Amy Miles – Good On You https://goodonyou.eco Thousands of brand ratings, articles and expertise on ethical and sustainable fashion. Know the impact of brands on people and planet. Wed, 24 Apr 2024 13:00:48 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.3 Is Luxury Fashion Sustainable? Here’s What Our Ratings Say https://goodonyou.eco/is-luxury-fashion-sustainable/ Tue, 23 Apr 2024 11:58:47 +0000 https://goodonyou.eco/?p=46064 It’s more expensive, but is it more sustainable? We look at the data to find out what luxury fashion’s impact really is, and key issues are.   In 2023, the luxury group LVMH became the first European company to surpass a value of US$500 billion, while similar businesses including Richemont have also reported upticks in […]

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It’s more expensive, but is it more sustainable? We look at the data to find out what luxury fashion’s impact really is, and key issues are.

 

In 2023, the luxury group LVMH became the first European company to surpass a value of US$500 billion, while similar businesses including Richemont have also reported upticks in sales. It’s a sure sign that the luxury fashion industry’s significant power and influence isn’t waning. Which raises the question: with as powerful as luxury brands are, how are they faring for sustainability?

Luxury brands certainly like to speak a big game about sustainability. At the Global Fashion Summit Copenhagen in 2023, Antoine Arnault, LVMH’s head of image and environment, said that luxury fashion is “sustainable by nature”, but our ratings tell a different story.

While the overproduction of cheap clothing isn’t an issue in luxury as it is with fast fashion giants like SHEIN and Temu, there are other factors that urgently need addressing across the industry—luxury included. And not least is the payment of living wages to workers throughout entire supply chains.

Read on to find out the most significant challenges facing the industry, and how the situation looks right now.

Is luxury fashion more sustainable than fast fashion?

Luxury fashion is often defined by exclusivity, high prices, and high quality. And while there are many sustainability issues within the luxury sector, much of the widely publicised destructive practices in the wider industry have been driven by the growth of fast fashion brands.

The explosion of overproduction, for instance, is a key problem within ultra fast fashion as popularised by the likes of SHEIN, Boohoo, and Temu, which reportedly add thousands of individual styles to their websites daily. Luxury fashion doesn’t manufacture products at the same excessive levels. There’s no doubt that luxury fashion has increased the number of collections that are put out through the year, and our fashion-as-entertainment era means luxury brands also play a role in creating the demand for fashion trends. But let’s face it—landfills in Chile and Ghana aren’t filled with Gucci loafers or handbags from The Row.

Another key consideration is how quality relates to longevity. Historically, luxury brands have given more attention, time, and artisanship to garment production, employing craft techniques and tailoring methods that undoubtedly mean an item of clothing will last longer than one that has been sewn together in a rush.

But “not as bad as fast fashion” is a low bar, and it’s not that simple when it comes to considering luxury fashion’s complex supply chains and historic lack of transparency. In fact, when we look at the ratings for leading luxury brands, we see many unsustainable trends, too. Some matters are bigger in luxury than in fast fashion, such as the use of exotic animal skin and fur, while others, like poor working conditions and a lack of transparency around water management, are just as prevalent at both ends of the industry.

So how does luxury fashion rate?

Our data shows that the majority of luxury brands are not doing or disclosing nearly enough to address the sustainability issues in the industry. An abysmal 75% of luxury brands received our two lowest ratings, “We Avoid” and “Not Good Enough”, including the world’s biggest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton. You’d expect better of the industry leader.

Only 10% are “Good” or “Great”. Notably, those with these two highest ratings are mostly small brands.

What are the biggest sustainability issues in luxury fashion?

So why do the majority of luxury brands rate so poorly? Let’s explore some of the most enduring sustainability issues within luxury fashion.

The use of animal skin and fur

Thankfully, in the last two decades, most of the biggest luxury brands and retailers have banned and even spoken out against the use of fur—historically an ultimate signifier of luxury. But the likes of Fendi, which was founded as a furrier, Louis Vuitton, and Max Mara continue to use it in their collections.

Exotic animal skin is more commonly used than fur and while there has been progress in eliminating the material, we’re still seeing far too many brands prominently incorporating it in their designs. Hermès, for example, attempts to justify its continued use of alligator, crocodile and ostrich by announcing what it positioned as “the first specific standards for supply chains for these precious skins.” “At the end of 2023, 100% of Hermès’ supply of crocodile hides came from certified sites,” the brand stated—which does nothing to address the fact that crocodiles are farmed and killed solely for the perceived luxury of their skins.

Human rights

The majority of luxury brands received our two lowest ratings for labour when we analysed the publicly available data. This underscores how there’s still a long way to go in this area.

Luxury brands like to be seen as advocates for responsible garment manufacturing, but this often involves sentimentalising techniques that are traditionally considered artisanal or highly skilled (and therefore more highly paid), such as embroidery, tailoring, and dyeing methods, while disregarding more general manufacturing skills such as machine sewing.

And in 2023, the Fashion Transparency Index published data showing that 99% of 250 of the world’s largest brands that it analysed don’t disclose the percentage of workers in their supply chain earning a living wage.

True sustainability for people in the fashion industry means upholding respect for all garment workers—and that just isn’t happening yet. A 2018 investigation by the New York Times uncovered a “shadow economy” in Italy’s fashion industry, in which “thousands of low-paid home workers create luxury garments without contracts or insurance,” with workers receiving as little as €1 for each metre they sew. And reporting since then has found many similar examples of labour exploitation in luxury supply chains. In 2024 Giorgio Armani is under investigation for labour violations and having “used subcontractors in the Milan area that employed undocumented migrants for the production of Armani bags, leather goods, and other accessories,” according the The Fashion Law.

There’s also a link to cultural sustainability here, and the appropriation of traditional techniques from cultures around the world in the name of luxury craftsmanship, without giving the necessary credit, payment or engaging in a dialogue with the communities at the heart of the crafts involved. Isabel Marant is one of many luxury brands called out by the Mexican government for appropriating Indigenous artisanship in recent years. (It’s worth noting this issue is common in fast fashion, too.)

99% of the world's largest brands don't disclose what percentage of workers get paid living wages.

Carbon footprints

Greenhouse gas emissions and large carbon footprints aren’t unique to luxury. The UN Environment Program has determined that as much as 10% of the global carbon output comes from the fashion industry broadly, though estimates vary—and knowing what percentage luxury fashion accounts for, in particular, is challenging.

The luxury sector has a responsibility to take meaningful action to mitigate its impact and demonstrate best practice to the rest of the industry.

And then there is carbon offsetting. Data from our recent report revealed that for brands, purchasing carbon offsets has become a distraction from actually taking meaningful action to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. What’s more, the true effectiveness of carbon offset programs has been called into question by experts and investigators in recent years. And although our report covered the whole industry, we noted that luxury brands including Gucci, Saint Laurent, and Balenciaga, have all purchased offsets as a means to reach net zero. It’s worth noting that in 2024, brands are increasingly backing away from these net zero claims, partly due to regulatory action and proposed legislation. But the bottom line? We need to see brands taking real actions throughout their supply chain to reduce emissions, rather than buying their way out of them.

Transparency seems secondary to exclusivity

Luxury brands can be reluctant to be transparent about their supply chains because these manufacturers, fabrics, and artisans are what make the products exclusive or “special”. Although sometimes, a lack of transparency is because luxury products are made in the same factories that fast fashion brands use.

Exclusivity is also the reason why some luxury brands have opted to burn excess fabrics, clothes, and accessories—they’d rather uphold rarity than reduce waste. Reports of this unsustainable practice have caused outrage amongst consumers, and some of those responsible, like Burberry, have since committed to ending the incineration of unsold products, while France has recently banned it.

There are some signs that things are nudging in the right direction. In 2023’s Fashion Transparency Index, Fashion Revolution found that more luxury brands are sharing details of their factories, and notably, Gucci received a score of 80% for its transparency—the highest of any luxury brand analysed in the research. “Transparency has evolved to the point that it has become part of the identity of what it means to be luxury,” Liv Simpliciano, Fashion Revolution’s policy and research manager, told us. “When we started our work, we were told that luxury brands publishing their supplier lists was a distant dream but now, many do.”

Despite that, transparency in the industry is only improving at a snail’s pace, and we need to see luxury brands taking the lead and fully disclosing details of their supply chains instead of waiting for legislation to push them into doing the right thing.

Exclusivity is why some luxury brands burn excess fabrics, clothes, and accessories

Is the quiet luxury trend more sustainable?

Sometimes, brands masquerade as doing the right thing through aesthetics, price tags and perceived artisanship, and a case in point is the quiet luxury trend.

In theory, quiet luxury could be a sustainable approach to fashion. The concept of forgoing conspicuous branding and opting for high quality, usually minimalistic clothes that are carefully selected and designed to last sounds like a good idea. But, in many ways, it’s become merely another fleeting trend driven by influencers and distilled by fast fashion giants. While investing in a capsule wardrobe and committing to owning fewer timeless pieces are all good moves we can take as consumers, the most popular quiet luxury items tend to rely heavily on fabrics such as cashmere, leather, and wool—these can all have a significant impact on people, the planet, and animals.

What’s more, Good On You’s data shows that the brands championing quiet luxury are all rated poorly—Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli and Jil Sander are “Not Good Enough” for their sustainability efforts, while Max Mara and The Row both received “We Avoid” ratings. Slowing down your fashion consumption? That’s a good thing. But making the “slow fashion” aesthetic into merely another trend to chase? That’s the luxury status quo.

What are more sustainable luxury brands?

As long as those involved in luxury supply chains aren’t paid living wages, materials are not sourced responsibly, and parts of the industry remain shrouded in secrecy, the sector just can’t be considered sustainable.

But there are some brands leading the way, including Maggie Marilyn, Stella McCartney, Edeline Lee, and Mother of Pearl, which are all rated “Good” by our world-leading analysts. Our list of the top-rated more sustainable luxury brands has the full breakdown of “Good” and “Great” companies to know about.

Of the large luxury groups in the fashion industry, Kering arguably has the loudest voice on sustainability. Almost all of its owned brands (except Brioni) are rated “It’s a Start” in our directory, including Gucci and Saint Laurent, and while there’s lots of room for improvement amongst them, this is undoubtedly a step in the right direction. (So too, is Kering’s support for the London College of Fashion’s sustainable fashion e-learning course with the platform FutureLearn, which launched in 2018.)

Some might be sceptical, but we need luxury businesses with the most power to lead by example in order to transform the industry for the better.

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10 Fashion Revolutionaries’ Visions for the Next Decade in Sustainable Fashion https://goodonyou.eco/10-fashion-revolutionaries-hopes-for-change/ Thu, 18 Apr 2024 09:54:27 +0000 https://goodonyou.eco/?p=45976 In just 10 years, Fashion Revolution has built an astonishing network of global activists united in their hope for a better industry. Here, the organisation’s country coordinators from around the world share their hopes for the future. A decade of pushing the fashion industry forward Fashion Revolution has achieved a lot in its first decade. […]

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In just 10 years, Fashion Revolution has built an astonishing network of global activists united in their hope for a better industry. Here, the organisation’s country coordinators from around the world share their hopes for the future.

A decade of pushing the fashion industry forward

Fashion Revolution has achieved a lot in its first decade. Founded by Orsola de Castro and Carry Somers, the organisation has launched highly visible campaigns like #WhoMadeMyClothes and Good Clothes, Fair Pay—taking the most pressing issues in fashion to a wide audience. It also created the Global Fashion Transparency Index, an annual research project that now charts the transparency of 250 of the world’s largest and most powerful brands in order to leverage citizens’ activism and call for regulation in the industry.

To commemorate the organisation’s tenth anniversary, we asked its activists where the most urgent change needs to happen and what their hopes are for the next decade in sustainable fashion.

 

Martina Mareková Kuipers, country coordinator, Slovakia

‘More design, less waste’—on hope for the next 10 years 

“As little textile waste as possible—in production and also in our wardrobes. More design, less waste. And it goes without saying that there should be some sustainability in the lives of garment workers producing these sustainable designs. The biggest changes need to be done in the legislation, and that will effect positive changes in the whole industry.”

 

Ysabl Dobles, country coordinator, Philippines

‘Holding brands accountable’—on where we need change

“The transformation I yearn for in the fashion industry centres on transparency—a beacon guiding us towards a more ethical and accountable future. Transparency isn’t just about shedding light on supply chains and production processes, it’s about holding brands accountable for their actions or inactions.

“Imagine a world where every garment tag tells a story, revealing not just its style, but also its journey from sourcing to creation, and the impact it leaves on both people and the planet.”

 

Melissa Tan, country coordinator, Malaysia

‘Cut off the puppet strings of marketing and greenwashing’—on hope for the future

“My hope is for our society and culture to significantly shift into a deep connection with our world and all living things. There would no longer be a differentiation between ‘sustainable’ or ‘mainstream’ fashion. Fashion would just be authentic self-expression centred in deep appreciation and care for the people and resources that went into every garment. The true beauty and joy of fashion.

“And I would like to see change happen in our relationship with fashion. Most of us are manipulated into thinking what we have and who we are is not enough. That we have to be something else, that there’s always going to be the next trend to chase, or outfit to buy and mimic.

“I want to see us all reinvent how we relate to fashion and transform it into healthy self-expression and creativity. We cut off the puppet strings of marketing and greenwashing, and become a society that has dismantled the programming of overconsumption.”

We cut off the puppet strings of marketing and greenwashing, and become a society that has dismantled the programming of overconsumption.

Melissa Tan – country coordinator, Malaysia

Shruti Singh, country coordinator, India

‘Designing for circularity’—on the urgent change we need

“The most significant change needed in the fashion industry lies at its very core: designing for circularity. Imagine a future where fashion is crafted with purpose at every decision—where shorter supply chains, culturally rooted practices, and the use of alternative planet-friendly materials become the norm.

“This means tackling overproduction, turning our backs on toxic dyes and materials, committing to durability, and ensuring that what is created is built to last and can be safely integrated back into fashion supply chains.

“I believe that radical and honest progress towards a regenerative fashion ecosystem demands open-source collaboration within the industry and a shared commitment to reimagining the future of fashion.”

People gather for Fashion Revolution India

A Fashion Revolution India event

Elise Epp, country coordinator, Canada

‘We can’t rely on corporations to ‘choose’’—on where we need change

“Fashion Revolution started with the question #WhoMadeMyClothes? yet issues of safety and justice for workers still need to be meaningfully addressed by the fashion industry. Brands will release “sustainable” collections focused on materials, but not a living wage collection or a safe working conditions collection.

“We cannot rely on corporations to choose to make these changes themselves—they have shown that they are not reliable self-regulators. Fortunately, there are movements working towards groundbreaking legislation that really could transform the industry. I hope these laws are passed with robust enforcement mechanisms and then replicated around the world.”

 

Haleema Mekani, country coordinator, Zimbabwe

‘The world has a lot to learn about how to embody the principles of circular living’—on where we need change

“As Fashion Revolution reaches its first decade milestone, I would like to see the most change happen in the way we see, report, and understand the ways small communities—especially in Africa—have championed a sustainable creative lifestyle not as a newfound need but as a natural way of being.

“The world has a lot to learn about how to embody the principles of circular living, sustainable practices, and working with nature as the most organic and innately logical thing to do, and this is a way of living that has existed in many Indigenous African communities for centuries. If we begin to change the perception of Africa and have more contextualised narratives to sustainability, a whole world of adaptable and meaningful tools can become available to change people and the world.”

The world has a lot to learn about how to embody the principles of circular living, sustainable practices, and working with nature as the most organic and innately logical thing to do… this way of living has existed in many Indigenous African communities for centuries.

Haleema Mekani – country coordinator, Zimbabwe

Ariane Piper, country coordinator, Germany

‘Consumers would understand that their shopping behaviour has a crucial impact’–on change in the future

“I wish that consumers would understand that their shopping behaviour has a crucial impact on our planet and people. Consumers need to understand that not only the style of clothing in their wardrobes are making a difference but their choices on the amount of clothing they buy.”

People holding up Fashion Revolution signs

Fashion Revolution US attendees

Wangari Nyanjui, country coordinator, Kenya

‘Africans take up their rightful place as innovators’—on hope for the next decade

“My hope is that Africans take up their rightful place as innovators, creators and custodians of sustainable practices and knowledge.”

 

Macy Nguyen, country coordinator, Vietnam

‘Over-reliance on trends and the culture of constant consumption’—on what fashion should leave behind

“I hope that fashion will leave behind its over-reliance on trends and the culture of constant consumption and production that it fosters. The fast-paced trend culture perpetuates a rapid turnover of clothing styles, leading to excessive waste and environmental degradation.

“Instead, I hope the fashion industry will shift towards a more timeless and enduring approach to design, where quality, craftsmanship, and longevity take precedence. This would encourage consumers to invest in pieces that they truly love and will cherish for years to come, reducing the need for constant purchasing and minimising the industry’s footprint.

“It would also prioritise the preservation of traditional fashion practices and cultures. By valuing the rich heritage of various communities around the world, the industry can foster greater inclusivity and diversity, while also promoting sustainable practices that honour the planet and its people.”

Isabella Luglio, educational and project coordinator, Brazil

‘The conversation about degrowth in the fashion sector will be common ground’—on hope for the future

“I hope that in the next 10 years, the conversation about degrowth in the fashion sector will be common ground and people and nature will be placed above profits.

“I also hope that fashion leaves deforestation practices behind. It’s absurd that the industry still relies on biodiversity destruction in the Global South for the production of clothes.”

 

How to get involved in the Fashion Revolution

The great thing about Fashion Revolution’s global approach is that you don’t have to be in a specific place to help bring about change. From asking brands #WhoMadeMyClothes? to joining an interactive webinar, there are lots of actions you can take. Read our guide on what to do this Fashion Revolution Week, and then check out our interview with the person behind the Fashion Transparency Index, policy and research manager Liv Simpliciano.

 

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Liv Simpliciano on What a Decade of Fashion Revolution Can Teach Us https://goodonyou.eco/liv-simpliciano-interview/ Thu, 11 Apr 2024 09:43:04 +0000 https://goodonyou.eco/?p=45875 Has fashion changed for the better since Fashion Revolution’s founding in 2014? What impact do activists and policy play in all this? And what should we be carrying into the next decade of sustainable fashion?  We spoke to Liv Simpliciano, policy and research manager at Fashion Revolution to find out all this on the eve […]

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Has fashion changed for the better since Fashion Revolution’s founding in 2014? What impact do activists and policy play in all this? And what should we be carrying into the next decade of sustainable fashion? 

We spoke to Liv Simpliciano, policy and research manager at Fashion Revolution to find out all this on the eve of the organisation’s 10th anniversary. 

Meet Fashion Revolution’s Liv Simpliciano

Since 2014, Fashion Revolution has been campaigning for better transparency and accountability in the fashion industry to ensure the safety of the people involved in garment production, and the longevity of our environment. Founded in response to the Rana Plaza disaster, the organisation has since launched campaigns like #WhoMadeMyClothes? and annual research called the Fashion Transparency Index, which now charts the transparency of 250 of the world’s largest and most powerful brands to leverage citizens’ activism and call for regulation in the industry.

As policy and research manager at Fashion Revolution, Liv Simpliciano draws on her passion for protecting and advocating for the people who make our clothes, and the environment, to weigh in on how governments and those in positions of power can change the industry for the better. She is particularly interested in the just, clean energy transition in fashion and stopping waste colonialism.

Simpliciano leads the organisation’s annual Fashion Transparency Index—a key driver of improved transparency in the industry since 2017. And if you’ve ever been to one of Fashion Revolution’s events and seen Simpliciano speak then you’ll be familiar with her compelling presence—something that is not only tangible in person but in the interview that follows, too.

Read on to find out the issues she believes are most pressing to address, and the role that community has played in improving things so far.

 

8 Q&As on activism, policymaking, and more

1. Q: What are the biggest changes you’ve seen in sustainable fashion in the decade since Fashion Revolution Week started?

A: We know that whilst transparency alone cannot prevent tragedy, it certainly is an enabling force for change and remediation. When the movement for transparency began, transparency was a radical notion. Activists had to physically dig through the rubble at the site of the Rana Plaza collapse in 2013, then a few years later in 2017, 32 out of 100 brands disclosed their first-tier supplier lists in the first edition of the Global Fashion Transparency Index. Today, a little more than half (52%) of 250 of the world’s largest fashion brands and retailers are disclosing their first-tier supplier lists (among them luxury brands).

Transparency has evolved to the point that it has become part of the identity of what it means to be luxury. When we started our work, we were told that luxury brands publishing their supplier lists was a distant dream but now, many do. Increased transparency on its own does not translate to increased sustainability, but it is a key first step.

The big fashion industry has been unregulated and for the most part, untouchable for many decades so the growth of regulation over the last 10 years has been positive.

Increased transparency on its own does not translate to increased sustainability, but it is a key first step.

As an activist and transparency campaigner, I commend the progress but remain sceptical and unsatisfied with the pace of progress. For all the good, the last decade has also given rise to even faster fashion, on-demand models, more waste and in-work poverty deepening for garment workers. Issues are still not being addressed at the root—which gives all the more reason for our movement to continue demanding justice.

 

2. Q: What role has policy played so far? 

A: The system we have today was designed to be elitist, destructive, and exploitative. It’s working entirely as it was envisioned. Therefore, voluntary schemes are ineffective at protecting the environment and the people who make our clothes. The growth of greenwashing—deliberately misleading claims to instil confidence in consumers—is an example of how the industry cannot be trusted to fix itself. A foundational step toward driving change forward is binding legislation—it is essential for accountability.

It is encouraging to see policy developments emerging globally, but in particular within the EU, which is the largest importer of textiles and has a responsibility to regulate the industry.  Some encouraging examples include the CSDDD, CSRD, EU Textile Labelling Regulation, Waste Framework Directive and Forced Labour Regulation, to name a few. Similarly, the New York Fashion Act—with New York another epicentre of global fashion—is a bold and necessary legislation to regulate the industry through due diligence requirements, climate obligations, and fines for non-compliance.

This all signals positive steps toward addressing human rights and environmental abuses. However, we hope that the EU will focus on making these legislations impactful, resulting in positive gains for the people who make our clothes, impacted communities and the planet beyond just increased disclosure and transparency for transparency’s sake.

 

3. Q: How important is the role of activists in driving change—in particular, your global network of activists?

A: Community is essential for solidarity, belonging, and recharging energy levels. Tackling the global fashion industry on your own simply isn’t possible, which makes the role of individuals—united at scale and galvanised by hope—so powerful for driving change.

Our community holds globally diverse knowledge and experience which helps sow the seeds of change and transfer ideas. It includes activists, designers, academics, makers, researchers, menders, slow fashion advocates, policy experts, and leaders of all kinds, and we have had many incredible successes over the last decade. For example, our community has campaigned for national-level fashion policies in various regions; mobilised nearly a quarter of a million signatures across the EU for our Good Clothes, Fair Pay petition; and organised hundreds (if not thousands) of events throughout the years. Whenever the global network has an opportunity to meet in person, it is an immense privilege. It is energising and affirming to share what actions we are organising and how to progress our shared goals.

 

4. Q: What are the biggest challenges facing the industry in the coming years?

A: The industry’s biggest challenge is holding a mirror up to itself. Big fashion as we know it today has been forcefully enabled through environmental destruction and keeping wages artificially low for the people who make our clothes. The fashion industry is extremely indebted to all the resources and livelihoods it sacrifices in the name of massive profits.

The climate crisis is driven by overproduction and overconsumption. We are concerned that very few brands are disclosing a commitment to producing less, and many are indicating that they are, in fact, producing more products. In some cases, brands’ scope 3 emissions have increased since their science-based targets (SBTi) were set, and some brands’ net-zero targets have been removed altogether because their progress to date shows they won’t achieve them.

The biggest challenge facing the industry in the coming years is holding a mirror up to itself.

The coming years are an opportunity for course correction. As a key driver of the climate crisis, big fashion must enable a just transition led by the needs of suppliers and workers whose voices are critical in co-creating local solutions and mitigations to climate adaptation. Just transition is more than upskilling for a green economy—it is an opportunity to redress the extreme power imbalance that led us into the intersecting climate and inequality crises in the first place.

We know that when it comes to decarbonising the fashion industry, $1 trillion is needed over the next 30 years. With rising temperatures and the accelerating occurrence of disasters, the stakes are incredibly high. Our shared future is on the line—how do you put a price tag on that?

And that’s all before we’ve even covered the issue of living wages.

 

5. Q: Absolutely. And the latest Fashion Transparency Index revealed that most brands included still aren’t doing enough to ensure living wages are paid in the supply chain. Tell us more about that.

A: Living wages are not a luxury, they are a fundamental human right. Living wages—bar nothing—is the most pressing demand for the people who make our clothes. As an example, 99% of brands we review—which represents a sizable representation of the world’s biggest and most influential brands—still do not disclose the percentage of workers in their supply chain earning a living wage. And just 2% disclose a time-bound and measurable target to achieve living wages, which signals it is not a priority.

In theory, even if a fabric is dyed without using any water, is 100% natural, made without combusting any fossil fuels, and degrades at the end of its life with no negative impact on the environment, if the person who made it is earning poverty wages, then it still isn’t sustainable.

It takes just 4 days for a fashion CEO to earn what a garment worker would earn in their entire lifetime—some of the wealthiest people on this planet are fashion CEOs. The people who make their clothes are sacrificing their precious time to subsidise billionaires’ profits.  The fight for living wages will continue.

Liv Simpliciano at the Overheated climate event.

 

6. Q: We touched on climate change, but I don’t think many people really understand how that also ties in with justice for garment workers. Can you speak to that?

A: Garment production countries are some of those most vulnerable to the climate crisis, and we have already seen increasing examples of devastating floods, fires, droughts, earthquakes and other natural disasters caused by climate change affecting the fashion supply chain. We are concerned that for many brands, the strategy appears to be to relocate and source new suppliers and nearshore production when the supply chain is disrupted by disaster—rather than supporting existing suppliers and workers and helping to mitigate and prepare for the impacts of climate change.

 

7. Q: What policy changes do you want to see in the future?

A: I want to see the implementation of binding regulations, laws and government policies that require transparency and corporate accountability on environmental and human rights issues in the global fashion industry. This should include responsible purchasing practices so that the price paid by brands to suppliers reflects the cost of sustainable production. Progress made to date is welcome, but in its current forms it fails to deliver worker justice.

I also want to see the implementation of policy that finances the green transition in garment producing countries. For too long, big fashion has dismissed production countries as sacrifice zones, which have been historically saddled with crippling debt and are now facing debt crises in addition to being more vulnerable to the climate crisis. Financial support must be prioritised to reduce greenhouse gas emissions across global supply chains, while helping garment producing countries to adapt to and mitigate the impacts of the climate crisis. Most of all, suppliers must be able directly access the financial resources they need to help them become more resilient to climate change.

 

8. Q: How do you see Fashion Revolution’s work evolving over the next decade?

A: I would like to see more alignment and integration with other movements within civil society. I think fashion (outside of my echo chamber) is still seen as frivolous and not as important of a policy issue—which, of course, works in the favour of corporate companies that do not wish to change.

However, big fashion as we know it today is made up of intersecting crises of human rights, environmental destruction, climate crisis, institutional inequality and poverty, elitism, extractivism, disenfranchisement, and racism. There is so much power and opportunity in the intersectionality of our fight and we are stronger together. I hope we can continue to work alongside policymakers and help deliver accountability and change.

Ultimately, I wish our cause didn’t have to exist, but unfortunately, the overall glacial progress we have seen on critical human rights and environmental issues in the last decade means that for the next decade, we must continue.

 

Feeling inspired to get involved?

Fashion Revolution Week 2024 runs from April 15th to April 24th, and there are lots of ways to join in the movement, including plenty of online activities for those who don’t live near planned in-person events. Find the full list here, and then get even more energised to take action by reading eight questions with Fashion Revolution’s co-founder, Orsola de Castro.

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Festival Style, Done More Sustainably https://goodonyou.eco/sustainable-festival-style-2/ Tue, 09 Apr 2024 23:33:30 +0000 https://goodonyou.eco/?p=26969 Our editors curate highly rated brands that are first assessed by our rigorous ratings system. Buying through our links may earn us a commission—supporting the work we do. Learn more.   What is festival fashion and where does it come from? And why are so many people talking about its problematic aspects? Here, we explore […]

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Our editors curate highly rated brands that are first assessed by our rigorous ratings system. Buying through our links may earn us a commission—supporting the work we do. Learn more.

 

What is festival fashion and where does it come from? And why are so many people talking about its problematic aspects? Here, we explore fast fashion’s influence, overconsumption, and cultural appropriation, plus, the brands offering more sustainable alternatives for those committed to dressing for the occasion.

What does festival fashion even mean?

Cast your mind back to one of the most famous festivals of all time—Woodstock 1969. The three-day, generation-defining event in upstate New York was immortalised in photos that have come to serve as the ultimate festival style inspiration.

Think flares, bandanas, beaded headbands, fringed jackets, crop tops, denim, crochet, swathes of tie-dye, and psychedelic prints. At the time, these styles reflected the politically charged, protest-driven hippie movement, but today they’ve trickled down to symbolise the broader genre of festival goers, and an annual summer trend.

You can see the enduring influence of Woodstock in Kate Moss’ style at Glastonbury in the early 2000s, and later, Vanessa Hudgens and the Kardashians at Coachella, who heralded a new era of celebrity and influencer-driven festival style. When Coachella kicks off the northern hemisphere’s festival season in April, brands waste no time bombarding us with festival-inspired edits, and almost always, they hark back to what people were wearing at Woodstock.

Festival style, the fast fashion way

The annual onslaught of festival edits is a striking reminder of the extent to which fast fashion encourages overconsumption and excessive production. At the time of writing, fast fashion brand Boohoo had an astounding 746 products, starting from as low as £3.00, in its “festival” category. These clothes echo the styles noted above, including flares, crop tops, crochet and psychedelic prints, only none of them are made with the peace and love ethos that Woodstock’s attendees were looking to embody when they dressed for the original event. Boohoo isn’t the only one—the likes of SHEIN, Forever 21, and Temu have festival fashion filters, categories or tags on their websites, too.

Most items from these brands are manufactured at an alarming rate with little regard for people or the planet, and are destined to fall apart before next year’s festival rolls around. And that’s another issue—the lack of longevity in these clothes means they quickly end up in landfill, and so the cycle repeats, and more ‘festival clothes’ are consumed.

Cultural appropriation in festival fashion

The clothes worn by Woodstock attendees could undoubtedly be considered culturally appropriative today—there was an abundance of prints and fabrics from India, and beaded fringed clothes, like the jacket Jimi Hendrix famously wore, which connoted Native American dress. But as festival style has become increasingly popular in the last two decades, the misuse of cultural symbols and crafts has reached new and more overt levels.

One of many examples of cultural appropriation in festival attire is feather headdresses, which have become notably associated with the trend. But this style of headwear—also called a war bonnet—holds great spiritual and political importance in several Native American communities, including Cheyenne and Lakota. For a non-Native person to wear it as costume, and at the profit of a fast fashion corporation, is considered deeply offensive and only perpetuates colonialistic and oppressive attitudes towards Native American communities.

Some organisers are taking action to limit cultural appropriation within their festivals—after a petition in 2014, Glastonbury added Native American-inspired headdresses to its list of prohibited items for traders. Another UK festival, Shambala, has issued guidance on avoiding cultural appropriation at its event, particularly concerning fashion.

And while festival attendees are more clued up about this than ever before, fast fashion brands continue to churn out appropriative styles for entertainment and dress-up purposes, with little consideration for their origins or the people they might hurt in the process. Ultra fast fashion brand Temu, for instance, currently offers Native American-inspired beaded and feathered garments as festival attire.

How to dress more sustainably for festivals

All this isn’t to say that you can’t wear a pair of flares to a festival. But it’s important to keep in mind the trend’s origins and current landscape of overconsumption and cultural appropriation. If you’re planning to attend a festival this summer or are inspired by the late 1960s aesthetic that influenced Woodstock, then there are a few ways to dress more sustainably for it.

Shop your wardrobe

First, look at what’s already in your wardrobe—are there things you can combine or customise to achieve the look you want? If you’re already a 1960s style-connoisseur then you’ll likely have some good options to choose from. If not, then don’t forget that the original festival fashion was rooted in a movement of creativity and acceptance, and while ‘60s looks still play a key role in the trend, in modern times festival style should be considered as an opportunity to mix things up and try fun—perhaps unconventional—outfits, whether they hark back to the era or not.

Find second-hand options

We highly recommend heading to second-hand and vintage shops before buying new things. This is a great option for shopping more sustainably because you’re diverting clothes from landfill and giving them a second life, but also from an all-round perspective—you’re more likely to turn up to the event in something no one else is wearing, and perhaps even something from the 1960s itself.

And remember: wherever you find your festival clothes, take care to consider the meaning of the items you wear. Ask: What is the original purpose of the item? What would it mean to take the item out of this context? Have the people whose culture from which the item originates directly benefitted from its purchase?

Buy from ‘Good’ or ‘Great’ brands

Lastly, if you do decide to buy something new, make sure that it’s from brands working in a more sustainable way than the fast fashion giants we mentioned above. Below, we’ve listed some brands rated ‘Good’ and ‘Great’ in our directory that have been popular with readers for festivals. Our suggestions include brands making durable bags that’ll hold everything you need for a day in a field, robust boots comfortable enough to stand (and dance) all day in, and items that will keep you dry if the weather takes a turn for the worst.

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Timelessness Over Trends: April’s Top Picks From the Good On You Team https://goodonyou.eco/april-2024-top-picks/ Tue, 09 Apr 2024 07:53:56 +0000 https://goodonyou.eco/?p=45839 This is a sponsored article featuring brands that have been independently assessed by our rigorous ratings system. We’re proud to only collaborate with “Good” and “Great” rated brands. Learn more.   Every month, our team puts their heads together to find the best clothes, shoes, and accessories made by responsible brands you’ll love. Here’s Good […]

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This is a sponsored article featuring brands that have been independently assessed by our rigorous ratings system. We’re proud to only collaborate with “Good” and “Great” rated brands. Learn more.

 

Every month, our team puts their heads together to find the best clothes, shoes, and accessories made by responsible brands you’ll love. Here’s Good On You’s team picks for April.

Perennially stylish and more sustainable wardrobe additions

Versatility is the name of the game when it comes to transeasonal dressing, and it’s also (somewhat unsurprisingly) the common thread running through our team’s picks this month.

No matter where they are in the world, Good On You staffers have all opted for high-quality items that can be mixed and matched with the things they already own. It speaks to the capsule wardrobe concept, which is about owning fewer things that all work well together, and therefore reducing the need to frequently buy new outfits.

So, if you’re looking for a solid trench coat to add to your collection, or perhaps an endlessly wearable polo shirt, then scroll on to find our suggestions—plus many others—from more sustainable brands.

As the leading source for sustainable fashion ratings and education, Good On You’s team is dedicated to helping consumers make better shopping choices. In this monthly roundup, our internal experts from every corner of the company (and globe) share their personal selections from “Good” and “Great” rated brands. This curated compilation spotlights products that both align with our sustainability criteria and are just great pieces we’re excited to share with you.

Why you can trust our recommendations

At Good On You, we provide trustworthy recommendations that align with your values and needs. Our mission is to simplify informed choices while embracing the “buy less, buy better” motto.

To ensure credibility, we aggregate comprehensive, transparent information on fashion sustainability—assessing brands using our leading methodology, developed by diverse experts. Our ratings directory of over 6,000 brands employs a simple five-point scale, curating a list of “Good” or “Great” brands making significant contributions to sustainable fashion.

Our editorial team, driven by expertise and passion, carefully reviews and approves each recommendation, upholding high standards of quality, longevity, and trend-transcendence.

While we recognise the value of reusing, mending, and second hand shopping, our expert ratings system guides you toward new brands aligned with your values and sustainability goals.

collage of more sustainable clothing picks

Our team’s 10 favourites this month

1. Printed Top (The Anjelms Project)

2. Matching Printed Trousers (The Anjelms Project)

3. Hara Trousers (Sukkha Citta)

4. Olivia Sweater (Santicler)

5. Flax Shirt (SeamsFriendly)

6. Denim Jumpsuit (SeamsFriendly)

7. Pin Tuck Dress (Sukkha Citta)

8. Trench Coat (Lâcher Prise)

9. Petra Polo Shirt (Opera Campi)

10. Samji Trainers (ID.EIGHT)

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8 Things to Know in Sustainable Fashion This April https://goodonyou.eco/sustainable-fashion-news-april-2024/ Tue, 02 Apr 2024 06:43:39 +0000 https://goodonyou.eco/?p=45662 Every month, the Good On You team scours the internet to find you the ethical and sustainable fashion news that matters. Here’s everything you need to know this April. In the know France’s lower house votes to limit ‘excesses’ of fast fashion with environmental surcharge (The Guardian) A string of measures backed by France’s lower […]

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Every month, the Good On You team scours the internet to find you the ethical and sustainable fashion news that matters. Here’s everything you need to know this April.

In the know

France’s lower house votes to limit ‘excesses’ of fast fashion with environmental surcharge (The Guardian)

A string of measures backed by France’s lower house of parliament could see fast fashion brands mandated to declare their environmental impact and apply a linked surcharge to every item sold. The measures, which would also limit fast fashion advertising in France, still need to be voted on by the Senate but could set a precedent for many more governments to hold the biggest fast fashion brands accountable for their actions.

 

Has Sustainability Fallen Out of Fashion? (Vogue)

Emily Chan reflects on the absence of sustainability during the autumn/winter 2024 fashion shows and questions whether it’s down to consumer disinterest, or a response to stricter regulation on sustainability claims coming into effect in the EU.

 

Rise of Fast-Fashion Shein, Temu, Roils Global Air Cargo Industry (Reuters)

The poor business practices of retailers like SHEIN and Temu aren’t just impacting the fashion industry—Reuters found that “the rapid rise of fast-fashion e-commerce retailers… is upending the global air cargo industry, as they increasingly vie for limited air-cargo space to woo consumers with rapid transit times”.

 

H&M Embraces New Venture to Buy 50% of its Recycled Polyester Supplies (Fashion United)

Fashion United reports that the H&M Group, in collaboration with Vargas Holding, has created Syre—an initiative focused on scaling up textile-to-textile recycled polyester to reach its goal of using 50% recycled materials by 2030.

 

Fashion’s Cotton Supply Chain is Broken. Will Brands Agree to Fix it? (Vogue Business)

Could a new blockchain technology change the cotton supply chain for the better? Vogue Business reports on a new initiative from Sourcery that’ll encourage farmers to track, record, and license data on their cotton, and has the potential to improve traceability throughout the supply chain.

 

Investors Push Zara Owner Inditex to Publish Full Supply Chain (Business of Fashion)

Ahead of Inditex publishing its annual results in mid-March, investors were lamenting the Zara owner’s lack of transparency around its supplier lists and locations in comparison to industry peers such as H&M and Primark.

 

Good On You Reaches Milestone 6,000 Brands Rated

In March, we revealed that Good On You has surpassed 6,000 total fashion brands rated. This is a major milestone that we’re proud to share and celebrate, as our goal is to empower consumers to make more informed choices so that we can create positive change for people, the planet, and animals.

 

‘Good’ and ‘Great’ news

Every month we publish news and product highlights from highly rated brands that have been assessed by our rigorous ratings system. Using our codes and links may earn us a commission—supporting the work we do. Learn more.

O My Bag Launches Equal Opportunities Program

Women engaging in equal opportunities training by O My Bag

Equal opportunities training by Swayam and O My Bag at its Springfield supplier

“Good”-rated O My Bag conducted its annual worker survey and found that: “Female employees have informed us that they feel like they don’t always get the same job opportunities as their male colleagues, and that they don’t always feel safe to express their ambition.” In response, the brand has created an equal opportunities program with Swayam, a Kolkata-based feminist organisation, dedicated to improving organisational structure and educating workers. Pilot training took place in February 2024 at its Springfield supplier.

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Better Brand Edit: More Sustainable Puff Sleeve Tops and Dresses https://goodonyou.eco/sustainable-puff-sleeves-dresses-tops/ Tue, 02 Apr 2024 00:00:35 +0000 https://goodonyou.eco/?p=16460 This is a sponsored article featuring brands that have been independently assessed by our rigorous ratings system. We’re proud to only collaborate with “Good” and “Great” rated brands. Learn more.   The puff sleeve became popular in the Renaissance period and though its relevance has ebbed and flowed, the style has endured for centuries. While […]

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This is a sponsored article featuring brands that have been independently assessed by our rigorous ratings system. We’re proud to only collaborate with “Good” and “Great” rated brands. Learn more.

 

The puff sleeve became popular in the Renaissance period and though its relevance has ebbed and flowed, the style has endured for centuries. While we don’t advocate following trends, we do believe in investing in clothes that align with your style, values, and personal taste. So if you’re a puff sleeve aficionado, read on to discover our favourite more sustainable styles.

The enduring statement sleeve

In recent years, the term ‘puff sleeve’ has become a catchall for various voluminous sleeve styles—from the balloon and bishop to the Juliet and leg-of-mutton, which you might’ve seen play a starring role in the 2023 film Poor Things (which is perhaps the biggest celebration of puff sleeve dresses since, well… ever).

Above all, the puff sleeve channels softness, romance and confidence, and can often elevate a look to be more impactful thanks to its striking silhouette. While the preferred sizes, shapes, fabrics, and colours have shifted over the years, the ongoing appeal of wearing a statement sleeve has not. Here, our editors have detailed their favourite puff sleeve dresses, blouses and tops from more sustainable brands.

Why you can trust our recommendations

At Good On You, our mission is to make it as easy as possible to buy products that meet your needs, from brands that live up to your expectations in relation to their environmental and social performance and how they impact animals. We also support the motto “buy less, buy better” which looks like opting for high-quality, timeless, trend-transcending pieces you need that are designed for longevity so they last for many years to come.

As ever, the most sustainable choice to make is the one already in your closet. Whether that means taking care of your clothes, getting them mended or tailored, or mixing and matching to keep things fresh. The next best option is to swap or shop second hand. But sometimes you must buy new, and that’s where our expert ratings system comes into play.

We’ve rated over 6,000 brands in an easy-to-understand five-point system, and below we have curated a list of brands rated “Good” or “Great” that are making waves in the sustainable fashion space.

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6 Newly Rated Brands to Discover in March https://goodonyou.eco/newly-rated-brands-march-2024/ Wed, 27 Mar 2024 08:05:48 +0000 https://goodonyou.eco/?p=45612 Our editors curate highly rated brands that are first assessed by our rigorous ratings system. Buying through our links may earn us a commission—supporting the work we do. Learn more.   Did you hear the good news? Good On You recently reached a milestone of 6,000 brands rated. It almost goes without saying that we’re […]

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Our editors curate highly rated brands that are first assessed by our rigorous ratings system. Buying through our links may earn us a commission—supporting the work we do. Learn more.

 

Did you hear the good news? Good On You recently reached a milestone of 6,000 brands rated. It almost goes without saying that we’re as committed as ever to championing more sustainable brands from around the world, and we’re pleased to bring you six of the newest rated ones from the last month.

Six of the best newly rated brands from March

Brand ratings are the backbone of our mission at Good On You: to make shopping your values simpler. Since 2015, we’ve been uncovering brands doing harm and highlighting those doing good for people, the planet, and animals. You can download our app or check out the directory to discover the best brands for you.

This month, we’ve got six newly rated brands that all received our “Good” rating. There’s some beautiful knitwear, underwear, pyjamas and loungewear in the list, and some brilliant examples of low waste garment design from Jaipur and Japan. Read on to discover them all.

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Why Good On You Only Uses Publicly Available Information to Rate Brands https://goodonyou.eco/publicly-available-information/ Thu, 14 Mar 2024 17:39:17 +0000 https://goodonyou.eco/?p=45443 Good On You is the world’s leading platform that rates fashion brands on their environmental and human rights track records. And importantly, our brand rating system and team of expert analysts only consider publicly available information. Why? Transparency and accountability are the short answers. Read on to find out more. There’s no way to track […]

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Good On You is the world’s leading platform that rates fashion brands on their environmental and human rights track records. And importantly, our brand rating system and team of expert analysts only consider publicly available information. Why? Transparency and accountability are the short answers. Read on to find out more.

There’s no way to track progress without transparency

Transparency is an important step to securing a better future for the fashion industry, because being as open as possible about what’s going on behind the scenes—including the extent to which important sustainability issues are being addressed—means that anyone can understand brands’ actions and hold them accountable.

Consumers have a right to know how a brand impacts the issues they care about, and it’s the reason why using only publicly available information is at the core of our methodology for rating brands on three key pillars—people, the planet, and animals.

By rating brands across up to 1,000 publicly available data points, we’re uncovering the companies that, on one end of the spectrum, do harm or don’t do enough, and on the other are showing how the industry can do better. When we give brands our two lowest ratings—”We Avoid” and “Not Good Enough”, we’re not just calling them out, we’re driving them to improve. And by consistently rating and reviewing brands, we’re motivating them to rule out harmful practices and empowering consumers to make choices with the most up-to-date information.

Gordon Renouf, CEO of Good On You says: “It should be as easy to understand how a product or brand impacts on the sustainability issues that are important to you as it is to know the price or features of a product.”

 

Holding brands accountable for their impact

Many consumers have been shocked to discover the impacts of a brand they shop from, such as the toxic chemicals workers are exposed to during viscose production, or the deadly working conditions that led to the Rana Plaza tragedy. If no one is calling for brands to share information on issues like chemical usage and garment worker safety, then it’s impossible to hold them accountable for any damage done. Equally, we want to celebrate brands that are taking positive steps, and we can only do that if the information and evidence is shared publicly.

We expect brands to fully, accurately, and consistently report on their practices to help transform the fashion industry for the better and shape regulation around critical issues, which can often involve sharing details of codes of conduct, accords they have joined or certifications they have received.

Unfortunately, there is still a long way to go in moving to a fashion industry where publicly available information is the norm. 0 of 40 of the most profitable brands received our “Great” rating, which demonstrates a complete lack of transparency and leadership from the industry’s biggest players.

Of more than 6,000 rated brands in Good On You’s directory, we found that 61% of large brands don’t disclose information about their water management, while 54% don’t share anything about their chemical usage. The situation is slightly better for environmental issues, but there’s still room for improvement—18% of large brands still do not publish details of their policies, and for small brands, that figure stands at 24%.

We expect brands to fully, accurately, and consistently report on their practices to help transform the fashion industry for the better

Another issue is highlighted by the fact that 81% of large brands with greenhouse gas emissions targets don’t state whether they are on track to meet them. Disclosure shouldn’t stop at publishing targets and policies, and to truly hold brands accountable, we need to see regularly reported information about how close they are—or aren’t—to reaching these goals.

Among several disappointing statistics from the 2023 Fashion Transparency Index are the findings that just 1% of major fashion brands disclose the number of workers in their supply chains who are paid a living wage, and that only 7% of major brands publish test results for hazardous chemicals in their suppliers’ wastewater.

Publishing sustainability information isn’t without its obstacles for brands, as Good On You’s ratings analyst Jessica Ouano explains. “Some large brands [have] mentioned to us that they aren’t disclosing information on all their sustainability initiatives because they need approvals internally to disclose everything. I understand that can make it more challenging,” she says.

“Despite that, we strongly believe that it is important for brands to be transparent since it encourages accountability. It also allows consumers and stakeholders connected to a brand to call them out when the information they do share about their initiatives is misleading or incorrect. I would think that is one of the reasons why larger brands are more careful with disclosing information.”

 

Small brands can rarely share the same information as large ones

It is undoubtedly more difficult for small brands to harness the levels of insight and influence over their sustainability issues than it is for large brands, which often have more finances, connections, and resources to aid reporting. We consider this in our ratings methodology, which distinguishes large and small brands according to the European Commission’s definition using the brand’s (or its parent company’s) annual turnover. As such, we rate large brands differently to small ones to account for the limitations and nuances that many small brands face, and the expectation that large companies should publish more in-depth information—particularly on policies and targets.

We also offer guidance on better sustainability communication for small businesses if they are concerned about their rating. Mostly, this comes down to being current, specific and honest in the information they publish, and in addressing the issues with the biggest impact first.

 

What if a brand isn’t doing enough, or isn’t publishing any data?

It’s better for a brand to explain where it is falling short rather than gloss over it and potentially mislead shoppers into believing that action is being taken behind the scenes.

If our ratings analysts find that a brand isn’t publishing any information on its practices, then we highlight that in our directory and app to help you understand when brands simply aren’t being transparent or detailed about their actions.

Ultimately, our mission is to encourage the industry to improve its practices and disclose them, so we are working towards a process that lets brands know we’re preparing to rate them. We’ll also give an indication as to what kind of disclosure and practices we’ll be looking for across our three pillars—people, the planet, and animals so they are able to make any information public that they do have.

 

We need greater transparency to tackle greenwashing

Greenwashing happens when brands hide the truth about their practices and don’t give specifics, instead offering a few sentences or sweeping statements on their general commitment to sustainability. If they aren’t challenged on that or pushed to do better then nothing changes, and the industry doesn’t move towards a more positive future where brands are taking real and effective action to minimise their impacts.

And then there is so-called greenhushing—a move from some brands to say nothing at all about their impacts in an effort to avoid being called out for not doing enough, accused of greenwashing, or falling foul of the increasing sustainability regulations from governing bodies around the world.

But removing all publicly available sustainability information isn’t the answer—in fact, it’s a huge step backwards for the industry as a whole. Sandra Capponi, Good On You’s co-founder, says: “Full transparency may not be easy for an industry with complex supply chains, but it’s really the bare minimum we should expect. Consistency in data and disclosure is critical to consumers’ ability to make informed decisions.”

That’s why we’ll never compromise on only using data in our ratings process that brands make available for all to see, and we’ll keep pushing them to be as comprehensive as possible in their disclosure.

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The Biggest Red Flags in Sustainability Reports—and How to Spot Them https://goodonyou.eco/red-flags-in-sustainability-reports/ Wed, 13 Mar 2024 09:42:18 +0000 https://goodonyou.eco/?p=45187 Ever opened up a brand’s sustainability report and been completely overwhelmed? You’re not the only one. We asked our ratings analysts to debunk the most common issues they find in sustainability reports (and they read a lot of them).   So you’ve looked through our ratings directory and read our guides on living wages, fair […]

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Ever opened up a brand’s sustainability report and been completely overwhelmed? You’re not the only one. We asked our ratings analysts to debunk the most common issues they find in sustainability reports (and they read a lot of them).

 

So you’ve looked through our ratings directory and read our guides on living wages, fair trade, and lower impact materials. Now you’re seeking out a brand’s sustainability report or webpage to dive deep into its impact—and that’s where things can get confusing.

What are sustainability reports?

Mounting consumer and governmental pressure means that lots of fashion brands are reporting on their sustainability targets and disclosing the impact their current practices have.

For example, European Union rules currently require all large and listed companies to report on the risks and opportunities that emerge from their impacts on social and environmental issues. More companies will soon be expected to do the same due to a new EU directive coming into effect for reports published in 2025, which will also require companies to report on a specific set of issues. This directive could also eliminate some of the red flags we’re seeing in sustainability reports at the moment. But since there’s currently no specific format for how the information should be presented, it’s all too easy for reports to lack substance.

And while there are some proposed reporting formats for companies to follow, the lack of harmony amongst them makes it difficult for readers to compare multiple reports.

Reading sustainability reports is one aspect of Good On You’s ratings process because we only use publicly available information to determine how a brand scores against our methodology. Brand disclosure is one of the many publicly available sources of data we use, which also includes the most robust third party indices (like the Fashion Transparency Index, and the CDP’s Climate Change and Water Security projects), as well as certifications and accreditations (like Fairtrade, Fair Wear Foundation, Cradle to Cradle, OEKO-TEX Made in Green, the Global Organic Textile Standard, and the Responsible Wool Standard). Our How We Rate page has more information about this process.

In other words, after rating more than 6,000 brands, our expert team of analysts has read a huge number of sustainability reports. They can confidently say what makes a good—or bad—one.

Who better, then, to help us understand this complicated world of epic word counts, dubious claims, and weird graphs? Here, Good On You’s Kate Hobson-Lloyd, fashion ratings manager, and ratings analysts Noriko Kakue and Katelin Opferkuch, have shared the best practices to look out for, plus their biggest pet peeves.

What are the most common red flags?

Sustainability reports that miss the mark can generate mistrust and mislead people to believe that a brand aligns with their values, so spotting problems within reports is key.

Hobson-Lloyd notes that one of the frequent issues our ratings analysts see in reports is: “Lots of targets for the future but little evidence of the actions a brand is currently taking—this is common, particularly in relation to material usage.” Here are a few more:

  • Targets for “net zero carbon emissions by 20xx”. Usually, these claims are made by big companies that, instead of taking meaningful action to reduce emissions, pay for carbon offsets—which are often questionable programs that don’t have the impact they promise.
  • More words than numbers. If brands are doing something good and want to showcase that effort, they will disclose the number or statistic, and how it has improved over a period of time.
  • Large chunks of reports dedicated to listing the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and their focus points without clear explanations as to how the brand’s actions support them. It is important to check if the brand has specific initiatives aimed at those focus points. Many of the colourful visuals of SDGs are used to fill the pages—a practice dubbed ‘SDG-washing’.
  • Information about a brand’s direct operations but not its supply chains—especially if the report bangs on about, say, coffee cup recycling in its offices but doesn’t provide information on supply chain waste, for example.
  • The really big problem in too many reports from the biggest fashion brands: a failure to clearly define a brand’s key actions.

Opferkuch—a specialist in sustainability reporting who completed a PhD on the subject, says: “A weak sustainability report is a reflection of weak internal sustainability integration, such as strategic management processes, goal development, resource allocation, change management, implementation, monitoring, communication and much more. But sustainability reports, and the process required to collect data for them, can be a huge driver for companies to improve their sustainability integration overall.”

What makes a good report?

On a more positive note, there are lots of great reports out there: “We collect good examples of disclosure and reporting,” notes Kakue. She and Hobson-Lloyd explain that the best reports:

  • Are well structured into categories.
  • Contain clear and concise statements outlining a brand’s current actions and its progress to meeting targets—even if it is not on track to meet the target. This is especially important if a brand has set targets around, for example, greenhouse gas emissions or hazardous chemical elimination.
  • Include clear data on material usage and any certifications involved.
  • Have clear definitions of various stages of the supply chain and actions taken at each stage, plus details and locations of suppliers.
  • Aren’t ridiculously long. Shorter reports filled with concise and clear points are more meaningful because they’re more digestible and accessible to a variety of readers, including customers, regulators and stakeholders.
  • Have clear presentation and definition of any certifications the brand works with, such as GOTS or Fair Trade.

As you can see, great sustainability reports are clear and include accurate information that is backed by evidence—even if a company still has a way to go in improving its practices. If your favourite brand’s reporting isn’t up to scratch, then why not reach out to them and ask them to do better? After all, the more a brand realises that customers value better transparency, the greater its impetus to change will be.

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Are the Biggest Denim Brands Sustainable? We Rated Them All to Find Out https://goodonyou.eco/are-the-biggest-denim-brands-sustainable/ Thu, 07 Mar 2024 10:18:51 +0000 https://goodonyou.eco/?p=45280 Denim is a notoriously unsustainable and polluting industry, but are any brands making efforts to change? Here, we examine data from Good On You’s ratings to find out which brands are making more responsible jeans, and which ones still need a nudge in the right direction. Why is denim unsustainable? Before we get to which […]

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Denim is a notoriously unsustainable and polluting industry, but are any brands making efforts to change? Here, we examine data from Good On You’s ratings to find out which brands are making more responsible jeans, and which ones still need a nudge in the right direction.

Why is denim unsustainable?

Before we get to which brands are doing the best (and worst), it’s important to understand the biggest sustainability challenges facing the denim world today.

As an industry rooted in making durable garments, denim ought to have some good sustainability credentials, right? Unfortunately, factors such as fast fashion and overconsumption have led to denim having an appalling track record for its impact on the environment, the workers in its supply chain, and on animals, too.

Some of the most common sustainability issues within the modern denim industry are water usage—the exact statistics for this vary depending on the source, but back in 2015, Levi’s noted that 3,781 litres of water were used in the production of a single pair of its 501 jeans. There is also the use and mismanagement of chemical dyes for achieving the fabric’s signature indigo colour (or, for natural indigo dye, the resources involved in growing the plant at scale); challenges in recycling blended yarns used to make denim; and a take-make-waste business model that deprioritises the repairs and garment care that would extend the life of many denim items.

Are denim brands actually doing anything about these issues? We’ve reviewed Good On You’s ratings of the largest denim brands today to find out and, well, the answers aren’t pretty.

The largest denim brands are (mostly) the worst

At the time of writing, most of the world’s largest denim producers—which dominate a significant portion of the industry’s supply chains—are still failing people, the planet, and animals. Our ratings are scored across a five-point scale, ranging from “We Avoid” through to “Great”, and unfortunately almost all of these denim brands received our two lowest ratings. Take a look below:

And when you consider just how many people on the planet wear jeans on a daily basis—and how many of those might’ve been made by the companies listed above—it’s not hard to understand how the industry has ended up in such a sorry state.

The exception to this is Levi’s, which receives our middling “It’s A Start” rating. But is Levi’s sustainable? In our most recent rating review, we found that the brand is taking some positive steps. It has implemented a biodiversity policy, and recycles fabric offcuts, but despite calls, it still hasn’t joined the Pakistan Safety Accord, and it still uses leather and wool in its clothes. This rating signifies a step in the right direction, but there is still work to be done.

Levi’s is perhaps the best known denim company in the world, and to see that is moving forward—albeit slowly—could help to encourage other brands to do the same.

What are the best sustainable denim brands?

The reality is that those with the most power to change the denim industry aren’t pulling their weight, and while that might seem a little bleak, there is hope. Below, we’ve listed some of the denim brands rated “Good” and “Great” against our world-leading methodology, that are doing the work to foster a more sustainable denim industry.

The post Are the Biggest Denim Brands Sustainable? We Rated Them All to Find Out appeared first on Good On You.

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Buy Well, Buy Once: February’s Top Picks From the Good On You Team https://goodonyou.eco/team-picks-february-2024/ Wed, 14 Feb 2024 23:00:23 +0000 https://goodonyou.eco/?p=44632 This is a sponsored article featuring brands that have been independently assessed by our rigorous ratings system. We’re proud to only collaborate with “Good” and “Great” rated brands. Learn more.   Every month, our team puts their heads together to find the best clothes, shoes, and accessories made by responsible brands you’ll love. Here’s Good […]

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This is a sponsored article featuring brands that have been independently assessed by our rigorous ratings system. We’re proud to only collaborate with “Good” and “Great” rated brands. Learn more.

 

Every month, our team puts their heads together to find the best clothes, shoes, and accessories made by responsible brands you’ll love. Here’s Good On You’s team picks for February.

Buy less, buy better

Phew—we made it through January. How are those new year’s resolutions going? The Good On You team is not ashamed to say that some of ours have fizzled out already, but one thing that remains steadfast is our commitment to only buying things we truly need. For our Northern hemisphere team, that means high quality, more sustainable knitwear, because it has been positively Arctic. Meanwhile, at our Sydney, Australia HQ, Good On You staff have been seeking comfort as they ease into the year.

As the leading source for sustainable fashion ratings and education, Good On You’s team is dedicated to helping consumers make better shopping choices. In this monthly roundup, our internal experts from every corner of the company (and globe) share their personal selections from “Good” and “Great” rated brands. This curated compilation spotlights products that both align with our sustainability criteria and are just great pieces we’re excited to share with you.

Why you can trust our recommendations

At Good On You, we provide trustworthy recommendations that align with your values and needs. Our mission is to simplify informed choices while embracing the “buy less, buy better” motto.

To ensure credibility, we aggregate comprehensive, transparent information on fashion sustainability—assessing brands using our leading methodology, developed by diverse experts. Our ratings directory of over 5,000 brands employs a simple five-point scale, curating a list of “Good” or “Great” brands making significant contributions to sustainable fashion.

Our editorial team, driven by expertise and passion, carefully reviews and approves each recommendation, upholding high standards of quality, longevity, and trend-transcendence.

While we recognise the value of reusing, mending, and second hand shopping, our expert ratings system guides you toward new brands aligned with your values and sustainability goals.

Our team’s 10 favourites this month

Collage with sustainable clothing

1. GOTS-Certified Knit Trousers (Lanius)

2. GOTS-Certified Knit Sweater (Lanius)

3. Silk Triangle Bra (Herth)

4. Cycling Shorts (Organique)

I’ve been looking for some new shorts for working out in and these from Organique are ideal.

5. Addison Knotted Tote Bag (Able Clothing)

6. ABCs Long-Sleeved T-Shirt (Kotn)

7. Berlino Vegan Corduroy Bucket Hat (Noah)

8. Wool Fringe Scarf (Cossac)

With the Nordic-feeling cold snap in London, I'm crushing on this fuzzy scarf.

9. Shebang Toiletry Bag (Torrain)

10. Limited-Edition Shirt (I was a Sari)

 

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