What’s the problem with fast fashion?

Fast fashion. A term used so often in the past few years that one might begin to think of it as a buzzword instead of the business model it truly is. Fast fashion is defined as “cheap, trendy clothing that samples ideas from the catwalk or celebrity culture and turns them into garments in high street stores at breakneck speed to meet consumer demand.” Its model is based on trends and their popularity among consumers. In order to meet consumer demands, fast fashion brands must have the resources to not only manufacture these popular designs quickly, but also dispose of them with equal speed to make room for incoming trends. That’s why brands like ZARA and Forever 21 are so popular—they’re selling you the latest styles right when you want them, and taking them off the racks by the time you don’t.

As the name suggests, fast fashion has a fast-paced model that requires speedy production with little room for manufacturers and brands to consider the impact of their practices. By doing such things as using toxic, water-wasting materials to produce textiles, and neglecting safe workplace protocols as a means of acquiring cheap labour, the fast fashion industry has become a detriment to our environment, having a carbon footprint that rivals all other industrial productions.

The fashion industry today has been shaped by the fast fashion business models of the last three decades, so while many of the facts in this article cover the industry or textile production as a whole, it’s important to consider them within this fast fashion-driven context.

A fast-paced model that requires speedy production leaves little room for manufacturers and brands to consider the impact of their practices.

Water usage

A common misconception about garment production is that it only takes a mix of textiles and sewing methods to craft a t-shirt or pair of jeans—unfortunately, the mass consumption of water that occurs during the production process is often overlooked. But according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s report: A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion’s Future (2017), as much as 93 billion cubic metres of water are consumed annually in textile production.

90% of garments sold in the US are made with cotton or polyester, cotton being a major section of the water-guzzling garment train. The plant requires large amounts of water and pesticides to grow successfully and at scale. And that polyester we mentioned? It has its own environmental problems, which you can read about in our dedicated material guide.

But fabric production isn’t the only thing impacting fast fashion’s water usage. Untreated wastewater from dyeing and the treatment of textiles is being pumped back into our water systems, contaminating its contents with toxins and heavy metals. Textile dyeing and finishing processes are responsible for a significant portion of the world’s clean water pollution (though the numbers around this statistic are hard to confirm). Not only does this negatively impact the health of the water itself, but also the health of the animals that consume it, including us as humans.

Textile waste

Facts about textile waste are notoriously tricky to certify, but a 2017 Pulse of the Fashion Industry report by the Global Fashion Agenda and Boston Consulting Group suggested that in 2015, 92 million tonnes of textile waste was created. Given that this statistic is almost a decade old and clothing consumption is ever-increasing, it’s likely that the figure is now far higher.

In 2019, the European Parliament found that while clothing purchases by EU citizens had increased by around 40% per person “in just a few decades” as a result of the fast fashion model taking hold, less than half of used garments were sent for recycling, and only 1% were actually recycled into new clothes (this is largely down to challenges around fibre recycling). Today, the constant trends and guise of “affordability” cause many to believe that the clothing they buy is disposable—because if you’re going to keep buying the latest trends, you have to feel comfortable getting rid of the old ones, right? But while people are purchasing new garbs, their tossed-aside garments are being sent to landfills.

Speaking of landfills—WRAP’s Textiles Market Situation Report (2024) found that 727.7 kilotonnes of textiles were sent for incineration or landfill in 2021, and that’s just in the UK—never mind the rest of the world. While not all of this is fast fashion waste, the cheapening and increased consumption of fast fashion clothes has certainly contributed to the problem.

And in many countries, including the US, unsold clothing is exported overseas to be “graded” (sorted and resized) and sold in low/middle-income countries. Due to the fragility of some of these countries’ municipal waste systems, whatever isn’t sold in these second-hand markets becomes solid waste, creating health hazards by clogging of rivers, greenways, and parks. The toxicity of textile waste is slowly choking our environment and poisoning our ecosystem, for nothing more than the disposal of garments that fast fashion brands overproduce on the daily.

Carbon emissions

The apparel industry is one of the biggest industrial polluters on the planet. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation estimated that the industry’s 2015 greenhouse gas emissions were more than the aviation and shipping industries’ combined output, with an astounding 1.2 billion tonnes coming from textile production.

These calculations account for emissions released during textile production, but there’s also the carbon that is released during global transportation, when textiles are stuffed into landfills, and through consumer processes, such as washing and drying, to consider.

The fashion industry producing carbon emissions is an inescapable fact, but the vast quantities of clothing that are manufactured, transported, and discarded by the fast fashion sector, in particular, push these emissions to an inexcusable level.

Environmental injustice and poor working conditions

The environmental damage that occurs during the manufacturing of fast fashion is cyclical. Overproduction leads to the overuse of water, resulting in wastewater. An excess of textiles leads to increased garment disposal, resulting in carbon emissions. A vicious cycle, but its effect isn’t just found on land and sea. A major portion of the industry’s impact is in the quality of life of those who work in garment factories and live in areas affected by these textile and wastewater dumps.

The United States Environmental Protection Agency defines environmental justice as “just treatment and meaningful involvement of all people, regardless of income, race, colour, national origin, Tribal affiliation, or disability, in agency decision-making and other Federal activities that affect human health and the environment.” Basically, it is the environmental equity of all people, ensuring they have access to such things as clean water, safe homes, and healthy food. But for fast fashion brands, the only way to offer garments at a cheap price is through contradicting these rights and enforcing cheap labour.

The majority of the world’s clothing is produced in low and middle-income countries as a means of cheap labour. This means the solid waste produced from textiles and the chemicals released by toxic dyes are being dumped in their ecosystems, jeopardising the health and wellbeing of the workers involved in the process and those living nearby.

Because of the oftentimes challenging infrastructures of these low/middle-income areas, occupational hazards aren’t taken into consideration. Safety standards in workshops often go unenforced. Lung disease is caused by cotton dust and synthetic air particulates. Injuries are caused by repetitive motions and lack of sufficient breaks. Deaths have also been reported due to these hazardous conditions, such as the 2013 Rana Plaza collapse in Dhaka District, Bangladesh. After discovering cracks in the foundation on April 23rd, the eight-story commercial building, known as Rana Plaza, had an immediate evacuation of all employees and businesses. But the building owners decided neglected these warnings and forced their garment workers to return. Rana Plaza collapsed the following day. 2,500 people were injured. 1,134 died.

This is one of the more extreme and highly publicised cases, but it’s not an exception. It shows the true extent of these occupational hazards and workplace neglect. Some might argue that a clothing brand can’t be held responsible for the choices made by building owners and factory managers, but these fast fashion brands have continued to choose unregulated forms of manufacturing, therefore placing affordability and fast production over safety.

What can change

Everything we have covered so far about fashion’s environmental impact might have come as a bit of a rude awakening, but don’t lose hope: some steps have been taken to pull back the industry’s footprint. Back in the summer of 2019, the global coalition The Fashion Pact was created, where luxury and fast fashion brands (including Adidas, Chanel, and H&M) developed a common agenda to begin more environmentally friendly ways of production. Unfortunately, this significant gesture has yet to be the saviour the industry needs. Only 59 brands have joined this coalition, which is low in comparison to the hundreds of brands out there. If all of these brands committed themselves to being more responsible, the industry’s carbon footprint could be significantly reduced by 2030. But it isn’t just the fast fashion companies that need to change.

We as consumers not only need to rethink who we’re buying our clothing from, but how we’re handling that clothing. This includes repairing, donating, or reselling our old garments, instead of just throwing them in the trash, where they will inevitably wind up in a landfill. It means adopting handwashing practices where possible, to avoid excess microfibres being dumped in our oceans from washing machines. We can also make sure all packaging is properly disposed of.

Good On You has long been committed to updating ratings methodology and content as the industry shifts, including guidance on which brands to embrace, and which to avoid. With more consumers interested and invested in more sustainable fashion, here’s hoping that enough pressure will be placed on the industry, and that fashion as a whole will begin to slow down.

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If you want to inject a little festivity into your wardrobe while still approaching the holiday season with a more sustainable attitude, we’ve found some amazing ethical festive outfits.

Festive outfits ideas from “Good” and “Great” brands

December is here, 2023 is almost finished, and the holidays are officially upon us. ‘Tis the season for decadent meals, festive decorations, and time spent with loved ones. But with all the shopping we’re about to do, it’s also the season of mass consumerism.

Let’s face it; the holidays are one of the most common excuses to add new pieces to our closets. It can be hard to say no to some indulgent purchases, from the new sweater dresses and seasonal sales to the collections of shimmering shoes that are like ornaments for the feet. What’s even more difficult is saying no to the fast fashion boom that’s almost too tempting with its velveteen and sequins designs attached to cut-rate price tags. But with this list, you’ll be one step closer to starting 2024 on a more eco-conscious foot.

We know the difficulties of 2023 have placed limitations on this year’s holiday season again, so we’ve tailored our list of the best ethical outfits to fit all circumstances. Whether you decide to go out or stay in, our collection of “Good” and “Great” brands will have you decked in garments made with cruelty-free production methods, quality materials, and sleek cuts. After all, this is the season of giving.

For that holiday movie marathon

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What is eco-anxiety?

In 2017, eco-anxiety was defined as “the chronic fear of environmental doom.” In the past, this kind of fear was usually relegated to communities that have experienced (or were at risk of experiencing) drought, fatal floods, and other cases of extreme weather. In fact, people who have experienced extreme weather conditions are 50% more likely to suffer from mental health issues such as anxiety and depression. Now that the environment’s deterioration is common knowledge, we’re all feeling the effects. This form of anxiety is sweeping across the globe.

Like your typical generalised anxiety, eco-anxiety can cause feelings of loss, helplessness, and even depression due to the perceived inability to make a real difference in climate change.

Like your typical generalised anxiety, eco-anxiety can cause feelings of loss, helplessness, and even depression due to the perceived inability to make a real difference in climate change. Other symptoms include existential dread, grieving environmental losses (such as animal extinctions and dying reefs), fatalistic thinking, obsessive thoughts, and troubling sleeping. When analyzing worldwide climate perception, American (North, Central, and South), African, and West European populations are currently more concerned with climate change than those in Asian and Middle Eastern countries. In America alone, 70% of the population was worried about climate change in 2018, with 51% feeling helpless. But a significant portion of eco-anxiety sufferers are children and young adults.

70% of 18-24 year olds in the UK were more worried about climate change in 2020 than in 2019, and in 2018, 87% of Australian tweens considered climate change something to be concerned about. In 2020, 57% of American teenagers reported feeling afraid of climate change, with 52% feeling angry—both higher rates than the percentages in American adults. Only 29% felt optimistic. After the UN issued its 12-year-warning stating we only have 12 years to cut back on our emissions or suffer a massive environmental fallout, Millennials, Gen Zs, and our up-and-coming generations are beginning to feel like the world is literally on their shoulders.

Admittedly, 12 years is enough to make anyone feel anxious about the status of our Earth. Given the plethora of issues and emissions that have caused our environment’s deterioration, it’s easy to feel helpless and horrified at our futures. A healthy dose of fear always helps in remaining proactive and vigilant. But, if you believe that you’re suffering from eco-anxiety, here are a few ways you can stay calm in times of uncertainty:

What can you do?

We can’t change the Earth without changing ourselves in the process, so the next time a bout of eco-anxiety overtakes you, turn the lens inward.

Stressing about something you’re not actively working to change is a vicious cycle. Many of us worry about the environment, but we don’t take the steps necessary to reduce our carbon footprint because we’re stuck in our ways. We can’t change the Earth without changing ourselves in the process, so the next time a bout of eco-anxiety overtakes you, turn the lens inward. Of course, anxious thoughts aren’t always logical nor easily controllable, and sometimes we can’t make changes for a myriad of reasons. Still, we should make an effort as far as practicable and possible for us as individuals.

Reduce your footprint

Your first step can be as simple as taking fifteen-minute showers instead of thirty-minute ones (we all do it). Making sure you have a reliable “trash-recycle-compost” system in your home. Cutting back on your meat intake. Buying sustainable clothing, and disposing of unwanted clothing accordingly, whether reselling, refurbishing, or recycling. Even investing in “green” vehicles, such as electric or hybrid, or (dare I say it?) supplementing your car usage with public transportation can help offset some of your footprint. Though you’re a single person, you’ll be able to get some satisfaction knowing you’re doing your part in keeping our Earth’s emissions down.

Help out in your community

Maybe your footprint is in reasonable standing, but it isn’t enough. If that’s the case, joining national and local organizations dedicated to climate awareness might ease the burden. Not only would it allow you to be more involved in the discussion on climate change, but it would also surround you with like-minded people. This offsets some of the negative symptoms present when you’re alone and allows you to share your concerns with others. You don’t have to carry the weight of your anxiety alone.

Many cities and towns have their own organizations, but if you’re looking for an international organization, a couple of good ones are 350, which is helping to fight the fossil fuel industry, Greenpeace, which has connections to the United Nations to campaign against such actions as deforestation and genetic engineering, and Sunrise Movement, a youth organization of over 400 hubs.

Stay informed

This might seem counterproductive, as staying informed may fuel your anxiety, but this is a significant one. It can be challenging to keep thoughts from festering. Hearing about the 12-year-warning could’ve triggered many discomforts a few paragraphs ago. It’s easy for information like this to spiral, leading to assumptions that, as many living with anxiety already know, can seem like factual information. As they say in the mental health and mindfulness communities, “thoughts are not facts.” Staying in-the-know on climate issues will allow you to smother your assumptions with facts and statistics and choose what is worth being concerned about and what is simply a product of your anxiety.

Don’t be afraid to disconnect

This section could be confusing, as staying informed was just highlighted. But just because you’re keeping your ear to the facts doesn’t mean you can’t take a break. When specific issues become very significant and personal in our lives, the thought of placing it on the backburner seems like a betrayal, especially if it’s something as serious as the state of our environment. However, if you find yourself unable to focus on anything else, one of the best things you can do is lay it to rest. Decide on a day, and dedicate it to concentrating on other passions. Choose not to discuss it when spending time with friends. Disconnect from your usual media outlets that might trigger you. Give yourself a break. Feel free to connect the next day or week, if that’s what you wish, but allow yourself some distance, so you don’t overextend yourself.

Engage in nature

Just as you would embrace a friend who’s going through a difficult time, do the same with our environment. Remind yourself why you care so deeply and engage in the natural resources around you. Go for a beautiful hike on a nearby trail. Visit national parks and nature conservatories. Spend a day at the beach and swim in the ocean. Instead of focussing on what we’re losing, try spending this time focussing on what we have. Expressing gratitude is a significant step in a more mindful existence. Increasing the time you spend in nature is a simple way to keep you relaxed and shift some of your mindset to the liveliness of our environment, as opposed to the deterioration.

Meditation and exercise

Any form of anxiety can manifest physically, and eco-anxiety is no different. Between headaches, stomach aches, trouble breathing, and muscle tensions, there’s a variety of ways anxious thoughts can show up in your body. It’s essential to have a set group of tactics in your arsenal, just in case your anxiety gets too painful.

Meditation is a tactic we often hear when discussing mental health and mindfulness, but there’s a good reason for that. Like yoga, meditation is more of a practice than a lighthearted activity, teaching you how to center yourself, focus on your body, and remain present. If you have any form of anxiety, the prospect of needing to stay present seems like a daunting task. Still, meditation, coupled with deep breathing exercises and grounding techniques (i.e. feel your feet on the ground), will allow you to work at your own pace and discover which practices help you release your anxious thoughts. Even 3-5 minute daily meditations are a great first step in easing your anxiety.

If meditation proves to be too stationary for you, developing a regular exercise routine might do the trick! Though exercise is known to increase your heart rate instead of decreasing it, like meditation, getting into your body with intentional breathing and movements will divert your focus from your eco-anxiety and into your actions. Whether you’re jogging around your neighborhood, going on weekly bike rides, or partaking in a workout app, your mind and body will thank you for the endorphins and extra dose of health.

Know when to seek professional help

We would be remiss if we didn’t recommend seeking further assistance if you feel like your eco-anxiety is getting out of control. Though it may seem like a smaller, generational form of anxiety, it can still take a toll on your mental health and well-being, and get in the way of your day-to-day life. Think of it this way: we only know the facts we do because this has become a more extensive psychological phenomenon, so don’t be ashamed to ask for that extra bit of help and guidance, should you need it. You can call numerous mental health lines as a starting point, no matter where you live.

You might be interested in taking your awareness a step further. You’re in luck: Good On You is here to keep you informed on the environmental effects of the apparel industry, and which brands to avoid when wanting to reduce your eco-footprint. Taking steps such as these will allow you to live more intentionally, decreasing the uncertainty you feel surrounding climate change. The more steps we all take, the more we can change the tide and guarantee a healthier Earth by that 12-year mark.

Author bio: Delilah Smith is freelance journalist, storyteller, and sustainable fashion advocate from Oakland, CA. After changing her career path from editorial to film, she balances her position at Pixar Animation Studios with her Good On You contributions, returning back to editorial to spread awareness on the environmental effects of fast fashion, and give readers more eco-conscious choices. When not writing, you can find her on an aerial silk, which everyone should try at least once! You can find her on Instagram @delilah.the.dahlia

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Lingerie can play an important role in anyone’s wardrobe, whether anyone aside from you gets to see it or not. Love how you look and feel in your lacy undergarments with these responsible brands creating more sustainable lingerie you’ll love to rock, no matter your bod.

Lovingly crafted lingerie for everyone

Let’s talk about sex appeal. Its role in fashion has become more nuanced throughout the years, making “sexy” and “sensual” much more inclusive labels. It isn’t just about how you look, but how you feel. For years, the French have amped up their sensuality through the use of lingerie, even in the simplest of moments. Whether someone’s going to see their dainty garments isn’t important; it’s about decorating your curves in a way that makes you feel confident, comfortable, and sexy, without the need of third-party validation. Luckily, this mentality has found its place in lingerie’s general culture—including sustainable lingerie—with more consumers across the entire gender spectrum wearing bustiers and garter belts as a means of decorating their wardrobes, dethroning sexual stigmas, and promoting body acceptance, which is the very essence of sex appeal.

So in your journey towards a more sustainable wardrobe, why not turn your attention to what’s underneath? We’ve come a long way from the ‘When-In-Doubt-Victoria’s-Secret’ mentality, and in recent years, some of the most beautiful brands of sustainable lingerie have popped up! Brands of the softest materials, boldest designs, and most eco-conscious production methods that place our environment at the forefront of sensual apparel.

Tempted? We’ve put together our 12 favourite more responsible lingerie brands, catering to an array of personalities, body types, and styles. Whether you’re a fan of lacy frills or opt for a simpler approach to your undergarments, there’s something for you below.

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Almost every style is timeless. That might be a bold statement to make, but most of the time, it isn’t what you’re wearing, but how you wear it. Every year, looks we thought we had done away with make a comeback, giving designers new ways of incorporating them back into the mainstream—and 2020 was no exception!

Although the Covid pandemic made it impossible to show off looks in person, it didn’t stop vintage fashion from thriving. Vintage influencers are more popular than ever, vintage shopping is being embraced for its sustainability, comfort and individuality, and the popularity of era-based content like “The Queen’s Gambit” have caused even the most secular shopper to embrace the pre-2000s fare. But even if true vintage shopping is sustainable, there are many fast fashion brands who are cashing in on these popular trends, making it hard to distinguish the real from the fake. Luckily, we’ve put together a list of 2020’s most popular vintage styles, the tried-and-true vintage shops where you can find them, and the ‘Good’ and ‘Great’ rated sustainable brands for when you want something a bit more vintage “inspired”.

High waisted jeans

It goes without saying that high-rise denim is a classic! Becoming common in 70s fashion, this style has been a staple for its comfortability, versatility, and ability to work with a variety of body types. No wardrobe is complete without a pair of these old faithfuls, and if you want a pair as classic as the look itself, Levi’s Second Hand is your go-to site. Not only does it allow you to buy vintage Levi’s, and rock the “original jean,” but you’re also able to sell any Levi’s you’ve been meaning to discard. Levi’s themselves might only have an ‘It’s A Start’ rating, but they have dedicated themselves to reducing the fabric waste of their product. However, if a fresh pair of jeans is what you’re looking for, Nudie Jeans is a slow denim brand you can trust, with all of your favourite cuts like this classic high waisted pair made from organic cotton.

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At 25-years-old, I realized that what you put on your body makes as much of an environmental and social impact as what you put inside it. Transitioning to a sustainable wardrobe is a decision that allows you to support ethical brands, while also maintaining your sense of style. So, why don’t more people do it? Often, they simply don’t know where to start. Ethical shopping still isn’t as highly publicized as it should be (though we are helping to change that), so to aid those who would like to make the transition, here are some tips that have been helping me as I take the sustainable route.

Declutter

One thing I love about decluttering my wardrobe is discovering that the more clothes I get rid of, the more refined my sense of style becomes. Once I stopped filling up my closet and began to actually appraise it, I realized I had more clothes than I needed, and that what I kept equaled what I loved. You gotta get rid of the mess to make room for the best.

The main way I do this is through selling my clothing. Selling clothing is basically a win-win: you get some of your funds back on a past purchase, while also helping to increase the exchange of clothing and cut down on fabric waste. Got same popular brands you’d like to get rid of? ThredUp is your destination. Found yourself with a plethora of vintage garbs? Go by Etsy! There are plenty of websites catering to different styles, and hungry consumers willing to buy fresh threads (at least, fresh to them). And if you don’t want to declutter in bulk, do a “buy-one-give-one” system. Want to buy a new shirt? Sell one before you do. Soon, you’ll get so used to getting rid of wasted clothes, you’ll begin to do it without spending a single dime.

Beware of ‘on trend’ shopping

You know why it took me so long to go ethical? “On trend” shopping. The convenience of buying something cheap and cute that I would adore…for maybe six months. Fast fashion brands make their money on “cute”; the latest and most popular trends that are like sugar cravings for your wardrobe. These cravings can break you down, and keep you going back to these brands for a quick fix.

If you’re beginning to shop ethically on a budget, you have to beware of shopping “on trend.” It’s a bottomless money pit that keeps you in shopping season at least three times a year. Instead, start getting into the mindset that whatever your go-to brand is selling, there will always be an almost identical version of it at an ethical brand. In fact, you can use Good On You as a resource, where you’ll find an extensive fashion directory, as well as articles about everything from shoe brands to leather alternatives.

Better budget = better wardrobe

Let’s get down to it⁠—the “B” word. We all hate it, but we all need it. It’s no secret that slow fashion brands can be pretty expensive, at least compared to their unethical counterparts. But these higher prices are what come with basics like paying workers a living wage and using conflict-free materials. When shopping on a budget, this price point is actually a GOOD thing! Facing the dilemma of spending more money causes you to want less clothing. It makes you conscientious of the ethical brands you love, the items you love, and whether they’re worth the buy.

If you’re down to budget, start by making a list of the finances you take home every month, minus the necessary expenses (food, transportation, rent, etc.), and then calculate how much you’re realistically able to spend on clothes in a month. Instead of shopping once a week, shop once every other week, or better yet, once a month, to stretch your funds. Slow and steady keeps that money in your pocket (or your savings account) and allows you to accumulate it. Accumulation = affordability.

To-Buy List

Surprisingly, my fashion budget has been going better than expected! Most of the success is down to the budget, but a nice portion of it is because of my to-buy list. Since the clothes I’m buying are a tad more expensive, it takes a certain amount of proactivity to buckle down and really think about what I want to buy and when. So, I’ve started making lists. To-buy lists are a great way to narrow down your purchases, keep track of how much money you’ll be spending, and space out the charges accordingly. Depending on what’s more important to you, you could decide to buy your desired pair of shoes at the beginning of the month, and that adorable dress at the end. Here’s my current list:

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