A complex supply chain

When we see the “Made in…” label, most of the time we don’t even spare it a second thought. We take the label at face value, and if it says Australia, we believe the whole product to come from the land down under. But what we forget to acknowledge is the complex and interwoven supply chain that comprises much more than just the final stage of production.

Globalisation and consumerism have led to reduced transportation times and a heightened desire for the next trendy item of clothing ASAP. We see it, we want it, and we can get it — pretty much instantly. When we buy online, supply chains can become even harder to trace, and we have even less of an idea of where our clothes are actually made. Do the labels tell the truth? Or do they hide a complex supply chain rife with exploitation?

Some clothes have become so cheap that we don’t even think twice when throwing them away. It costs more to repair them, or to drive them to the local consignment store, than what we bought them for in the first place. Clothes can be more expensive when buying locally, but if you don’t, what’s the true cost?

Locally made for the environment?

When something is bought locally, it seems like it would be better for the environment, since we are more likely to be able to find out if the brand is harming, for example, our local water supply. But it is easy to forget that an item of clothing has many stages of production. From the origins of the raw materials, to the transformation of that raw material into the fabric we see as the basis of our clothes. It’s not as simple as sewing the fabric into a funky new pair of pants. There are many factors we need to consider.

The journey of a piece of clothing is complex and lengthy. It’s extremely rare for raw materials to be grown, processed, sewn, and sold all in one location. Each stage of the supply chain has some form of impact on the environment.

It gets even more complicated if you like vibrant and colourful clothing: all those sequins, sparkles, and dyes adorning your rainbow filled clothing rack have to come from somewhere – and they will inevitably end up back in the environment. Be prepared to ask retailers not just where their clothes are made, but where all those extras come from, and if they will biodegrade.

Certification schemes like the Global Organic Textile Standard can be a starting point for ensuring that items of clothing have not been dyed with anything toxic. This is not just for the environment’s sake, but also our own health. Buying locally can also make it easier for brands to produce “made to order” goods. This means they can simply stop production of items that aren’t selling very well, solving the common problem of deadstock (fabric leftover from production that is often thrown away).

Getting clothes from A to B is another huge contributor to pollution in the fashion industry. When global fashion brands make the move away from sea and air transportation, and instead shift clothing by short sea freight or rail, the reduction in carbon dioxide emissions is enormous. When we buy locally, this is definitely one of the biggest benefits.

It might be a shock to learn that most of the energy that goes into a t-shirt is the energy needed to care for it once it reaches your shelf. A third of its carbon footprint can be saved in its aftercare, so put away that iron, stop using the drier, and make sure you invest in a high-quality, long-lasting piece.

Locally made for the people?

Buying locally made clothes has the added bonus of increasing accountability. In many countries, producers and garment workers face exploitative conditions that result in human rights violations such as excessive hours, forced overtime, lack of job security, sexual harassment, and discrimination.

Unfortunately, many brands, particularly fast fashion brands, have been found to select suppliers from countries with lower degrees of human wellbeing. When apparel manufacturing takes place in countries with low labour costs and where the awareness of environmental and human rights are often less developed, this commonly leads to exploitation.

Although it seems like more developed countries could easily avoid such atrocities, locally made does not always mean better working conditions for the workers in the final stage of production. In Leicester, UK, it was estimated that 56% of garment industry workers “had been paid below the minimum wage, 55% did not receive holiday pay and a third had no contract and did not receive a payslip”. When we look at reports in the United States, the results aren’t much better. In 2021 it was revealed that thousands of workers in Southern California who make clothes for top fashion brands were earning “below minimum wage for 60-hour weeks in unsafe conditions“.

A note on women and women of colour in supply chains

Women are the literal driving force behind our clothes. A majority of garment workers around the world are women of colour. The garment industry jobs all these women hold can and should result in their economic empowerment. They deserve to have the financial independence to be able to decide whether to work, how much to work, and how to spend or save their income. Clothes made from afar have the potential to do great things by empowering these women. But we need to remain conscious of possible gender-based violence in supply chains as well, which could mean that women are facing discrimination and worse. Women also have different needs, such as childcare, since they are commonly the primary caregiver. These needs are sadly not often met in the fashion industry.

Locally made for the animals?

Lastly, we can’t forget about the non-human animals we share the planet with, and how they fare in this whole debate. Animal welfare in the fashion industry is a big problem in countries all around the world. Whether buying something from our own country or elsewhere, it is dependent on the local animal welfare legislation. World Animal Protection provides a useful index of many countries and the standards they uphold (or don’t) for our furred, feathered, and scaled friends, so we can see which “Made in…” labels we should really be avoiding.

Large amounts of leather sold throughout the world come from China and India. Both of these countries do not support the Universal Declaration on Animal Welfare, which means you should probably take a pass on their leather goods that aren’t backed up by any welfare certifications. Animal fibres such as fur also have an enormous impact on the environment. Fur has to be treated with toxic chemicals once removed from the animal, or it will rot. Not the most appealing fact, but it is a form of skin after all. It also takes at least four times more energy to produce a real fur coat than to produce a synthetic coat because of all the materials that go into raising the animals.

Buying clothing from brands that value animal ethics, as well as sustainability and health, is super important. And this will vary brand to brand, country to country. Whenever possible, try buying second-hand, which erases most of the impact in all three areas since you aren’t directly contributing to the garment’s production.

Is locally made better?

Choosing local can be a good choice, but what matters more, in the end, is how the brands you choose to support are managing their impacts across the supply chain.

Like anything, there are pros and cons to buying locally. Buying locally means more accountability and traceability. It can also help support local businesses. However, it’s important to remember that the fashion supply chain is extremely complex, and that no item can truly be 100% local.

This means that regardless of whether we buy a piece of clothing online or on our local high street, that item has likely already travelled around the world in some form, and had a considerable impact on the environment up to that point in its journey.

Being aware that a lot of brands are prone to greenwashing is very important too, as it is so easy in our tech-savvy era for brands to produce misleading information by putting “ethical” or a “sustainable” on their Instagram bio or website, with no solid evidence to back up their claims. Don’t be afraid to ask brands where their clothes are made.

Good On You is the ideal starting point for your research. Our ratings methodology is the fashion industry’s most robust and comprehensive, so if you ever come across a local brand and you’re not sure how it’s impacting people, the planet, and animals, use our app or web directory to check its rating and decide whether it’s worth supporting.

There is no perfect solution. However, avoiding fast fashion, buying fewer, quality, and second hand pieces is guaranteed to help shape a better future for all people, the planet, and animals.

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Some people seem to have a talent for buying vintage clothes, always able to spot a rare gem amongst the endless rows of patterned shirts. For others, it’s more a labour of love or a necessary element of building a sustainable wardrobe on a budget.

If you’re in need of a little old-fashioned inspiration to pull your vintage looks together, Instagram is a great place to start. We’ve found 8 awesome vintage influencers who have honed their selection skills and know their shell tops from their velvet blazers.

@op_shop_to_runway

Alex van Os is an eco-stylist who has an amazing wardrobe that will make you very envious of her thrifting skills! It is full of patterns and on-trend cuts. Besides showcasing her beautiful style on Instagram, she is a Red Cross Ambassador and a stylist in the television industry. Alex also runs group op-shopping (what Australians and Kiwis call thrift/charity shops) tours which we definitely want to try out!

@morethanyouraverage

More Than Your Average is run by Mya O. Price based out of Washington D.C, and a list of vintage influencers wouldn’t be complete without her! She saw the gap in the clothing selection for plus size women and so advocates for it in thrift shopping. Her style is full of colourful clothing, and we love the fun that she has with her outfits. She also stocks some of these great pieces that you can buy on her website!

@birgit.anja

Birgit Anja is the name behind vintage shop Onimos. Originally from Germany, the shop has locations in Augsburg and Shoreditch, where she is now based. They now also feature on ASOS marketplace. This trendsetter is sure to inspire you with her wardrobe filled with fresh streetwear with a retro touch.

@thevintagetwin

The Vintage Twin was founded in 2009 by twins Morgan and Samantha Elias. We love the ethos of these twins, as 10% of their proceeds support charity. They also care for our planet by recognising that sustainability is fundamental. They rework designs, creating funky individual designs that no one else will have, and lessen the demand for mass production!

@mila.guan

Mila Guan is based in Vienna and is passionate about vintage, second hand, and fair fashion. Her style is filled with classic denim and cute crops. Like others, she has founded her own vintage account Guan Vintage. Filled with pieces for guys, girls, and all in between, it shows you can still look cool and buy vintage!

@themetalromantic

We have saved the edgiest and boldest for last. Olivia Hargrove is The Metal Romantic. Her sunshine-yellow locks sport a “90% thrifted wardrobe.” At this rate, it’s no wonder this pro has one of the sleekest wardrobes out.

We recommend buying second hand, either from your local second hand shops or from apps and websites like Depop, Farfetch (who now has a “Pre-Owned” section) or Vestiaire Collective, where you can find some amazing pieces in mint condition! You can learn more about second hand shopping with our guide on where to buy second hand clothing to help you find your next vintage treasure in person or online.

Hopefully, this article inspires to head to your nearest second hand store! It shows you can have a lot of fun and also help our planet. After all, there are lots of fabulous pre-loved clothes, accessories, and shoes out there!

The post 6 of the Best Vintage Clothing Influencers appeared first on Good On You.

Marks & Spencer is one of the UK’s most iconic brands that has been a high street feature for over a century. The brand caters to a diverse audience providing a plus size, maternity, and petite range. Marks & Spencer has launched a report dubbed “Plan A” to affirm its commitment to global social and environmental issues. But how well does M&S really measure up ethically with its commitment to animals, the planet, and its workers? Read on to find out as we answer the question: how ethical is Marks & Spencer? This article is based on the Marks & Spencer rating published in August 2021.

Environmental Impact

Marks & Spencer’s environment rating is ‘It’s A Start’. It uses some eco-friendly materials including recycled materials. It has set a science-based target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions generated from its own operations and supply chain and it is on track to meet its target. It had also set a deadline to eliminate all hazardous chemicals by 2020 which unfortunately wasn’t met, and it has set a new target but there is no evidence the brand is on track to meet it. And while it does implement some water reduction initiatives, there is still more work to be done.

Labour Conditions

For people, Marks & Spencer has received ‘It’s A Start’ once again. The brand received a middle-of-the-road score of 41-50% in the Fashion Transparency Index. And while it publishes detailed information about suppliers, audits, and policies, and some information about forced labour, gender equality, or freedom of association, there is a crucial ingredient missing: payment of a living wage. You can do better, M&S!

Animal Welfare

The brand also gets ‘It’s A Start’ for our animal friends. It has a formal animal welfare policy aligned with Five Freedoms, and traces some animal products to the first stage of production. While it does use wool, it comes from non-mulesed sheep, and its down is accredited by the Responsible Down Standard. However, it continues to use leather and exotic animal hair.

Overall Rating: It’s A Start

Overall, Good On You gives beloved high-street brand Marks & Spencer an ‘It’s A Start’: you can read more in our post about what our ‘It’s A Start’ rating really means. While it is making efforts across the board for people, the planet, and animals, we need to see more fulfilment of commitments across the supply chain for the brand to reach ‘Good’ again.

Note that Good On You ratings consider 100s of issues, and it is not possible to list every relevant issue in a summary of the brand’s performance. For more information, see our How We Rate page and our FAQs.

See the rating.

Good Swaps

Check out our handy guides to ethical maternity clothing and size inclusive affordable brands. There are also some ‘Good’ and ‘Great’ sustainable alternatives to Marks & Spencer below that might meet your needs!

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