths in sericulture?

To spin their cocoon, silkworms spin their bodies in a figure-eight shape as many as 300,000 times over up to eight days. Naturally, moths would then break out the top of their cocoons after their transformation is complete, but this breaks the kilometre or so of silk filament they produce. So, in the silk industry, silkworms are either steamed or boiled alive inside their cocoons. To make just one kilogram of silk, as many as 5,500 individual silkworms are killed.

What about “ahimsa silk”?

The ancient Indian principle of “ahimsa”, commonly referred to as non-violence, is all about respecting living beings and avoiding injury and suffering. Ahimsa silk, also referred to as peace silk, is promoted as cruelty-free. However, “Ahimsa” silk moths are still discarded and crushed in bins after they are of use and kept in semi-frozen conditions until breeding season.

What’s more, the bombyx mori moth has been selectively bred for the sake of profit. These breeding practices mean that even if moths are free to leave their cocoons, they will never be able to fly or move properly, or even eat, and so are unable to live for long.

There are some types of silk derived from wild species. Muga, tasar, tussah, and eri silk textiles are made in India, where empty cocoons are collected from forests for use in fashion. But transparency in wild silk supply chains is limited, and some such silk is “free-range” rather than wild (where natural habitats are imitated in human-made facilities). Wild silk varieties are both rare and not as soft as the original and coveted mulberry silk, losing much of the allure of the material for many people.

The future of silk

While a number of alternatives to silk already exist today, a lot of them are synthetic and derived from fossil fuels. These materials—polyester being the most common example—are tied to hefty water use and microplastic shedding, and can take hundreds of years to break down in landfill. Instead, look out for vintage materials, recycled satin, increasingly common bamboo lyocell fabrics, as well as more innovative and plant-based materials like Naia Renew, a cellulose acetate fibre.

Silk alternatives made from rose petals and banana fibres are difficult to find, but similarly soft. Silks made from orange juice industry by-products are being created by Orange Fiber in Italy. Meanwhile, Bolt Threads—which also creates mycelium leather—has produced the first commercial spider silk. Despite the name, the company does not use spiders in the process, but was inspired by them. The thread is made from yeast, water, and sugar and produced through fermentation. This process is much like brewing beer, except instead of the yeast turning the sugar into alcohol, they turn it into the raw stuff of spider silk. It is worth keeping in mind how new these silk alternatives are to the market and that comprehensive peer-reviewed studies on their environmental impacts might not yet exist.

Read about more ethical silk alternatives

The post Material Guide: How Sustainable Is Silk? appeared first on Good On You.

Fast fashion’s plastic problem keeps growing

Polyester is everywhere. You might even be wearing the synthetic fibre right now without realising it, as it’s surprisingly versatile. Scan over any fast fashion website and you’ll find the material composition for everything from dresses and blazers to knit jumpers and loungewear to be primarily polyester.

Polyester is so pervasive that Textile Exchange reports it’s the most used fibre on the planet, accounting for 52% of the global fibre market in 2020. For fast fashion brands, using polyester makes sense: it’s cheap, strong, and durable. But that durability also presents a problem: polyester doesn’t biodegrade.

In more ways than one, fast fashion’s overproduction and reliance on virgin polyester is driving the waste crisis and the industry’s environmental scorecard to new lows. When it’s thrown out, polyester stays in the landfill for decades and potentially even centuries. And it’s made with non-renewable petroleum, a fossil fuel.

Due to these many negative impacts, organisations like Textile Exchange are pushing the industry to move away from its overuse of virgin polyester. In 2021, Textile Exchange and the UN Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action launched the 2025 Recycled Polyester Challenge, with more than 130 companies signing on to accelerate a transition to polyester from recycled sources.

Even fast fashion brands have been publicising their commitment to using recycled polyester, with the fibre factoring heavily into almost every “conscious” and “sustainable” collection launched in recent years. Take evoluSHEIN, SHEIN’s “conscious” collection. Recycled polyester is the star material in almost every garment in the collection. A recent H&M campaign branded products like a faux fur jacket and a blazer dress made with recycled polyester as “circular”.

On the surface, that can make a cheap SHEIN dress seem like a better choice to the growing number of conscious-minded consumers. And many see the shift away from virgin polyester toward more recycled polyester as positive.

But when you look specifically at fast fashion brands, this one material switcheroo can seem like the only tangible change underpinning many of their sustainability claims. And that’s a big problem, according to a range of experts who worry fast fashion brands are greenwashing their use of recycled polyester without addressing the key drivers of their negative impacts: overproduction and waste.

Here’s what you need to know about fast fashion and recycled polyester, including how it’s made, its impacts, and the future of synthetics.

Recycled polyester is rarely made of recycled clothing

First, let’s clear up a common misconception: recycled polyester is rarely made from the fibres of recycled clothing.

The term “recycled” makes some consumers imagine that recycled polyester clothing means fibres from old polyester garments are recycled into new ones. But that’s rarely the case.

It’s quite challenging to recycle old clothing into new clothing. This is because garments are often a mix of different materials: there are blended fibres (commonly polyester blended with cotton), elastics, yarns, metal zips, plastic buttons, and so on.

This explains why so few of our clothes are actually recycled. In the US, just over 13% of clothes were actually recycled, according to 2018 data from the Environmental Protection Agency. Instead, unwanted clothes are more often discarded in environmentally harmful ways. More than 11m tonnes of clothing are incinerated or dumped in the US every year.

Instead, the recycled polyester you see advertised by fast fashion is almost always made from old plastic—coming from sources like water bottles instead of plastic fast fashion. In fact, Textile Exchange reports that in 2020 99% of recycled polyester was sourced from PET bottles—meanwhile “less than 0.5% of the global fibre market came from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles”.

How recycled polyester clothing is really produced

Currently, taking plastics like single-use bottles and turning them into clothes is largely achieved through a mechanical recycling process. The items are melted down into pellets before being spun into new yarn. And this is what most brands use to make their recycled garments or accessories. Adidas, for example, works with Parley for the Oceans to turn marine plastic waste into sneakers.

This is a seemingly great solution for repurposing plastic waste, but it’s not so clearcut. Recycled polyester created through a mechanical process can’t be recycled again and again. This raises some concerns when fast fashion brands increasingly rely on the material. It also likely sustains demand for single-use PET bottles, not something we want to see. Recycled polyester is still often blended with virgin polyester, furthering the reliance on fossil fuels. And at the end of these garments’ lives, they’re still often destined for the landfill.

There’s no doubt that recycled materials have environmental benefits; they require fewer initial resources to make and cause fewer greenhouse gas emissions when compared with virgin materials.

Any brand shifting to some percentage of their production run to recycled synthetics is better than the alternative.

Cat Salvidge, a sector specialist for sustainable textiles at British nonprofit the Waste & Resources Action Programme (WRAP), says that even if recycled polyester is only used to make 20% of a garment, and the rest uses virgin synthetics like nylon or viscose, it’s still reducing the impact of that particular item of clothing—at least from the point of view of its carbon footprint.

“Replacing a proportion of the product with recycled fibres will still help to reduce a product’s impact when compared to using virgin materials. Switching 20% of the virgin polyester used by the industry to recycled polyester made using plastic bottles would reduce the carbon footprint by 4.5%,” she says. “And if we replaced all virgin polyester with recycled polyester, we could expect carbon footprint savings of more than 25%.”

Turning recyclable plastic bottles into non-recyclable clothing isn’t a sustainable solution for these brands.

But “better than the alternative” isn’t setting the bar very high for fast fashion brands, which are a primary driver of the industry’s environmental problems. Salvidge says the industry needs to go further when it comes to recycled materials. Turning recyclable plastic bottles into non-recyclable clothing isn’t a sustainable solution for these brands.

“We need to move towards our own closed-loop system of fibre-to-fibre recycling,” she says. This essentially means that every garment produced is made back into a new garment at the end of its life, reducing the need for virgin materials.

One proposed solution: textile-to-textile recycling

Textile-to-textile (or fibre-to-fibre) recycling means turning textile waste like old clothes into new textiles and new clothing. It’s a more circular paradigm.

But today, less than 1% of textile waste is textile-to-textile recycled, according to McKinsey.

There are a range of factors currently limiting textile-to-textile recycling, ranging from collection and sorting to processing challenges. For polyester, it can be a logistically difficult and labour intensive puzzle to solve.

A new wave of technologies described as chemical recycling aim to make textile-to-textile truly scalable—and resulting in better quality materials, as well.

UK-based Worn Again Technologies, for example, has been working on a scalable chemical recycling process that would turn hard-to-recycle blended garments into new virgin-like materials, keeping them in constant circulation. It’s still in the early phases of demonstrating whether its solution has broader potential. It’s building a textile recycling plant in Switzerland, which would demonstrate the company’s ability to create a scalable “closed-loop chemical recycling solution.”

But chemical recycling still raises some concerns of its own. Salvidge notes that chemical recycled synthetic fibres demand less energy than producing virgin synthetics, but more energy than conventional mechanical recycling. “The de-polymerisation and re-polymerisation processes typically happen at high temperatures” and thereby require a lot of energy to complete, she says.

There’s another obvious snag: the use of chemicals. If chemicals used in the recycling process aren’t correctly managed, they can be hazardous to both workers and the environment, explains Salvidge. To prove they’re recycling responsibly, brands can acquire third-party certifications. The Global Recycled Content Standard, for example, monitors waste management and prohibits the use of hazardous chemicals according to the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List.

It’s not a straightforward issue. But for Salvidge, recycled fabrics always come out on top in comparison to virgin synthetics. And the biggest asset of chemical recycling is the end result. “The outputs [from chemical fibre-to-fibre recycling] are of the same quality as virgin materials, so 100% recycled content can be used,” she says. “With mechanical recycling, the fibres generally need to be blended with virgin materials to achieve the required performance quality from brands.”

Fast fashion is investing in textile-to-textile recycling

When chemical recycling is commercially accessible, fast fashion brands are already indicating they could adopt the practice. In fact, H&M is an investor in Worn Again Technologies.

In 2019, H&M’s investment manager for sustainable fashion said that the brand “looks forward to being an early adopter” of Worn Again’s solutions and will “integrate” the technology into its supply chain.

But moving toward innovative recycling methods still doesn’t do anything to address the root of fast fashion’s environmental impacts: overproduction.

For example, H&M reportedly produces around three billion items of clothing every year. If in some hypothetical future a brand like it could produce all of its clothing with fibre-to-fibre recycling methods, that still wouldn’t solve the environmental woes that come from overproducing clothing at that scale. Even with the ecological improvements that come with using recycled fibres, the recycling process still has its own environmental impacts, which only increase when ramped up to meet such a huge demand.

Another big snag: recycled polyester sheds microplastics

Recycled or not, synthetic fibres are a prime source of microplastics, which are tiny but environmentally-toxic particles of plastic.

“[Microplastics] are released from garments during all life stages, from production to use to washing to end of life,” explains biologist and ecotoxicologist Bethanie Carney Almroth, associate professor at the University of Gothenburg. She adds that these microplastics make their way into the waterways, causing damage to marine life. Research suggests they are toxic to fish, causing oxidative damage and neurotoxicity.

In the Arctic, studies have found that nearly three-quarters of microplastic pollution comes from polyester. These particles likely made their way there through manufacturing and laundry.

Fast fashion is highly problematic. This small effort to ‘recycle’ is not making a major impact.

In Almroth’s view, using a few more recycled materials is simply not enough to fix fashion’s environmental problems. “[Conventional] recycling only adds one ‘loop’ before the material becomes waste, so it is not truly sustainable or circular,” she says. “Fast fashion is highly problematic. This small effort to ‘recycle’ is not making a major impact.”

Almroth recently worked on a new report with the Stockholm Resilience Centre, and the findings showed that plastic and chemical waste is already out of control. With that in mind, she says there is only one way to reduce fashion’s impact on the planet: slowing down.

To put it simply, Almroth says: “we need to consume less.” And to accomplish that, fast fashion brands need to produce less. But right now, fast fashion’s overproduction only seems to be accelerating. SHEIN, for instance, relies heavily on synthetic materials, and every day it uploads thousands of new products to its website.

There’s no change without systems change

The bottom line: recycled polyester can’t solve fast fashion’s overproduction problem. Nothing can—aside from a systemic shift away from the take-make-waste model.

But innovations in this space should inspire some optimism. When combined with a slow down in production, fibre-to-fibre recycling could offer the industry a chance at reducing its impact. And if we’re going to deal with the polyester nightmare, a slow down is exactly what we need, experts tell me.

Fashion needs a fundamental system change, Salvidge tells me. “Brands and retailers need to address the issues of continued overproduction and overconsumption,” she says. WRAP, her company, is working with brands through its Textiles 2030 initiative to help them move towards circularity.

“Brands need to design for circularity, which means making sure their products are made using low impact materials and production processes, and are made to be long lasting and recyclable,” Salvidge adds.

And recycling is only one component of a truly circular business model.

“Brands also need to support their customers to care and repair for their clothing so that they can be kept in use for longer,” adds Salvidge. “[They need to] provide alternatives to buying new, such as resale and rental services, as well as provide accessible ways for customers to return clothing they no longer use, to be resold or recycled.” That’s only a start towards a truly circular economy.

Because, really, circularity isn’t just in the hands of fast fashion. It can start at home, with us, in our own wardrobes.

We, as consumers, have a role to play too, which starts with doing everything we can to stop piling more polyester into the landfill. We can buy second hand, outfit repeat, upcycle, personally resell what we already own, or swap with friends. And we can engage with our representatives to support the kind of regulation the industry needs. Because, really, circularity isn’t just in the hands of fast fashion. It can start at home, with us, in our own wardrobes. We can each be an enabler of change.

The post Recycled Polyester Doesn’t Fix Fast Fashion’s Over-Production Problems appeared first on Good On You.

What is fleece?

Fleece is a synthetic insulating fabric typically made from a type of polyester called polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or other synthetic fibres. It is very comfortable due to its light weight and anti-perspiration qualities, and allows moisture to evaporate while blocking humidity from the outside. Being breathable and fast-drying, it’s a common option for sportswear and winter clothes.

Fleece typically only uses synthetic fibres, making it a vegan alternative to wool. However, you can find fleece mixed with other fibres like wool or recycled PET plastic, woven and brushed to get that light weight quality.

A brief history of fleece

In the late 1970s, Malden Mills, an American textile maker now known as Polartec, began experimenting with polyester’s potential.

In 1981, the company introduced fleece to the sportswear market thanks to a collaboration with Yvon Chouinard, owner of a then-little-known mountaineering outfitter called Patagonia.

The first-generation of fleece was called Synchilla, and within a decade it was used widely in sports and outdoor clothing. Fleece became trendy for its lightness, warmth, and colourfulness, but also for its relative inexpensiveness, and it completely changed the way we dress for cold weather. Fleece technology is continuously improving, the yarn is now as fine as cashmere and can even be made from recycled plastic bottles.

So, is fleece a more sustainable fabric option?

Generally speaking, fleece is made from non-renewable resources and needs an extra chemical coating to make it windproof or water resistant, which is not great for the environment. What’s more, fleece can only stand so many trips through washing machines and dryers before showing signs of wear meaning it has to be replaced relatively often.

“Eco-fleece”, using recycled PET, can be seen as a better option since it saves on the primary ingredient—raw petroleum—as well as energy. It also potentially reduces the number of bottles in landfills.

But synthetic fibres, recycled or not, pose a problem as they do not biodegrade and tend to bind with molecules of harmful chemical pollutants found in wastewater, such as pesticides.

What about microfibres?

A recent study from the University of California at Santa Barbara and funded by Patagonia found that, on average, synthetic fleece jackets release 1.7 grams of microfibres or as many as 250,000 synthetic fibres each wash, and that older jackets shed almost twice as many fibres as new jackets. Even when companies use recycled plastic bottles to make their fleece, research indicates that the plastic might ultimately end up in the oceans.

Those synthetic microfibres are particularly dangerous because their size allows them to be consumed by fish and other wildlife, going higher and higher up the food chain, concentrating toxins, until they reach us.

The verdict on fleece

Although fleece is a lighter and less scratchy alternative to wool, its impact on the planet and eventually on animals and consumers make it not such a great option, and it should be avoided in the conscious consumer’s closet wherever possible.

When looking for warm clothes, we recommend going for lower-impact options like recycled wool, organic cotton, or for infrequently washed outerwear, recycled PET. If you do opt for eco-fleece, you should learn how to care for it so minimal shedding occurs.

Learn more about the sustainability and ethics of materials

The post Material Guide: How Sustainable Is Fleece? appeared first on Good On You.

What would a more circular pair of jeans look like?

The universality of jeans remains an enigma to the fashion industry; no other item of clothing has been so consistently in style since its inception. But the process for making denim is often resource intensive and its lifecycle linear (ie make, wear, dispose).

What if denim—one of the most widely loved materials—could become truly circular? What would that look like?

To answer those questions, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation brought together a group of denim experts in 2019 to collaboratively develop a vision of what best practice looks like for a pair of jeans. These brands, manufacturers, fabric mills, collectors, recyclers, and academics developed guidelines to design and produce jeans in accordance with the principles of a circular economy.

At a high level, a circular economy reimagines our current modes of manufacturing and disposal, so that new products are generated from materials already in circulation, essentially from waste. Broadly speaking, the principles of circularity are: eliminate waste and pollution; keep products and materials in use, and regenerate natural systems.

The need for a more circular economy is evident in the worsening waste crisis, of which denim is one contributor. All over the world, we are buying more clothes, wearing them less, and throwing them away.

And the need for a more circular economy is evident in the worsening waste crisis, of which denim is one contributor. All over the world, we are buying more clothes, wearing them less, and throwing them away. Data from Fashion United suggests that 1.25bn pairs of jeans are sold every year (although some sources put the number at closer to 2bn). According to a 2017 report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, clothing production doubled between 2000 and 2015, and the number of times garments were worn declined by 36%. Consumers purchased 60% more garments and discarded them twice as fast.

The result is a world where tonnes and tonnes of textiles are landfilled or incinerated every second. Exploring what circular denim looks like in practice can shed some light on how the industry overall needs to change.

Best practice: 3 principles for more circular denim

The denim experts assembled by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation outlined three principles for more circular denim production. The first is simply that products should be used more. The second pillar is that products should be “made to be made again” or be designed and constructed in a way that ensures they can be reused, remade, and recycled. Finally, after a vigorous, long life of use, repair, and recycling, garments must be composted and returned to the earth.

Theoretically, this makes perfect sense and, in a way, it seems ridiculous to describe it as an ambitious vision for the future. Unfortunately, built-in obsolescence is firmly entrenched in modern society, and fashion has strayed a long way from valuing quality over quantity. The concept seems simple: an easy return to a time when clothes were designed to be loved and used for as long as possible before being safely recycled.

1. Wear jeans longer—extend their life

The first of these principles, to use jeans more, seems like a fairly straightforward place to start. Increasing the number of times something is worn creates value and reduces waste.

On this point, many of us have a case study in our closets. I bought my favourite pair of jeans second hand at a charity shop. They’re vintage Rip Curl (a surf brand) but cut like classic Levi 501s. The previous owner wrote their name in green inside the waistband. The jeans have a deep high rise, five pockets, silver rivets, twin stitching, and a straight leg. They’re made of thick denim and when they come out of the wash, they’re so stiff and rigid that it’s very satisfying to pull them on and feel them wrap around my hips and waist as I zip them up. But it’s their colour I love the most—a faded true blue. It’s pretty but strong, darker around the seams. A soft blue, like an early morning sky. It goes with everything: white singlets, silk shirts, black tailored blazers, navy overcoats, brightly coloured knitwear.

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation needed tests that would account for a more ambitious life cycle, so they asked manufacturers to increase their durability testing for a minimum of 30 home laundries.

For a pair of jeans to be worn longer, they need to be designed to last longer. That’s why the Ellen MacArthur Foundation investigated the durability of the average pair of jeans and found two things. First, the durability of jeans had significantly reduced over time. And second, there was no consistently used method or baseline across the fashion industry to measure and compare the durability of garments.

They soon discovered that some organisations were only testing jeans for one wash cycle, which gave no indication of their durability. They needed tests that would account for a more ambitious life cycle, so they asked manufacturers to increase their durability testing for a minimum of 30 home laundries. Meaning that after 30 home washes, the manufacturers had to perform their normal durability testing before the jeans left the factory.

2. Make denim to be made again

The second of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s principles for more circular denim stipulated that jeans should be made to be made again—required the design process to account for the repairability and recyclability of a garment.

As the circular economy insists that products and materials be kept in use and cared for to retain their value, the foundation needed to know how different materials fared through the recycling process.

The guidelines set out three different types of textile recycling. Fibre recycling is performed by sorting textiles by colour and material, shredding them, and spinning them back into fibres. Polymer recycling uses chemistry to take the fibres back to their polymer level by destroying them but keeping the chemical structure intact, either by melting and extruding them or using a chemical solvent. The third method, chemical monomer recycling, breaks the material down into smaller individual particles that can serve as feedstock to produce virgin-quality particles.

3. Use safe and recycled or renewable inputs

The third principle the foundation identified is that jeans are made from safe and recycled or renewable inputs. More circular jeans have to be produced in a way that is safe for the long-term health of people and ecosystems. They have to be made with chemicals that comply with the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Restricted Substances List—a list of chemical substances banned from intentional use in facilities that process textiles.

A circular economy requires that substances harmful to the health of humans or the environment be designed out to allow for safe recirculation of materials. The guidelines ban several chemical processes. It also stipulates that fabric mills implement wastewater guidelines—including testing and reporting—and that the water volume used for denim fabric be a maximum of 30 litres per metre.

Relatedly, the foundation’s final stipulation for more circular jeans is that they be made from cellulose-based fibres that come from regenerative, organic, or transitional methods. This means natural fibres like cotton and hemp, or man-made cellulose fibres like lyocell from farming practices that build soil health and carbon content and improve water cycles, biodiversity, and the resilience of the surrounding ecosystem.

Fashion’s waste crisis demands transformation

Conversations about textile waste are becoming more and more mainstream. Inside and outside the fashion industry, governments and companies are beginning to understand that the precious resources textile waste contains represent an opportunity to generate new textiles, solve the issue of rising landfill, and replace some of the demand for virgin resources.

The European Union is currently working on legislation to manage and control textile waste, and undoubtedly the rest of the world will soon follow.

The possibilities presented by generating new textiles from waste are a fundamental part of transforming fashion’s impact on the environment. This is not simply because they offer a solution to the issue of textile waste sitting in landfill—an issue that will only intensify until current rates of consumption are curbed. It is also because conversations about recycling textiles reveal how the entire lifecycle of a product needs to be considered at the design phase—in the ateliers of Paris and the studios of London.

The European Union is currently working on legislation to manage and control textile waste, and undoubtedly the rest of the world will soon follow.

A circular fashion industry needs the decisions made by designers while they’re creating collections of pants, skirts, coats, shirts, and dresses to be made with holistic awareness. How will the design function throughout the garment’s use phase? Is it constructed in a way that means it is repairable? Will the fabric breathe against the skin? Is it durable? How will its materials and construction impact its recyclability? Will it have value after it’s been loved and worn, if its first owner wants to sell it or pass it on?

These conversations push the industry forward, to a place of responsibility. A place that seems alarmingly foreign in the take-make-waste world of fast fashion and hyper consumption. A place where each garment can be made from waste or from fibres healing landscapes and constructed so they are able to be made and remade again and again.

The post What Circularity Looks Like: As Seen Through a Pair of Jeans appeared first on Good On You.

Hemp has a lot of environmental perks

Hemp is often cited by sustainable fashion advocates as a fibre of the future because it can drive positive outcomes for the land where it’s planted. In the right region, it grows with minimal inputs like fertilisers and pesticides, and without irrigation. It also has wild potential for carbon sequestration and soil health. But it makes up a very small percentage of the fibre market and its capacity to be used as a mainstream textile remains relatively untested.

This makes it something of an enigma, which is intensified by its complicated history. For a long time, because of its close relationship to marijuana (they are both part of the cannabis family), growing hemp was prohibited across much of the Western world and was only removed from the UN’s Schedule IV Prohibition in 2020.

Hemp is a bast fibre like flax, but it grows up to four times as tall, so it completely dwarfs any farmers who walk beside it. Hemp plants are long and straight with hollow woody stalks. Industrial hemp is naturally insect resistant so it requires no pesticides, and its rapid canopy growth suppresses weeds so it doesn’t require herbicides. It is so robust that it is relatively resistant to frost and can grow in diverse soil types. It actively improves soil structure because its long roots can tap into sub-soil nutrients that other plants can’t access.

Because hemp grows so fast, so tall, and in such high density, it is considered one of the most efficient commercial crops for carbon sequestration.

All of this sounds pretty incredible, but what has climate activists and sustainable designers most excited is hemp’s potential to sequester carbon.

While it’s growing, like all plants, hemp absorbs carbon and stores it as biomass. But because hemp grows so fast, so tall, and in such high density, it is considered one of the most efficient commercial crops for carbon sequestration. The CO2  is permanently bonded within the fibre and whatever material it is turned into. Hemp reaches its full height in just days, and because it’s possible to grow two crops per year, that rate of carbon absorption can be doubled.

A complicated history: hemp and the ‘war on drugs’

Hemp cultivation dates back at least 12,000 years. It’s considered one of the earliest domesticated crops and, because it is extremely versatile, it quickly spread across the globe.

Historical records suggest the Chinese cultivated it for fibre, seeds, and oil 4500 years ago. In the early Christian era, hemp spread throughout the Mediterranean, and by the Middle Ages it had reached the rest of Europe.

In the 1500s it was planted in Chile, and 100 years later in North America. Hemp paper is said to have been used for important texts like early bibles and laws. As the European powers battled for nautical supremacy in the 17th and 18th centuries, hemp was vital as it made excellent ropes, sails, rigging, ladders, lanyards, and fishing lines. It was a widespread but relatively ordinary crop for thousands of years until the 20th century, when its popularity began to decline with the rise of petrochemicals, synthetic fibres, and cotton.

This slowdown culminated in a strange twist when, in 1937, the Marihuana Tax Act was passed in the United States and suddenly growing hemp was illegal in America. The act was part of a crackdown on drugs, and was reinforced by the Controlled Substances Act in the 1970s.

Hemp’s inclusion is thought to have been because of confusion on the part of US lawmakers who couldn’t distinguish it from its sister plant, marijuana.

The key distinction between the two plants is that hemp does not have psychoactive properties. The chemical in marijuana that gets people high is called tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), and while it is found in hemp, it’s at tiny percentages (the international legal requirement is between 0.3–1%) compared to marijuana, which has THC levels of about 20%.

Once the laws were passed, hemp was no longer regulated in the US by the agricultural sector but by the federal Drug Enforcement Agency (DEA). This change in classification spread around the globe and hemp farming was banned in most Western countries. Despite having cultivated it for thousands of years, China also banned it in 1985.

In the 1990s, attitudes towards hemp and its classification as an illicit substance were reassessed as concern for the environment and consumption of natural resources led industry and government to consider alternative fuel sources. In 1992, France, the Netherlands, England, Spain, and Germany legalised the commercial cultivation of low-THC hemp, followed by Canada in 1994 and China in 2010.  Commercial cultivation of hemp remained illegal in the United States until 2018, when the Farm Bill was passed.

Regenerative fashion and a positive way forward

Hemp has enormous potential. Farming it improves soil health and yields for the crops that follow it. If farmers can figure out a way to integrate livestock that won’t destroy the hemp crop, but instead assist in clearing the field after harvest and prepare it for planting, there is potential to reduce tillage too, thereby improving the soil even further.

If processing innovations and infrastructure can catch up, hemp has the potential to live up to its reputation as a fibre of the future and drive positive outcomes for landscapes and farmers.

Hemp provides an interesting way to explore the three different areas that need to function together if fashion is to change and move forward in a positive way.

If processing innovations and infrastructure can catch up, hemp has the potential to live up to its reputation as a fibre of the future and drive positive outcomes for landscapes and farmers.

The first is how changes to farming certain fibres can have a positive impact on the land by improving soil health, biodiversity, ecosystem functionality, and water cycles—which hemp has great potential to do via its innate characteristics. This alongside the continued education of farmers willing to embrace regenerative techniques and grow it in accordance with these principles.

The second is advances in processing infrastructure and technologies towards best practice like renewable power sources, closed-loop processes, or other careful management of chemicals and waste, alongside fair wages and working conditions for the people working in the factories.

The third is less clear-cut: the dilemma posed by centralised offshore manufacturing versus a return to local industry. It is something that comes up again and again in regenerative fashion conversations. In a perfect world, local industries all over the world would still be thriving; the knowledge and skills to process the produce of local farms would not have been forgotten; mills would have remained operational with technology and techniques that continued to advance, and the unchecked exploitation of people and the environment would never have happened.

The smartest thing to do is to embrace as much best practice and transparency along existing manufacturing and processing facilities as possible, while encouraging both private and public investment in local infrastructure, legislative changes to support this, and training all over the world.

Because what better time than now to start decentralising fashion’s supply chains and look forward to a very different future for the fashion industry?

The post Is Hemp the Fibre of the Future? Here’s Why Some Climate Activists Say Yes appeared first on Good On You.

What is kangaroo leather?

Kangaroo leather is the tanned skin of kangaroos, a native Australian species that is regularly and legally shot in a commercial industry by the millions. Kangaroo leather is considered to be soft, thin, and flexible as compared to cow skin leather. It is used for gloves, and most commonly, for sports shoes worn by football players around the world. Massive global corporations such as Nike, Adidas, and Puma still use kangaroo leather today, as do many others around the globe. While some may be unaware of the harm caused by their material choices, the fashion industry must dedicate itself to becoming far better informed about what its supply chains support.

It’s common for kangaroo leather to be labelled simply as “k-leather”, meaning some people are likely to purchase the skins without understanding what they are really paying for.

Concerningly, it’s common for kangaroo leather to be labelled simply as “k-leather”, meaning some people are likely to purchase the skins without understanding what they are really paying for.

The kangaroo leather industry sometimes claims to be a more ethical alternative to cow skin leather, as the industry shoots native, free-living kangaroos, rather than confining cattle to feedlots, or performing any cruel standard practices on them, as the cattle industry does. Too, the industry adamantly claims that shooting kangaroos is sustainable, going so far as to label the indigenous icons as “pests” which must be lethally controlled. As you’ll see, this is far from the truth.

Let’s talk about kangaroos

Kangaroos are a type of macropod species native to the land now referred to as Australia. These indigenous species have lived on the land for some 20 million years. The oldest intact rock painting in Australia is well over 17,000 years old, found in Western Australia on Wilinggin land, and depicts a large kangaroo.

Kangaroos live in matriarchal societies. Despite common misconception that frames kangaroos as rampant overbreeding pests, they are intuitive breeders which, when undisturbed, reproduce stably in relation to the state of their environment.

There are a number of different kangaroo species, with the Eastern Grey and Red kangaroo being most well known. Since European colonisation, six species in the macropod family have become extinct, and a number face serious risks today. Leading factors currently harming kangaroos are the leather industry which skins them; habitat destruction, and broader ecological crises.

Kangaroos in Indigenous cultures

Any conversation about kangaroo leather should include Indigenous voices, but they are too often left out of both the ethical conversations of animal rights activists and the profits of the commercial industry.

Kangaroos and their skins are used to fulfil a variety of roles in some Indigenous cultures. As the beliefs of Indigenous cultures are diverse and not monolithic, a wide range of historic and contemporary views on the issue exist. Some Indigenous cultures traditionally use kangaroo skins. One example of this use is the Booka, a cloak made of kangaroo skin and traditionally worn by the Noongar peoples of southwestern Australia. Meanwhile, some young Indigenous artists are continuing traditional Aboriginal cloak-making traditions using various kangaroo and possum skins.

It’s also important to note that traditionally and still today, kangaroos are a source of sustenance for many Indigenous people. Indigenous chef Clayton Donovan, for example, said to The Guardian: “these proteins, I don’t know how far we’d live without them”, describing the relationship as complex and often tied to traditional land management practices.

Conversely, some “Traditional Owners” recognise kangaroos within a totemic system, where different natural objects, plants, and animals are inherited by clans and families as spiritual emblems. Clan families are “responsible for the stewardship of their totem”. In this way, some Indigenous voices have spoken to the inherent rights of kangaroos as native animals, who now passed Elder Uncle Max (Dulumunmun) Harrison referred to as “the first Australians”.

It is colonialism that sees country as only something to gain a financial profit from—to be used, to be abused—and that sees kangaroos as a pest.

Aunty Ro Mudyin Godwin

Aunty Ro Mudyin Godwin is one of the most prominent advocates for her totem, the kangaroo. Aunty Ro reminds us that the commercial killing of kangaroos for leather and profit is a disrespectful and unjust symptom of colonisation:

“It is colonialism that sees country as only something to gain a financial profit from—to be used, to be abused—and that sees kangaroos as a pest… Current [government] are not just environmental vandals but they are engaging in the very same genocide upon kangaroos that was instigated upon we Indigenous people, the thylacine, and indeed the koala. This is their [and] my ancestral home… Every time one of these totemic animals is gunned down a part of myself—my family—dies.”

Unfortunately, the commercial kangaroo slaughtering industry largely disregards and excludes the concerns of Traditional Owners.

Is kangaroo leather sustainable?

Animal advocates argue a simple point: kangaroos are individuals worthy of respect. But it goes deeper than that. Kangaroos are also a key part of a critically important environmental factor: biodiversity. Biodiversity is the abundantly rich and diverse array of plants and animals on Earth, and without it, ecosystems cannot thrive.

Some proponents of kangaroo leather cite the fact that these skins have a far lower carbon footprint than cow skin leather, or that they are “natural” unlike synthetic alternatives (despite the tanning process rendering these skins inorganic and generally non-biodegradable). However, this can be considered a kind of “carbon tunnel vision”, where emissions are considered in isolation to other critically important environmental factors.

In reality, kangaroo leather production is harmful to kangaroos themselves, and the ecosystems which they are a part of.

The largest land-dwelling wildlife slaughter on the planet

The slaughter of kangaroos across their native land has been labelled as the largest commercial slaughter of any land-dwelling wildlife in the world. The Australian government, which permits this killing, describes the trade of kangaroo skins for leather as the “backbone” of the shooting industry, which brings in nearly $90 million per year.

The Australian government estimates that today, 34 million kangaroos live across Australia. In the last decade, a shocking estimated 31.5 million kangaroos have been killed by the agricultural industry which sells their skins and flesh as leather and meat, the latter often marketed as companion animal food.

The protection of kangaroos is critical: we cannot afford to lose any more species.

Kangaroo populations are in decline, according to Australia’s chief scientific body. But the Australian government still describes kangaroos as “pests”, providing licence to harm them. Since 2000, CSIRO (Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation) states that as many as 42% of identified kangaroo populations have undergone an overall decline in abundance. By other accounts, the decline has even been more dramatic: since colonisation in New South Wales, kangaroo populations are estimated to have declined by 89%, according to data reviewed by ecologist Raymond Mjadwesch.

A growing number of scientists dispute claims made by the government that the commercial killing of kangaroos is “sustainable”. More Australian mammals have been driven to extinction than those in any other continent, and local extinction risks for kangaroos exist today. The protection of kangaroos is critical: we cannot afford to lose any more species.

Kangaroos and their role in the ecosystem

The ecological benefits of kangaroos as compared to farmed animals who are similarly skinned for leather have been used to justify opting for kangaroo leather over cow or sheep skins. However, such environmental benefits should serve as reasons to protect this native species, and to move beyond all animal skins to more sustainable, ethical alternatives.

Kangaroos support vegetation biodiversity and naturally participate in bushfire prevention as they graze.

Kangaroos support vegetation biodiversity and naturally participate in bushfire prevention as they graze. Their fur traps spores and seeds which are redistributed throughout landscapes as they move, and their large toes can also aerate compacted and depleted soils.

While some areas are considered to have an unusually large amount of kangaroos, the destruction of kangaroo habitat for inefficient agriculture (particularly animal rearing), as well as the killing of Australia’s apex predator, the dingo, are major issues, rather than kangaroos themselves.

Impact on individual kangaroos?

We’ve explored how the mass killing of kangaroos hurts their species, but individual kangaroos targeted by the leather industry suffer immensely too.

A poorly regulated, cruel industry

Kangaroos are usually shot and killed at night, when there is low visibility. These killings also occur in rural locations, making monitoring of industry practices nearly impossible. As a result, codes of practice for how kangaroos “should” be shot exist, but are incredibly difficult to enforce. This makes it difficult for brands using kangaroo leather to know what really goes on in their supply chains.

Because of this, some conservative estimates find that as many as 94,000 kangaroos are killed and “processed” each year through methods which violate codes of practice. Some reporting suggests that 40% of kangaroos are shot in the neck, rather than the head, resulting in a slow, painful death. Those living in rural areas where kangaroos are shot for commercial gain have reported finding disturbing remains of kangaroos which show that they died traumatically.

The killing of young joeys

Perhaps the most distressing part of the kangaroo leather supply chain is the treatment of baby kangaroos, known as joeys. Each year, an estimated 440,000 dependent young kangaroos are killed either by being left to starve, or by being clubbed to death. Footage of this legal, standard practice is chilling, and far from what we’d think of when we talk about “ethical fashion”.

How does kangaroo leather impact workers?

As with any other leather, kangaroo leather is transformed through a tanning process. The skins of all human and non-human animals naturally decompose and rot when we die. The tanning process renders “organic matter” as “inorganic”, so that this decomposition process is permanently altered.

Most leather produced around the globe, regardless of species, is tanned with carcinogenic chemicals like chromium, which not only negatively impact the environment, but tannery workers, too. Tannery workers suffer cancer at high rates due to their exposure to tanning chemicals. Tanneries are also highly polluting in many instances, harming surrounding communities.

Sustainable, ethical alternatives to kangaroo leather

If you’re looking to avoid kangaroo leather products, there are fortunately a wide range of leather alternatives. Here are just some of them:

• Recycled leathers, including recycled synthetic leather (ideally certified by the Global Recycling Standard)
• Partly bio-based leathers, like VEGEA derived from wine industry waste, Desserto made partly from cacti, AppleSkin made from apple skins, cores, and seeds, and Piñaex, made from pineapple plant leaf fibres. These are blended with synthetic materials so are not ideal for the environment but a good ethical alternative for those avoiding animal leather
• MIRUM, a completely plastic-free, USDA biopreferred certified leather alternative made from plant-based and other natural substances like clays
• Cork, a largely unprocessed and wholly natural material pulled from trees without harming them. Make sure to opt for cotton-backed cork rather than cork that’s backed with a virgin synthetic material
• Washable paper and Treekind are two tree-based, biodegradable alternatives to leather

The post Ethical Guide to Kangaroo Leather: How Millions of Kangaroos Are Slaughtered For Their Skins appeared first on Good On You.

Denim is one of the most popular fabrics worldwide, traditionally cotton-based and used in everything from the ubiquitous jeans to stylish jackets and accessories. Unfortunately denim isn’t sustainable by default—but there are better ways to make it, and better brands responsibly incorporating it. Let’s take a look.

The denim blues

From the catwalk to the countryside, ranging in price from $10 to over $500, from pants to skirts to jackets, denim is as versatile as it is hardy and trendy. Traditionally made from cotton, non-stretchable, and designed to be heavy duty owing to its workwear heritage, jeans have a rugged history. But with over 2 billion pairs produced worldwide each year, just how ethical and sustainable is our beloved blue fabric in the modern day? We’ve traced its journey from the field to your favourite pair of high-waisted shorts to find out, and curated a list of brands doing it better.

How denim is made

Conventionally, denim is made from twill weave cotton fabric. Cotton fibres are harvested and spun into yarn, then the yarns are dyed. Jeans are often indigo-dyed, making them the classic blue colour for denim. Cotton denim is then woven either on a shuttle loom or a projectile loom, creating a sturdier or more delicate result respectively.

While the original jean was made from 100% cotton, these days “stretch denim” is increasingly popular. Stretch denim incorporates a percentage of elastane and stretch polyesters like spandex, more suitable for the flexibility desired in skinny jeans, for example. While this addition may be comfier for certain styles, changing the fibre composition in such a way impacts the sustainability and recyclability of the final product.

A move towards better materials

Some more responsible brands are opting for comfort being imparted through the use of soft fibres such as TENCEL Lyocell and TENCEL Modal (man-made cellulosic fibres). There is also a move towards lower impact materials in the industry in general—BCI cotton, organic cotton, recycled cotton, recycled polyester, man-made cellulosic fibres, recycled elastane, and hemp are good examples. However, it’s worth noting the move towards organic cotton is not straightforward as there is not yet enough organic cotton available globally to meet demand.

The impact of a pair of jeans

To keep it simple, let’s look at the impact of a conventional cotton pair of jeans on the environment and workers.

Water

A study by Levi Strauss & Co found that producing one pair of Levi jeans requires a staggering 3781 litres of water, a number that varies across the industry. Over 10% of the world’s population is currently deprived of access to clean water, a staggering statistic that puts an alarming perspective on our thirsty denim purchases. Unfortunately, it tends to be the driest countries that shoulder the burden of creating the water-intensive goods that we crave. Pakistan, for example, has a large cotton industry but has been in the midst of a water crisis for years.

Today, there is a strong focus on water usage for denim brands. Several have started using tools such as Higg Facility Environment Module or Jeaonologia’s EIM to record water consumption and measure environmental impact in the supply chain.

Chemicals

Water consumption isn’t the only ethical concern with denim. While cotton only takes up 2.5% of agricultural land, it accounts for large quantities of insecticides. These can be highly toxic and create a hazardous working environment for cotton farmers. Between 1 and 3% of agricultural workers worldwide suffer from acute pesticide poisoning with at least 1 million requiring hospitalisation each year. Furthermore, the harsh chemicals can pollute nearby soil and water systems, threatening food supplies and creating health risks.

Dyes

In addition to the pesticides used in cotton production, harmful chemicals may also be used extensively in denim’s dyeing process. Azo dyes, for example, can sometimes release carcinogenic amines. Such chemicals can be harmful to the environment and a risk to worker health and safety.

“Even traditional indigo dyeing is typically water intensive, and requires various chemistries to ‘reduce’ the indigo dye, thereby ensuring it will fix to the yarn,” according to our resident materials expert and ratings analyst, Kate Hobson.

Hobson tells us some moves are being made towards less water intensive dyeing processes, such as foam dyeing (as used by Wrangler). It is also possible to use “spun dyed” cellulosic or synthetic yarns (where colour is added before the fibre is spun, thereby eliminating the need for garment dyeing). Lenzing, the company behind TENCEL Lyocell and Modal fibres, offers examples of this.

Look for brands that use certified eco-friendly or natural dyes to avoid funding these toxic processes.

Sandblasting

Ever wondered how your favourite pair of “distressed” jeans got to look so weathered? It’s not because they were hung out for months and exposed to the elements before they hit the shelves. The look is achieved through a controversial technique called sandblasting. As the name suggests, jeans are literally blasted with sand to soften the fabric and wear them down. The process poses significant health risks to workers as the fine dust particles can lodge themselves in people’s lungs. There are other ways to create the distressed look such as stone-washing, sandpapering, brushing, or using lasers. While more costly than sandblasting, these methods achieve similar results.

A significant problem is that many companies don’t have as much control over or knowledge of their supply chain as they should. In March 2015, for example, an undercover Al Jazeera investigation discovered Chinese workers sandblasting jeans for popular labels including Hollister and American Eagle, apparently unbeknown to the brands.

Labour

From its roots in the slave trade to current issues with child and forced labour in Uzbekistan and India, exploitation is woven into the history of cotton production. As we’ve seen above, many steps in the denim manufacturing process pose significant risks to workers’ safety. There are also issues in countries such as West and Central Africa and Brazil where farmers are unable to compete with the cost of US-subsidised cotton.

The verdict?

Denim production can have serious social and environmental consequences. However, this is not the way it has to be. There are denim brands, both big and small, that are committed to people and the planet. If you’re on the market for denim, here are some of the best ways to reduce the footprint of your purchase:

• look for jeans made from better materials like recycled or organic cotton or hemp
• opt for high-quality jeans designed for longevity in both durability and style that you will wear for years to come
• shop sturdy second hand or pre-loved jeans to extend their life
• for the best chance of recyclability at end of life, go for jeans made from 98% cellulosic fibres such as cotton, hemp, viscose, lyocell, modal, or linen

You can discover responsible denim brands in our directory, or simply read on to see some of our favourites.

The post Material Guide: How Ethical and Sustainable Is Denim? appeared first on Good On You.

Nothing warm and fuzzy about the fur industry

Everyone knows how soft and comforting fur can feel—so many of us love petting beloved, furry companion animals. The fur on wild animals like mink, foxes, and raccoon dogs feels very similar, but the conditions they are kept in for the fashion industry are anything but warm and fuzzy.

As much as 95% of all fur sold around the globe comes from animals confined to factory farms. These animals are wild—mink love to swim and can dive as deep as 30 metres, while foxes roam the land as wide as 10 kilometres—making their caged existences extremely distressing. On fur farms, animals are denied the freedoms of nature. Foxes receive 10 million times less space than they freely explore—usually a one metre squared wire cage.

The terror and anguish that animals face in fur supply chains should be reason enough to leave fur behind. But what research has shown is that there are even more reasons that it’s time to say so long to fur.

Joshua Katcher, Collective Fashion Justice board member, author of Fashion Animals, and fashion lecturer who has lobbied for fur bans in America, says that “sick and injured animals driven to physical and psychological distress languish on fur farms, sometimes even resorting to self-harm and cannibalism. They are prevented from engaging in even the most basic, natural behaviours like running, digging, exploring, socialising, or simply having their paws on the dirt.”

So much cruelty goes on in fur farms even before the animals are brutally killed far short of their natural lifespans. To hide all of this, Katcher says that “fur trade groups have made many attempts to combat an evolution toward a more ethical, sustainable, and innovative industry, and have spent a lot of money doing so.”

The environmental and human costs of fur

Fur production is so environmentally harmful that a French advertisement calling fur “natural” and “eco-friendly” was banned by advertising authorities, which labelled it “strongly misleading”.

Fur factory farms are major contributors to ammonia and phosphorus emissions due to the build-up of faecal matter on overcrowded farms. These emissions can lead to eutrophication, risking “dead zones” in surrounding waterways.

While fur is natural when growing out of the bodies of animals, the fur people wear is far from it. Industry-funded studies show that once fur is “dressed”—a process akin to the tanning of leather—it does not effectively biodegrade. Carcinogenic chemicals like formaldehyde and chromium are used, posing significant health risks—and even death—to fur dressing workers. Too, as we saw in the earlier stages of the COVID-19 pandemic, fur farms pose a major risk for the spread of deadly zoonotic diseases.

Animal fur shouldn’t be replaced by unsustainable alternatives

While Katcher tells me that “most fashion students and young designers I speak to today agree that something made in a horribly cruel and ugly way can no longer be seen as good design”, it’s common to hear quandary around what fur should be replaced with.

“Critics say faux fur relies on oil and consequently is not a good alternative. But a synthetic fur made in a responsible environment will always have a lighter environmental impact than animal-based materials,” explains Arnaud Brunois from faux fur artisan ECOPEL “The fur industry relies on oil-based industries as well.”

While this is true—and even conventional synthetic faux fur made from virgin raw materials (petrochemicals) has a significantly lower climate impact than animal fur—this doesn’t mean fossil-fuel derived fur is the ultimate solution. After all, the IPCC states that we must end all fossil fuel extraction.

It is entirely possible to create good products without petrochemicals. There is a lot of innovation in novel bio-based synthetics that could be exact chemical matches to the petro-synthetic, or be very similar.

Dr Sydney Gladman – Chief Scientific Officer at Material Innovation Initiative

Dr Sydney Gladman, Chief Scientific Officer at Material Innovation Initiative, believes it is “entirely possible to create good products without petrochemicals. There is a lot of innovation in novel bio-based synthetics that could be exact chemical matches to the petro-synthetic, or be very similar.”

Brunois and ECOPEL have explored this for some time, alongside synthetic recycling. “At ECOPEL, we believe in balancing nature and technology.”

ECOPEL’s original offering was a lower impact synthetic. Next, the artisans worked on a recycled synthetic faux fur, which they are now looking to improve again, by switching from recycled bottles for recycled ocean waste: “Our UMI collection is made from regenerated yarns produced from recycled waste collected from the ocean by Seaqual”.

Continuing to improve options for brands seeking more ethical and sustainable “fur”, a few years ago, ECOPEL launched KOBA, first used by Stella McCartney. Still partly synthetic, this is a “partially plant-based faux fur”, reducing reliance on fossil fuels. Just recently, the company launched GACHA, which is made from a variety of biodegradable polyester.

Faux fur of the future

According to key stats based on Good On You’s brand ratings, there is no evidence of fur use in the collections of 95% of total brands. While this number drops slightly to 89% in the luxury sector, the majority of luxury brands have banned fur in recent years. And while several countries have already banned fur farming, a European Citizen’s Initiative currently collecting signatures may see all fur farming and farmed fur product sales banned across the continent. For the sake of animals, the planet, and our collective health, it’s clear why there’s a growing movement against commercial fur.

Material innovation is aiding the industry in this move. And it’s well received by brands. Brunois works with many of the most luxurious fashion houses in the world and says that “the luxury industry is very excited about these innovations. It seems that the consensus is ‘no’ to animal fur and ‘yes’ to new generations of faux furs with a lower impact and a virtuous end of life.”

But, while significant progress in the next-gen “circumfaunal” material space has been made, there’s still room to grow. Material Innovation Initiative’s Chief Innovation Officer, Elaine Siu, notes that “there just hasn’t been enough dedicated R&D specific to the faux fur space.”

The overarching progress in the world of bio-based synthetics and plant fibres will definitely also accelerate the creation of high-performance and sustainable next-gen fur.

With the private capital investment in next-gen material companies doubling from 2020 to 2021, reaching US$980 million, we expect to see more breakthroughs, including in the next-gen fur category. The overarching progress in the world of bio-based synthetics and plant fibres will definitely also accelerate the creation of high-performance and sustainable next-gen fur.

We have seen so much progress in the next-gen fur space in the last few years, and this growth is only further flourishing. While it’s inevitable that the future of fur is animal free, it seems the greatest limit to our idea of what faux fur is and will be is our imaginations. Scientists and material innovation experts are sure to continually surprise and inspire those across the fashion landscape.

The post Fashion Is Moving Beyond Fur, so What’s Next? appeared first on Good On You.

Is cashmere the same as wool?

While sheep and alpacas are shorn for their wool, it’s goats who are most often combed for cashmere production. Cashmere fibre is just another name for the hair of a specific breed of goat originating in Kashmir, India, where cashmere production is said to have begun around the 13th century.

Unlike the vast majority of wool production, most cashmere goats live nomadically with herders rather than confined to one fenced area for the entirety of their productive lives.

While advertisements may lead us to believe that goats grazing grasslands live happy lives and contribute positively to the ecosystem they are bred into, unfortunately, this is not necessarily the case. Is cashmere ethical or sustainable? Let’s take a look.

Cashmere: how a status symbol got so cheap

People used to pay a lot more for cashmere than they do today. This isn’t unique to cashmere, as the fast fashion industry continues to spew out all kinds of garments for lower market prices while the true cost is footed by the people, animals, and environments harmed in their making.

As more people (particularly those in the West) demanded more cashmere knitwear, an industry that requires four goats to be combed for a single sweater has had to ramp up its pace. This has led to far lower welfare standards for goats and reduced payments to herders and industry workers, causing socio-economic struggles.

Four goats need to be combed for a single cashmere sweater.

This alone doesn’t pull expensive cashmere off the ethical hook, though—most problems with cashmere laid out in this guide occur industry-wide to varying degrees.

Impact on animals

The ethical questions around cashmere primarily centre around animal welfare—in this case, the wellbeing of goats. Before we get into the problems goats face in the cashmere industry, it’s worth knowing more about the animals themselves.

Goats are clever, known to be inquisitive, at times a bit cheeky, and highly expressive. They communicate with each other, recognising both positive and negative emotions just through the sound of a call from another goat. Researchers have compared the way goats engage with humans to our relationships with dogs.

So how are these sentient animals—capable of feeling pleasure just as much as pain—treated in the cashmere industry?

Combing: not as ‘cruelty-free’ as it sounds

Many companies selling cashmere sweaters, scarves, and beanies will explain on their websites that cashmere goats aren’t shorn like sheep but gently combed. This claim can make it sound as though the process is comfortable for the animals. However, this isn’t the case.

While in Iran, Afghanistan, New Zealand, and Australia, cashmere goats are shorn—resulting in the same welfare problems found in wool supply chains—the majority of goats are combed with sharp-toothed metal combs. These combs can scratch deeply into their skin, sometimes causing bruises and injury.

The RSPCA, considered a conservative animal welfare organisation, does not support the use of these metal combs. Across Asia and most Middle Eastern countries where cashmere production is most common (China and Mongolia are the leading suppliers), here’s how cashmere collection usually goes down:

• Goats are tied up, all four of their legs wrapped together, so they are immobilised. This immobilisation is, as you would imagine, frightening and stressful.
• Goats are roughly combed for as long as an hour, on average. Investigations have shown goats screaming out in pain and distress during this long and gruelling process.
• While goats are often claimed to be combed when they are naturally moulting (shedding their thick winter coats), this moulting process varies based on unique differences between individuals. This means some goats in a herd may not be moulting come combing time.

A slaughter industry

Not only do cashmere goats suffer through the distressing combing process—as well as painful mutilations like castration (for males) without pain relief—they are killed once they are of little financial value.

Goats would naturally live to be about twelve years old, though some have lived far older. Goats treated as commodities in the cashmere industry don’t get to live out their full lifespan, as once their hair thins and brittles with age (just like our own), they are slaughtered.

In countries like Australia, goats are killed some years before reaching even half their natural lifespan. What’s more, if goats are born with a coat of hair that is considered “the wrong colour”, or if their hair isn’t thought of as “high quality” enough, they’ll be killed far sooner.

Across leading cashmere suppliers China and Mongolia, there are practically no laws protecting goats from cruelty. Here, investigations have shown goats to be killed while fully conscious.

Impact on humans and their land

While research shows that jobs involving slaughtering animals can lead to severe negative mental health outcomes, cashmere herders face other problems, too.

Reporting has consistently shown that rising demand for cashmere in the West is tied to a cashmere-debt cycle and poorer social outcomes for those working in the industry. It has also been directly linked to rising climatic temperatures, land degradation, and even some native species endangerment.

This reality can be devastating for many nomadic herders who feel they have no choice but to contribute to this destruction for our cashmere demand.

Yes, I know my goats are harmful to our grassland and the more we have, the worse our land becomes. I get that. But this is how we earn our money. All I can do is watch my grasslands disappear.

Lkhagvajav Bish – nomadic herder

Bish’s words reflect the broader struggle that comes with knowing the cashmere industry is causing detrimental harm to the land herders live on while feeling there is no choice but to continue unless demand dies down again. If consumers shifted away from purchasing new cashmere due to its detrimental impacts, we would need to factor the wellbeing of herders into that shift and find new, more just and sustainable ways to economically support them going forward.

Impact on the planet

Here’s the good bit: cashmere is biodegradable and a renewable resource. As far as materials go, it is more eco-friendly than some others.

However, the agricultural side of cashmere does have planetary impacts: 65% of Mongolia’s once biodiverse grasslands have been degraded due to cashmere goat grazing, as well as the impact of the climate crisis. The breeding of ruminant animals like goats and sheep who burp methane is responsible for 472 million metric tons of CO2e each year. Removing this problem would be equal to taking 103 million cars off the road for a year.

What’s more, goats are notoriously unfussy eaters, ripping all sorts of plants up from the roots, contributing to biodiversity loss. The sharp hooves of these goats also cut into and can degrade the earth underneath them.

While this all sounds grim, researcher Bulgamaa Densambuu has some good news about these grasslands: “90% of this total degraded rangeland can be recovered naturally within ten years if we can change existing management. But if we can’t change today, it will be too late after five to ten years.”

Is there more ethical and sustainable cashmere?

Given the significant harm that cashmere production causes goats, herders, and the environment they share, conscious consumers’ best bet is to avoid new cashmere.

If you’re really keen on snuggling into the warm fibre, opting for the many well-made vintage or second hand garments knitted from the material is the ideal option.

Recycled cashmere is available on the market and is an eco-friendly option, though keep in mind that many partly recycled garments are blended with new cashmere.

As always, buying pre-loved and caring for the clothes you already have is the most ethical and sustainable way to get dressed. But if you’re looking for new knitwear and want to avoid cashmere (as well as wool), here are some more ethical and sustainable materials you might want to keep an eye out for:

• Recycled plant-based materials like cotton
• More sustainably, fairly sourced cotton such as GOTS certified cotton
• Hemp and hemp blends
• Tencel, which has similar thermo-regulating properties
• Organic linen
• Recycled or second hand synthetic materials (though these do still shed plastic microfibres—consider buying a Guppyfriend wash bag, which many brands encourage)

If you’re worried about keeping warm, remember that there are lots of technical fabrics and garments designed for staying toasty made from recycled human-made materials, as well as more innovative plant-based ones.

The post Material Guide: How Ethical Is Cashmere and Is It Sustainable? appeared first on Good On You.

Leather may not be as eco-friendly as claimed

Leather boots, bags, wallets and jackets are considered essential staples in many wardrobes. With promises of being a long-lasting, “natural”, and even “biodegradable” material, it can be easy to believe there’s a way to source animal-derived leather that’s not harmful to the planet and, in fact, even part of a sustainable system. But is this accurate? Let’s explore the many hidden costs of leather and why consumers concerned about animal welfare and sustainability are best to avoid it.

How does leather impact the environment?

The environmental impacts of leather production extend across the lengthy and sometimes complex supply chain. Lots of people think leather is sustainable because it’s simply a by-product of the meat and dairy industries—in other words, that leather reduces waste. However, it’s not true that leather is a mere by-product. As a consequence, the environmental impact of cattle rearing should be “economically allocated” across the different sectors and products that profit from this system. So, what’s the impact of cattle ranching?

Deforestation

Deforestation is a serious problem across the fashion industry, caused by a reliance on unsustainable cellulose materials made from logged, often old-growth trees, and other land-inefficient material production. Too, among the most alarming harms caused by leather production is deforestation. As much as 80% of deforestation in the Amazon Rainforest is tied to cattle ranching. This deforestation results in massive biodiversity destruction and, in turn, the endangerment of native animal and plant species. And it’s not just deforestation—all land and vegetation clearing is harmful to the planet, which is why land efficient agriculture is so important.

Another primary driver of deforestation is soy production, which is closely linked to leather, as well. Around 80% goes towards feed for cattle and other farmed animals. 77% of all agricultural land around the world is used to raise animals for slaughter and grow feed for them. The rearing of cattle is the leading driver of habitat destruction in Australia, with similar stories playing out across the globe.

You can see the visible impacts of deforestation in Brazil, the third most significant bovine skin exporter worldwide (close behind India and China). To put this back into a fashion context, 10,000 square metres of land in Brazil must be cleared or kept cleared to produce around nine leather jackets. It is likely this land was cleared illegally and that it is land in the biodiverse Amazon Rainforest. You need just over a metre of leather to make a jacket. By comparison, Piñatex’s pineapple leaf-based leather alternative needs just about 16 square metres of pineapple-growing land for each metre of material.

Greenhouse gas emissions

Let’s start with something you might have in your closet: a pair of cow skin leather boots. These seemingly innocuous shoes have an estimated climate footprint of 66kg of CO2e. Where does that CO2 come from?

Cattle are ruminant animals, which means that when they breathe, pass gas, and burp, they release methane—a greenhouse gas 84 times more potent than CO2 in the short term. The United Nations says, “livestock are one of the most significant contributors to today’s most serious environmental problems”.

Excluded from these calculations are further emissions, associated with land clearing. Land clearing for cattle rearing not only impacts biodiversity but also our warming climate. When we cut down and destroy trees, carbon is released into the atmosphere. This is one component of leather’s carbon impact.

Water, chemicals, and leather processing

Leather production is also water-intensive. Some estimates suggest that the creation of a cow skin tote bag might require more than 17,000 litres of water. Conventional cotton is often water-intensive, too, but studies find leather to be one of the most water-intensive materials that’s commonly used in fashion.

It’s not only that water is used up by leather production, but that it’s polluted, too. Skins are transformed into leather through the tanning process, and 90% of leather is tanned with carcinogenic chromium and often with formaldehyde and arsenic. These chemicals are detrimental to human health, reported to cause asthma, back pains, bronchitis, chronic dermatitis, DNA damage, and even cancer, to name a few. Today, the majority of tanneries have been moved to lower- and middle-income countries in an effort to export pollution problems. In these places, wastewater is often released into waterways untreated, impacting surrounding land and human and non-human animal communities.

What’s more, some evidence suggests that tanning processes—including vegetable tanning—can hinder the ability of animal skins to biodegrade. Considering biodegradability is hailed as one of animal leather’s main benefits over most non-animal alternatives, this is significant.

Vegetable-tanning is also far less innocent than it may first sound, requiring tannins found in the bark of trees, and with some reports finding “no significant differences” in the environmental footprint of leather tanned with tannins as compared to chromium.

How does leather impact people?

We know leather production causes harm to human communities nearby, like through toxic chemicals released into waterways. But are there more direct harms to people? The answer lies in the experiences of workers along the supply chain, from those rearing the cattle to those tanning the leather.

Tannery workers

Tannery workers are often exploited and face serious health risks, illness, and even death due to exposure to carcinogenic and harmful chemicals. For example, some reporting finds tannery workers have a 50% higher risk of pancreatic cancer linked to chemical exposure. Due to the pollution impact, industrial areas of China where leather is tanned are even referred to as “cancer villages” by local and international news outlets.

Farm workers

Forced labour can be a problem in leather supply chains, as with so many other fashion supply chains. Labour trafficking, debt bondage, and other forms of forced labour have all been recorded in Brazil, Paraguay, and Vietnam. This is of great concern given the lack of transparency in leather supply chains.

Many farm workers have also reported mental anguish related to their work, as they connect with the sentient animals they are paid to harm.

Slaughterhouse workers

We cannot forget that leather is produced in a slaughtering supply chain, and the human implications are significant. Slaughterhouse workers, like soldiers, commonly experience perpetration-induced stress (PITS), a mental illness similar to PTSD, but which comes from being “the direct reason for another being’s trauma”. According to the report by the Yale Global Health Review, as with PTSD, symptoms include “substance abuse, anxiety issues, depression, and dissociation from reality”.

Personal accounts from slaughterhouse workers killing cattle are disturbing and distressing, but the impact of slaughterhouse work doesn’t end there. Physical injuries are prevalent in this line of work, with around two injuries a week reported in the UK and two amputations a week in the US. But what’s perhaps even more concerning is what Yale researchers call “spillover in the psyches” of these workers who are often refugees, migrants, and other marginalised people, as many people with privilege avoid this work.

The mindset that slaughterhouse workers must maintain to survive their work can mean violence towards cattle transforms into violence against other people in their communities, too. Across 500 US counties, communities surrounding slaughterhouses fall victim to disproportionately high numbers of violent offences, including sexual assault.

How does leather impact animals?

While people on farms and in slaughterhouses report feeling traumatised by their treatment of animals, the animals themselves face intense trauma, only ending through slaughter.

Cattle and other animals tied up in leather supply chains like buffaloes, sheep, goats, pigs, and so many others are sentient and capable of fear and pain as much as joy and pleasure. Cows get excited when they learn something new, enjoy music, and form close social bonds. Sounds sweet, unlike the treatment of these creatures.

Some of the softest leather comes from calves, sometimes reared and killed specifically for luxury fashion. Other times, calf skin sales are a way to increase profits in the dairy industry, where male calves (who cannot produce milk) are slaughtered at five days old. Separating these young calves from their mothers—who are forcibly impregnated—can lead to depression in calves and extreme distress for their mothers, who are known to chase after vehicles taking their young away.

Cattle kept alive for longer often face painful yet legal mutilation like dehorning, branding, and castration without any pain relief.

Despite a potential lifespan of over 20 years, cattle whose skins are sold after their slaughter in the beef industry are generally a couple of years old. Cattle killed in leather supply chains are often slaughtered while fully conscious, in countries where animal welfare laws are either not enforced or non-existent. Even in countries with supposedly high animal welfare laws, cattle are regularly found to be slaughtered while conscious.

But what about certified sustainable and ethical leather?

Some certifications and standards claim to ensure sustainable and ethical leather. But is this possible? What are these standards changing, if anything?

The Leather Working Group (LWG) label is often seen on leather goods labelled as “sustainable” and “ethical”. On the plus side, LWG addresses environmental issues like the use of harmful chemicals such as chromium, effluent treatment, and also promotes traceability. But it’s not perfect: the Leather Working Group certification only covers tanneries, meaning many brands—such as Adidas, H&M, Zara, Prada, and Off White which use LWG certified leather—have been linked to Amazonian deforestation. Further, these tannery audits do not require social auditing to protect workers, and no consideration of cattle wellbeing is made, either.

What about leather made from animals raised in “regenerative agriculture” systems? Proponents claim that there is a sustainable and low-impact way to continue the widespread use of animal agriculture in a warming climate, saying that “high intensity, short duration grazing management can not only achieve greater livestock productivity and health but also sequester significantly more carbon than either continuous grazing management or the removal of animals from the land”. However, as the University of Oxford’s massive “Grazed and Confused” report finds, animal agricultural systems—even if they are more holistically managed—still have worsened environmental impacts than non-animal, plant-based systems do. The report concluded that data could not properly back up many of the aforementioned claims.

If you don’t mind wearing cow skin leather and want to continue wearing it, the most sustainable way is to keep wearing what you already have. You can also ensure that this leather lasts longer by caring for it properly. You can also look for vintage and pre-loved leather or recycled leather—but make sure that it’s reputably certified to be recycled and not greenwashed. It’s worth noting, too, that recycled leather can often contain plastic.

Sustainable leather alternatives

Are there any better alternatives to leather that aren’t simply plastic? While for now, synthetic leather remains the most common alternative to animal skin leather, that’s starting to change. And even plastic is getting a little more environmentally conscious, despite it still being plastic. PU, or polyurethane, is now more common than PVC (polyvinyl chloride), which is comparatively more harmful to the planet. Some synthetic leathers are now water-based or certified by standards like REACH and OEKO-TEX 100 which, while imperfect, are still a slight improvement on conventional synthetics.

PU synthetic leather has a reduced environmental impact during production when compared to cow skin leather, when considering climate, water, eutrophication, chemistry, and other impacts. This is worth keeping in mind if your options are limited (and you’ve already tried looking for pre-loved vegan leather— of which there is plenty). However, ideally, we should all be opting for more sustainable leather alternatives when buying new, especially as less synthetic options become more accessible.

Recycled, bio-based, and biodegradable leather alternatives

So, what are the options? First up, we have recycled leather (animal-based or synthetic), ideally certified by the Global Recycling Standard. Next, improving on purely synthetic leather are partly bio-based leather alternatives, like VEGEA, made from wine industry repurposed grape waste; Desserto, made from cacti; AppleSkin, made from—you guessed it—apple skins, cores, and seeds, and the earlier mentioned Piñatex, made from pineapple leaf fibre.

All of these materials are only partly bio-based and, like animal leather, won’t completely biodegrade. This is because they are coated in plastic, even if it’s a bio-based resin made from plant starch. While this is an improvement, it’s not the end of the road.

If you’re looking for a biodegradable leather alternative that’s available right now, opt for cotton-backed cork; washable paper, or more innovative and upcoming materials, like leaf-based Treekind—keeping in mind how new they are to the market and that comprehensive peer-reviewed studies on their environmental impacts might not yet exist.

The future of animal-free leather

In the future, we’ll also see much greater access to mycelium-based leather alternatives, like Mylo Unleather and Reishi. While these aren’t yet biodegradable, they’re far more climate, water, and land efficient and have some of the best tactile qualities.

There’s plenty to explore when it comes to the world of leather alternatives, and it’s an exciting time to see how this industry progresses. Material Innovation Initiative reporting has found that around 50 companies are currently working on next-gen leather-free materials. Almost all major brands are keen to use them, and there is plenty of financial support backing their development.

The future of leather-free fashion is looking good for people, the planet, and of course, our animal friends.

Learn more about sustainable and ethical materials

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Down feather: what’s all the fluff about?

Whether we think about it or not, hidden inside many of our puffer jackets and winter coats are feathers. Feather down usually comes from ducks and geese, which raises questions about their treatment. And while down is biodegradable, there’s a lot more to sustainability that we need to consider. So, is down feather ethical and sustainable?

A topic that’s ruffled feathers

While it can be easy to forget that people wear down feathers at all as it’s hidden inside our clothes, the down industry has had its fair share of criticism and controversy splashed across the media. The main reason for this? Live plucking.

Sometimes, ducks and geese have their feathers plucked out of their bodies while fully conscious. Their feathers are then sold, and when their new feathers grow back, they’re plucked again. This process is as painful as it sounds and can cause skin tears, severe injury, and even death.

But is this a problem across the down industry, or is there such a thing as ethical feather down? And what is the impact of feather down on the world around us?

Why do people wear down feathers at all?

• The downy feathers of birds are very warm, and until somewhat recently, there have not been alternatives that are as warm, if not warmer
• Down feathers are light, which can be useful if you’re layering clothes to keep warm
• Down feathers are biodegradable

But the supply chains which bring down feathers to the fashion industry are complex and come with a host of environmental costs and ethical issues—let’s take a look.

Impact on animals

Let’s get straight to it—the down industry is a slaughter industry. In the words of the International Down and Feather Bureau, “there are no farms that raise ducks and geese purely for the procurement of down and feather”. This fact doesn’t mean feathers are a worthless by-product of the meat industry, but—as with leather—down is a valuable co-product of meat production, bringing significant profit. The global down and feather market value continues to increase, with the industry estimated to be worth over $6.6 billion USD. Each year, an unimaginable 3.3 billion ducks are slaughtered across the globe—that’s 9 million each day.

Ducks and geese are thinking and feeling individuals just like any other animals—humans included. Ducks bob their heads around when they’re excited, and they’re highly social. Meanwhile, geese choose life partners and even mourn their deaths.

Sadly, even Responsible Down Standard certified down, and other supposedly “ethical” down certifications do not prevent ducks and geese from being slaughtered. While there is merit in attempting to reduce the amount of suffering involved in an animal’s life, it’s important to remember that commercial systems that treat animals as means to profit will always include a level of cruelty and eventual killing.

Let’s explore some of the most concerning aspects of the down industry.

False claims of cruelty-free feather collection

Many people choose to avoid down from birds who have been plucked alive, given how much suffering this causes. However, it’s been found that even Responsible Down Standard certified down suppliers and companies—which assure no live-plucking—have continued to live-pluck ducks and geese on farms. Suppliers have been recorded admitting to lying for the sake of the profit: “nobody dares to buy it if you say it’s live-plucked“.

Similarly, some farms and fashion brands claim feathers are “collected” during birds’ natural moulting process each year. It’s argued that feathers loosen during moulting, meaning that feather collection is a pain-free process. Unfortunately, all birds on a farm won’t moult simultaneously, so there’s no way to ensure many birds aren’t still being painfully plucked.

Foie gras, force-feeding, and feather down

Even if down isn’t sourced from ducks and geese who have been plucked alive, it can come from birds who have lived through suffering. Namely, by way of foie gras. Foie gras has been banned in dozens of countries, and most recently, in the city of New York. Foie gras means “fat liver” in French and is a paste made from the livers of ducks and geese who have been confined to cages and force-fed fatty food with a pipe that is pushed down their throat. This process can grow a duck’s liver up to ten times its normal size, and after 15 weeks of this pain and suffering, ducks are slaughtered.

Whether raised for meat or foie gras, ducks are killed at only a few weeks or months old, despite naturally living for over a decade. While we won’t get into the details, the slaughter of ducks is inherently violent.

Feather down from factory farms

The vast majority of ducks are factory farmed, as with most animals reared for production worldwide. Ducks and geese are aquatic birds, and if you’ve ever seen these birds while out walking, you’ll know that they spend the vast majority of their time on the water or nearby it. Despite this, ducks on factory farms—packed into sheds full of hundreds or thousands of other birds—are largely denied surface water to float in. This can cripple birds, who are not built to carry their weight on land so often.

The confinement ducks and geese face, cramping them in close quarters with so many other birds, can also result in psychological harm and related aggression between birds. Sometimes, factory farms cut or burn the ends of birds’ beaks off to avoid injuries when fighting rather than addressing the root cause.

A lack of animal protection laws

Down predominantly comes from nations with no or insufficient laws prohibiting violence against animals, especially farmed animals. Across the globe, animal laws are far worse than you might assume. China, where the vast majority of down is sourced, has no national laws prohibiting violence against animals. Similarly, while nations including Australia, America, and the United Kingdom have animal protection laws, they essentially exempt farmed animals to protect industry interest. In other words, cruelty to animals like ducks and geese is legal, so long as it can be deemed “necessary” to the industry’s profits—like the industry that sells feather down, which goes into jackets and coats.

Impact on the planet

Not only does down production harm ducks and geese themselves, but the planet is also impacted. While down is technically biodegradable—meaning it won’t hang around for years to come should it be discarded and it won’t leach toxins into the soil—there’s more to consider.

Reduced biodegradability

Here’s the thing: while down may be biodegradable, feathers are always kept inside of jackets and coats, and normally, this outer shell is not made from a biodegradable material. Even if a puffer jacket is made from recycled polyester, making it slightly more sustainable, this synthetic acts as a barrier between the outside world and the down—meaning it won’t be able to effectively biodegrade.

With equal to a garbage truck of textiles and clothing being sent to landfill every second around the world, the polyester of a synthetic jacket filled with down can take as long as 200 years to break down. If we want to talk about biodegradability in fashion, we need to consider garments in full, not solely the elements inside of them.

Inefficient animal rearing

As with all animal agricultural systems, rearing ducks is inefficient, and that means you need to put more into the system that aims to produce feathers and meat than you get out of it. When we factory farm birds, it’s not only the land the farm stands on that’s being used up, but all of the land used to grow monoculture cereal crops that ducks and geese eat, too. 36% of all crop calories grown worldwide go directly to farmed animals, but if we moved away from a reliance on animal agriculture, we could produce more with less land and allow more land to be rewilded, assisting in biodiversity restoration and carbon sequestration.

Eutrophication

Factory farms have another significant impact on the planet, called eutrophication. Eutrophication is a process in which a body of water becomes too rich in particular nutrients, resulting in the dense growth of blue-green algae that can suffocate everything underneath the water’s surface. This eutrophication can result in dead zones where aquatic life cannot survive. Runoff from factory farms like those confining ducks and geese is full of phosphorus-rich faeces, which often results in eutrophication.

Water worries

Water surrounding slaughterhouses—not just factory farms—is also put at risk by the down industry. When ducks and geese are slaughtered and later plucked of their feathers, it often occurs in abattoirs that release massive amounts of wastewater. The organic matter in this wastewater is not only bad for the planet but for surrounding (usually lower-socioeconomic) communities, too. A slaughterhouse killing birds has even been sued for dumping so much wastewater that members of the surrounding human community reportedly faced miscarriages, congenital disabilities, epilepsy, and other illness.

Can you buy ethical down feathers?

All down comes from ducks and geese who have been slaughtered or plucked alive. Unfortunately, there is no getting around that. Even when considering certifications like the Responsible Down Standard, birds live in factory farms up until they are killed far short of their natural lifespan and often face all sorts of harm until then.

With all of this in mind, there is no way to buy new feather down which does not cause direct suffering for birds. If you really need to buy feather down (though you’ll see some excellent, sustainable and ethical alternatives below), it’s best to try to find something pre-loved. Of course, you can also buy pre-loved non-down filled jackets and coats.

Finally, recycled down is not always 100% recycled, so if you’re considering buying something new made with recycled down, make sure to ask how the brand knows that 100% of the feather down is reclaimed from post-consumer products like duvets and pillows and not from cruelly treated birds.

Animal-free down alternatives

The best way to protect ducks and geese from harm is to choose animal-free alternatives to down. In the past decade, alternatives have become much more sustainable, and this innovation is only continuing. Some of the most sustainable alternatives to down include:

• PrimaLoft P.U.R.E
  This material is proven to be warmer than down, and unlike down, it is water-resistant. It is made of post-consumer waste plastics, resulting in a 48% emissions reduction during production.
  
• PrimaLoft Bio
  With the same benefits as other PrimaLoft materials, this material is 100% recycled and can completely biodegrade within two years.
• Thermore
  Certifiably made from 100% recycled, post-consumer PET plastic, this material is durable and long lasting. One of the benefits of using an innovative material like this, rather than feather down, is that it doesn’t stay damp, grow mould, or become heavy like wet down does.
  
• Recycled materials
  While PrimaLoft and Thermore are known as one of the most sustainable and effective recycled alternatives to down, many coat fillings are made from post-consumer waste. Given these fibres are inside of another material and in a garment that isn’t often machine washed, microfibre shedding is less of a concern, though still something to consider.
  
• Flowerdown
  This innovative material is becoming increasingly accessible and is made of wildflowers combined with aerogel and a biopolymer, increasing water repellency and thermal insulation while maintaining biodegradability.

Brands using down alternatives

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